93 XR250L Started Fine but now Won't Start

[biker128pedal]

I have a stock 1993 XR250L with 8,000 miles I bought a month ago. My son and I have since put 500 mile son it. When we got it it was hard to start when hot so I changed the stock jets out as most recommend. No. 40 and No. 125. Did not shim the needle. Could not figure out how to adjust the all plastic float. Adjusted the piot screw for optimum idle. It ended up 2-1/4 turns out. Ran great. Started first or second kick. So I decided to take out the snorkle and out a 1/4 inch mesh screen over the inlet. Started and ran well last Saturday morning. Not real seat of the pants difference. Did the throttle chop on the way down the road home and coast to the driveway. Check the plug. Very light tan color. Started good. Let it sit for 5 hours while I ran some erands and that evening pulled the plug to look in the cylinder with a bore scope for kicks. Looked OK. The carbon on the exhaust valves did not look bad. Looked like asome excess was coming off. Then cold it won't start. Plug has spark. Still got a new NGK DPR8Z plug. Still no start and plug is damp. So I checked the valves and the compression release. All to manual specs. Pulled the carb and check it. Looked good but may have high float level.

Anybody know what the float level is supposed to be? Got any suggestoins for starting. I put the snorkle back on. I've tried push starting it without any luck. Not even a pop. Like there is not spark but there is a spark or no fule but there is fuel. I shut off the fuel and kicked for 30 minutes and not a pop.

Tried starter fluid and no luck. Put the filter back in and maybe a pop with the choke off.

Any help appriciated. I jsut hope I did ot burn a valve when I pulled the snorkle.

Edited September 15, 2013 by biker128pedal

[XRMarc]

Maybe it is flooded.  Turn off gas.  Drain float bowl.  There is a screw on the left of carb.  Turn on gas and choke and kick.  Don't apply throttle.

[Oil Baron]

It is possible to install the float upside down on these which stops the flow of gas.  The float is not adjustable and very expensive to replace.

 

Try three turns out on the fuel screw with a #40.  DO NOT TWIST THE THROTTLE as this squirts gas into the intake each time you twist and easily floods the bike.  The bike should start on the first kick almost every time with a #40.  

 

Fresh gas? 

 

If it gets flooded, open the throttle all the way and hold it open with choke off.  Kick several times to dry out cylinder.

[XRMarc]

If it gets flooded, open the throttle all the way and hold it open with choke off.  Kick several times to dry out cylinder.

 

Do you turn off the gas first?

[Oil Baron]

Do you turn off the gas first?

You could do that if it's flooded.  If the float needle is working properly and you didn't tip the bike over, it should not be necessary.  I leave mine on all the time unless I'm way out in the sticks overnight.

[jg83]

I have a 1991 250L and sometimes when the weather is warm and the bike is cold it is a little finicky to start, this is the only time I have trouble starting the bike. When the ambient air is warm it will not start with the choke on, but when you unchoke it you loose the high idle, so it usually takes a little while to get the bike started and warmed up. XRs are cold natured bikes and will sputter and die until you build up some heat in the motor. When it is warm outside and the bike is cold here is the procedure that works for me.

 

1. choke off

2. 2 twists on the throttle to squirt a little fuel in the chamber.

3. find TDC

4. Hold the throttle at 1/4 open

5. Kick

 

Most of the time it will fire up.

If you continue to have problems I would drain the tank and put fresh gas in. I would also put the airbox back the way it was when running. You may also want to loosen the auto decompression I think it can cause problems with starting, you don't have to remove it just loosen it up to where it has no effect its not really needed on a 250cc.

Edited September 17, 2013 by jg83

[biker128pedal]

I think I figured it out. The spark through me off. I checked the coil. I was good on the primary but not the secondary. Infinite resistance to the plug cap. To the wire is good so the cap is bad. Not bad enough to show a spark outside the cylinder. So off to see if the shop an hour away has a NGK cap that will fit. I'll post which one if they have it as I could not find anyone using anything other than the Race caps. And no part number listed.

Edited September 21, 2013 by biker128pedal

[biker128pedal]

Nope did not work. I am using a DPR8Z and ran it and 60 mph for some time. Will that hurt it? I think I should be using a DPR9Z.

I have not checked the compression. With low compression will it exhibit these symptoms? I also took off the compression release cable to disable this. I weight 200 pounds and don't see any difference. I think I may have cooked something.:huh

Edited September 21, 2013 by biker128pedal

[biker128pedal]

It's alive. It started. I pulled the spark arrester clean out cover and after 8 kicks with the choke off and 1/4 throttle it fired. A few pumps of the throttle and more kicks and it started. I warmed it up and adjusted the pilot screw. So far it starts hot. I did notice when kicking while hot it seems like the compression is better.

But I think the spark arrester got clogged and then I broke the cap.

