Which oil is better?

Sorry, i'm not looking to start another oil thread, but which of these two oils is better? I need to do an oil change on my 2012 crf250r.

 

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Are they motorcycle specific oils ?

No but they were cheap.

Sorry, i'm not looking to start another oil thread, but which of these two oils is better? I need to do an oil change on my 2012 crf250r.

 

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I used supertech 10w-40 for 2 stroke transmission oil and my crf transmission.Its very good oil for the clutch. For my crf engine I used rotella 15-40 or supertech 20w -50.

No but they were cheap.

 

 

i wish i could pay william shatner to beat the dumb out of some people.

Well it is 2years old so why buy good oil?

I would say super tech.

Because if you use good oil the bike might last 2 more years, use Honda Oil, and change the filter out.

Just use Honda GN4 10-40. It's $22 a gallon probably not much more than either of those a gallon.

shell rotella T6 full synthetic both sides, or shell rotella triple protection both sides, or in clutch side and a nicer T6 in engine side.

 

5 gallon pails of it at walmart for 70$. Anything more than the cheaper rotella triple protection 15w40 in the transmission side is overkill

 

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Shell Rotella "Synthetic" is NOT synthetic at all. They "synthesize" an additive package, add it to some dino oil and call it a synthetic. Kinda deceiving...

Edited by Eddie8v

i wish i could pay william shatner to beat the dumb out of some people.

Shatner is too fat and old to even beat himself!

Shell Rotella "Synthetic" is NOT synthetic at all. They "synthesize" an additive package, add it to some dino oil and call it a synthetic. Kinda deceiving...

is it still worth changing to instead of the basic rotella?

I am not saying it's a bad oil, it's just not a synthetic. Many on here have had great luck with it so I am sure you'll be fine using it. I prefer a full genuine synthetic in the engine-side, but the rotellas are good in the trans. I don't know if it can be used in the trans side as it has additives to make the oil "slippery" by reducing friction, but your clutch plates use friction to funtion. Check the circular rating label on the back, if it says "energy conserving" anywhere in the circular thingy you should not use the oil in a wet-clutch application.

I am not saying it's a bad oil, it's just not a synthetic. Many on here have had great luck with it so I am sure you'll be fine using it. I prefer a full genuine synthetic in the engine-side, but the rotellas are good in the trans. I don't know if it can be used in the trans side as it has additives to make the oil "slippery" by reducing friction, but your clutch plates use friction to funtion. Check the circular rating label on the back, if it says "energy conserving" anywhere in the circular thingy you should not use the oil in a wet-clutch application.

 

 

alright maybe ill just stick to the basic rotella. I need to keep thick oil to get my the rest of the year on my 2012. 72 hours of c class racing with oil changed every 3 hours along with hiflofiltro oil filters and air filter every day of riding. Im seeing gold dust like particles in the engine oil then a couple bigger pieces which really scares me. I keep pulling the oil filter apart to check for shavings and still havent seen anything on the filter.

Sure sounds like the inevitable crank thrust washer failure is near. I would use full synthetic, you need all the help you can get. And be careful and forewarned that you could have a failure at any moment.

If you've never changed the piston, now's a good time to do so in order to check the condition of the crank, rod, bearings and thrust washers.

Edited by Eddie8v

Sure sounds like the inevitable crank thrust washer failure is near. I would use full synthetic, you need all the help you can get. And be careful and forewarned that you could have a failure at any moment. If you've never changed the piston, now's a good time to do so in order to check the condition of the crank, rod, bearings and thrust washers.

 

i installed a 13:5:1 cp piston at 50 hours and there was no up and down and i checked the side to side play with a feeler gauge and it was well within spec. Currently at 72 hours like i mentioned.

Edited by tvalliere220

28 hours is a long time ago.

28 hours is a long time ago.

22 hours actually i messed up and fixed it i ment 72 but we will see how it goes if i start seeing a huge jump in gold maybe ill throw it aside and try racing the ol 97 cr250

So this thread was actually meant kind of as a joke for the general section, to break up all the oil seriousness, but it appears that someone has moved my thread.

I've actually been doing a bit of testing with different cheap oils for the clutch side of my engine.

I have tried:

Various fancy clutch specific fluids

Valvoline 10-40 motorcycle oil

Autozone ATF type f

Autozone ATF dexron

Ace hardware brand straight 30 motor oil

Rotella T 15-40

Rotella T6 5-40

Rotella T6 15-40

7-eleven brand 10-40

Supertech 10-40

I'm not really finished with my testing yet, however I have already come to some startling conclusions.

The best clutch feel comes from the straight 30 weight, however it drags very badly, you can feel a reduction in power. Shifting is not as smooth.

The best performance, smooth shifting came from ATF, it is very thin, but the clutch felt awful, very grabby.

Surprisingly, the best overall has been the super tech! It shifts great, the clutch feels great, and on top of that, once my bike is hot,I can consistently start my bike in gear. No other oil has allowed me to start my CRF in gear.

the supertech did very well in the yamaha, too. We just don't use the 10/40 but a bit heavier diesel 15/40. the 20/50 supertech worked very well also and stayed in grade as well as some of the much more expensive 20/50's.

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