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I'm painting my frame! Any tips or suggestions?

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Don't say don't cause I've already started sanding. Lol. So long story short my wife's friend was riding my bike, needless to say I learned a very expensive lesson. Don't let any one ride your bike. The bottom end bearing failed, maybe do to wear or the guy having it pinned in 5th. Any ways now that I'm done crying about to you guys. I'm in the process if rebuilding it and I figured since I have it all tore down now would be the time to paint it. Do to the fact that he hasn't given me any compensation and having to purchase a new case I'm a little short on funds so powder coat is unfortunately not a option so I'm rattle caning it.

If you guy have any tips or suggestions I would greatly appreciate it. Oh and thanks guys for letting me vent.

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if u can afford it hose the rattle can with a 2 part clear urethane  it will make it solvent/fuel resistant

 

heck I have even painted PWC exteriors like that with good result  and   they always have fuel spills when fueling  LOL

 

 

oh and I would stay with the oem color if I weren't sandblasting

Edited by Zimman
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if u can afford it hose the rattle can with a 2 part clear urethane it will make it solvent/fuel resistant

heck I have even painted PWC exteriors like that with good result and they always have fuel spills when fueling LOL

oh and I would stay with the oem color if I weren't sandblasting

Sorry for my ignorance but what is a 2 part urethane?

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Powdercoat only!!!! And stick with the color black, goes good with all the bike schemes and its best for resale.

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Assuming it's a steel frame, you'll need to buy some plastic frame guards or the paint will not last long rubbing against your boots.

 

99D79166.jpg

They used to come in black but I couldn't find any so now I have a black frame with blue guards. It still looks good but not perfect.

I think silver would look best with or without guards.

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Don't say don't cause I've already started sanding. Lol. So long story short my wife's friend was riding my bike, needless to say I learned a very expensive lesson. Don't let any one ride your bike. The bottom end bearing failed, maybe do to wear or the guy having it pinned in 5th. Any ways now that I'm done crying about to you guys. I'm in the process if rebuilding it and I figured since I have it all tore down now would be the time to paint it. Do to the fact that he hasn't given me any compensation and having to purchase a new case I'm a little short on funds so powder coat is unfortunately not a option so I'm rattle caning it.

If you guy have any tips or suggestions I would greatly appreciate it. Oh and thanks guys for letting me vent.[/quote

And another question should I strip the frame down or just ruff up the paint?

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Don't say don't cause I've already started sanding. Lol. So long story short my wife's friend was riding my bike, needless to say I learned a very expensive lesson. Don't let any one ride your bike. The bottom end bearing failed, maybe do to wear or the guy having it pinned in 5th. Any ways now that I'm done crying about to you guys. I'm in the process if rebuilding it and I figured since I have it all tore down now would be the time to paint it. Do to the fact that he hasn't given me any compensation and having to purchase a new case I'm a little short on funds so powder coat is unfortunately not a option so I'm rattle caning it.

If you guy have any tips or suggestions I would greatly appreciate it. Oh and thanks guys for letting me vent.[/quote

And another question should I strip the frame down or just ruff up the paint?

if you wanna do it right, disassemble the whole bike, soda blast the frame, have someone powdercoat it. it really is the best way, if you are. painted many a frame and they dont last for shit.

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No need to strip. I media blasted mine(black diamond) just to ruff it all up the easy way. Then prime and paint and clear coat following the directions on the cans.

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Best way is powdercoat, but

Yamaha blue isnt likely a color

they can do.

Scuff / lightly beadblast the original

paint, but dont go to bare metal.

Then a spray can works well

to make it look new, but is'nt as durable

as powdercoat, so frame gaurds are

a must, as mentioned above.

A buddy just did his frame with

car paint that a local shop matched

to the Yamaha blue color, and put

in spray cans, for $20 per can

...needed 2 cans to get proper

coverage.

...will post the paint formula / brand

here tomorw, when i find one

of the empty cans.

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Best way is powdercoat, but

Yamaha blue isnt likely a color

they can do.

Scuff / lightly beadblast the original

paint, but dont go to bare metal.

Then a spray can works well

to make it look new, but is'nt as durable

as powdercoat, so frame gaurds are

a must, as mentioned above.

A buddy just did his frame with

car paint that a local shop matched

to the Yamaha blue color, and put

in spray cans, for $20 per can

...needed 2 cans to get proper

coverage.

...will post the paint formula / brand

here tomorw, when i find one

of the empty cans.

I sanded the frame to ruff up the paint and surprisingly enough I found a paint that is pretty damn close. I plan to do 3 coats primer and three coats paint then 3 coats paint but what I'm curious to know how is your buddy's paint holding up? I was planing to use this engine high temp enamel in hopes that it will hold up better. I found the paint at Lowe's. let me know if you have any suggestions.

Edited by Cody2322

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This is the laquer paint formula

...they took a '91 subframe

to the paint shop, and

couldnt tell the difference,

in sunlight, or the shop lights

Looks awesome, but definatly

needs a hard clearcoat to make

it durable

Was $20 per can for the paint

shop to mix the paint and put

in an aerosol spray can

image.jpg

Edited by yamaha7442

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I had the 04' sandblasted and powdercoated an aluminum color and it looks great! Only $100.00 total.

Edited by dogfish

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Paint shops can mix 1 part paints in rattle cans to match your original paint color or give you watever paint color you want.  It WILL NOT hold up to sunlight.  No 1-part paint does.  It will look ok for a year or so then fade.  But... there is hope.  There is a 2-part clear urethane clear coat available in a rattle can called Clear2k by Spraymax.  http://www.spraymax.com/index.php?id=361&L=1  This should give you at least a 5 year paint job and is very resistant to abrasion and chipping.  It will still wear through where your boots are but frame guards will fix that.  I used it to do my 1987 CR 250 back in 2008 and its still holding up along with the Omni paint listed above.

Edited by 1987CR250R

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I have had a few steel frames powdercoated in the past and i would say its not worth the money. PC is not 100% chemical resistant and if you don't run frame guards your boots will still rub the coating off the sides. I would say painting and frame guards is your best bet. The paint isn't going to last that long, but if you ride 2-3 times a week [like me] then PC isn't going to last an entire season before looking like crap anyway.

 

Seriously though, when i think of all the mods I have done to bikes over the years, PC a frame pisses me off the most. It was a total waste of money. All my buddies told me PC was the way to go and for 200 bucks I was assured that the coating would be tough and not wear off, but it only lasted 4 or 5 months. Then i had a different company re coat the bike because i thought the original coating was done wrong. NOPE, the second coat job lasted the same amount of time. Then one night i left a rag soaked in brake cleaner draped over the frame, the next day i was left with a permanent brown spot on my silver frame.

 

If the color is going to only last me a year i would rather just repaint the frame every winter....Plus for me painting is way cheaper.

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