[twr7cx]

Some good ideas in these threads:

 

https://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/834485-2000-honda-xr250r-not-starting-ignition-related-issue/

 

https://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/890579-20000-xr250r-doesnt-kick-start-but-can-roll-start/

 

https://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/916815-2000-xr250r-rebuilt-top-end-doesnt-start-still/

[biker128pedal]

Seem to run well now but the charging system reads plus 14 volts at idle then drops off with the revs.  I checked the regulator rectifier with my meter.  The Green (- probe) to R/W (+ probe) are infinity and supposed to be 0.1 to 2.  Black  (-) to Green (+) is a reading of 473 and is supposed to be infinity.  Green to Yellow the yellows are also infinity and supposed to be 0.5 to 10.

 

Looks like it is bad if I checked it correctly.  Wonder if anyone has used a Ricks?  $80 more for OEM but few available.

[twr7cx]

Wonder if anyone has used a Ricks?  $80 more for OEM but few available.

Are you talking about a Ricks Motorsport Hot Shot CDI, if so, I use one on mine - https://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1047486-243hp-modified-xr250r/

[biker128pedal]

Not the CDI.  Did not know Ricsk made one.  The Regulator Rectifier Part Number 10-153 for a replacement.  I tested mine per the manual but had my cheap VOM.  I think my readings have to be divided by 100. 

 

I looked at your XR250R.  Nice setup.  How is the fuel consumption?

[Oil Baron]

Seem to run well now but the charging system reads plus 14 volts at idle then drops off with the revs.  I checked the regulator rectifier with my meter.  The Green (- probe) to R/W (+ probe) are infinity and supposed to be 0.1 to 2.  Black  (-) to Green (+) is a reading of 473 and is supposed to be infinity.  Green to Yellow the yellows are also infinity and supposed to be 0.5 to 10.

 

Looks like it is bad if I checked it correctly.  Wonder if anyone has used a Ricks?  $80 more for OEM but few available.

 

A wide variety of three phase street bike reg/recs will work on this bike.  The black wire is unnecessary and the oem part is older technology if you can find one.  I would stick with Shindengen though.  I replaced mine with an SH640-12.  After slightly elongating the two holes with a dremel, it bolted right on and has worked perfectly for 2,000 miles.

[biker128pedal]

A wide variety of three phase street bike reg/recs will work on this bike.  The black wire is unnecessary and the oem part is older technology if you can find one.  I would stick with Shindengen though.  I replaced mine with an SH640-12.  After slightly elongating the two holes with a dremel, it bolted right on and has worked perfectly for 2,000 miles.

I got a SH233 to try.  I am not sure it will work as the Yamaha as an excited magnet.

 

How did you wire the SH640-12?  Ihave one off an EX500.  I got +50V out of the red white wire.

Edited September 23, 2013 by biker128pedal

[biker128pedal]

Update on the 1993 XR250L.  No choke helped but the battery had to be charges up.  Now its starts first or second kick.  So the battery was bad.  It is a NAPA and looks fairly new but I don't know as it came with the bike.  With the old battery I was getting a little over 13V at idle and it dropped with RPM.  With a new YUSA battery I get 14.7 volts at idle and 14.3 volts at high RPM.  Is this correct?  The manual says the voltage should be between 14.7 and 15.1.  What do others get?  I bought a used regulator rectifier and get a little less. 

 

I bought a Rick's Motorsport Electrics.  I have not installed it yet because it is huge.  It will just barely physically fit but the mounting holes don't line up.  I may be able to bend the bracket to make it fit or make an adapter plate.  The box says  it has internal voltage control between 14.5 to 14.8 volts.  The size I understand but the female bullet type ground wire connector is too large.  I will get in touch with Rick's but while I wait has anyone installed one of these on an XR250L?  Here are a few pictures.

Connector Issue

Compare size and fit.  This wil be fun

Bracket

 

Last it does starts very easy now.  I removed the compression cable.  I weigh 200 pounds.  I guess if you weigh 100 pound it would be hard to start.

Edited October 4, 2013 by biker128pedal

[biker128pedal]

Well with the new battery it appears to be charging. It still charges 14.7 volts at idle. Then 14.2 volts running and then this rose to 14.5 volts after 30 minutes of riding. So it appears OK but I think I'll still install the new Regulator rectifier.

[Oil Baron]

I got a SH233 to try.  I am not sure it will work as the Yamaha as an excited magnet.

 

How did you wire the SH640-12?  Ihave one off an EX500.  I got +50V out of the red white wire.

 

I'm sorry it took so long to get back to you.  

 

I cut the connectors/wires off the original regulator and soldered them onto the new one.  

 

I read 12.9 volts with the engine off, 13.6 at a low idle, and 13.7 max with engine revved.  These are good numbers that won't fry your battery but will keep it fully charged.  These voltages are the same after 2500 miles. I took these readings at the AGM battery terminals with everything connected.

Edited October 8, 2013 by Baja Rambler

[honda roboxl]

Where are the voltages taken? At the battery? I don't like taking a voltage reading from a connector. I like to take it from the battery post itself. Rules out voltage drop in connectors.

 

I 100% agree about removing the 'bullet connectors' and soldering in a connection if done right.

 

(this caught my eye-been off the forum for a bit... not trolling)

[biker128pedal]

I took the voltage at the battery. Its working well now. With the cooler weather I needed 1/4 choke. Rain through the weekend so on to the next thing to break.

Edited October 12, 2013 by biker128pedal