clutch rod stuck in mainshaft..HELP ME!

My clutch lifter rod is stuck in the mainshaft and will NOT come out on my 2007 CRF450R. Have tried using vice grips on it to pull it out. Wont budge.

I had needle nose vice grips on it while I was tapping it with a hammer. There is a little "cap" on each side of the rod, and the side that was BARELY exposed was what I had the vice grips clamped on to.

That "cap" ended up popping off 0_o now the rod cannot be grabbed with anything. I know these rods should just come right out. im assuming it is bent?

Do I have to split the cases now? Are the cases going to be next to impossible to split with that rod bent? I have the engine out of the bike now because I believe I have to split the cases now. But I figured I would get on this handy website and ask ;D

 

PS: I just got the bike from a private owner. I test rode it and it rode fine. Was doing some motos in the backyard and the clutch cable fell out of the guide in the handle. I then noticed that there was the fine clutch cable adjustment missing, and the reverse thread thing that goes under it. I purchased those then after I installed those pieces I then noticed that those parts made the clutch cable not have ANY freeplay. So I purchased a new clutch cable. Was installing the clutch cable when I then noticed that the clutch arm that the cable goes into was not at the angle that it should be. It wasn't straight, it was pointing about 45 degrees towards the rear wheel. I then decided to look at the clutch itself. unfortunately everything as trash. basket had groves in it, plates were too thin ect.

I have purchased all of the new clutch components. I jus cant install them because I am not able to get the lifter rod out.

PLEASE HELPPPP!

If the rod has welded itself into the main shaft you are probably going to need a mainshaft or a correct sized reamer to refinish the hole.  The new mainshaft is more likely less than the reamer they run around $100.  This will give you a chance to inspect the other bushings on the mainshaft.  It sounds like the bike was run without oil.  You cannot disassemble the bike with the rod in place so you will most likely have to grind the head off of it.

Edited by 1987CR250R

 As near as I can see there is no reason you cannot split the cases with the clutch push rod in the main shaft.cheers

 As near as I can see there is no reason you cannot split the cases with the clutch push rod in the main shaft.cheers

 

 

I was thinking the nut would not clear the head of the pusher but I may be wrong.  Once the cases are split you will be able to hammer everything out from ther side but again the bearing surfaces within the shaft may be damaged.

Edited by 1987CR250R

 As near as I can see there is no reason you cannot split the cases with the clutch push rod in the main shaft.cheers

 

 

Today I am going to start pulling things off apart to split the cases. Is a flywheel holder necessary? Case splitter necessary ($200 :/)? Also, im guessing it is recommended to replace everything when the cases are split, but if you cant afford the $400 rebuild kit would you just not rebuild it, or wait until you have the extra $400? Do I need a tool to put the head back on? I've never done this big of a job, but cant wait to get my hands dirty!

My clutch lifter rod is stuck in the mainshaft and will NOT come out on my 2007 CRF450R. Have tried using vice grips on it to pull it out. Wont budge.

I had needle nose vice grips on it while I was tapping it with a hammer. There is a little "cap" on each side of the rod, and the side that was BARELY exposed was what I had the vice grips clamped on to.

That "cap" ended up popping off 0_o now the rod cannot be grabbed with anything. I know these rods should just come right out. im assuming it is bent?

Do I have to split the cases now? Are the cases going to be next to impossible to split with that rod bent? I have the engine out of the bike now because I believe I have to split the cases now. But I figured I would get on this handy website and ask ;D

 

PS: I just got the bike from a private owner. I test rode it and it rode fine. Was doing some motos in the backyard and the clutch cable fell out of the guide in the handle. I then noticed that there was the fine clutch cable adjustment missing, and the reverse thread thing that goes under it. I purchased those then after I installed those pieces I then noticed that those parts made the clutch cable not have ANY freeplay. So I purchased a new clutch cable. Was installing the clutch cable when I then noticed that the clutch arm that the cable goes into was not at the angle that it should be. It wasn't straight, it was pointing about 45 degrees towards the rear wheel. I then decided to look at the clutch itself. unfortunately everything as trash. basket had groves in it, plates were too thin ect.

I have purchased all of the new clutch components. I jus cant install them because I am not able to get the lifter rod out.

PLEASE HELPPPP!

 

 

The newer (FI) bikes have a removable brass bushing inside the main shaft. Yours should be the same. 

Once you have the main shaft out of the cases, you should be able to see it on the small bearing end of the shaft.

You should be able to drive it out, or drill it out if it's seized in place. 

The bad part is that it seems the bushing is not available from Honda. You might need to buy the shaft.

Or if your handy make one.

The Rod is a straight shaft with no ends, nubs or protrusions is it not See first image part#10?  your clutch lifter lever has a scooped structure in the shaft that levers on the rod and pushes it out  see third image part #6.  Sounds to me like this is grabbing the rod, or the shaft is bent.  If the shaft is bent then it would likely not protrude out the center of the hole in the main shaft.  If ithe rod can be turned it would scribe a small circle in the air at its end if it was bent.  If you need to split the cases you should get a flywheel puller $12, Clutch holder $16.00 (Impact wrench works too),  case splitter 60.00 and crank puller/installer 60.00.  I can save you about 25 bucks of Rockymountain atv if you like, PM me.  Then of course you will need seals, and gaskets and a tough stomach to handle what ever else you may find worn LOL.  Also be careful pulling the crank in and out, you can mis-align it very easily and make sure it centers up when you install it.  Just did the bottom on My RMZ450 and the tusk complete gasket kit had everything for 30 bucks-ish.  I thought they were very good quality, but have not tested them under running conditions yet.

 

Can you put a Die on the end of the rod and thread it (clutch center removed)? and then use a pipe and washer to pull it out.  This may leave bits of rod behind With the clutch center removed you may be able to shine a bright light into the mainshaft hole??  .  Were you able to remove the Clutch lifter lever?  Does it move at all (this is important)?

 

BTW, go for the case split.  I like to use a story board made from a piece of 2x10 or 2x12, to store my bolts and small engine parts on.  Its a tiny bit more work but making it slows you down and gives the brain time to think between stages.   Also its totally..er nearly  kid proof, and if you drill the holes the right size it acts as a thread cleaner too! 

 

I think the split should work with the shaft in place, since I think its binding with the lifter lever (left side) and you split from the left (pretty sure).  the main shaft and rest of tranny and shift forks will remain with right case... or should.  Assembly of the case proceeds with pulling (not hitting) the crank in from the left (mag side), putting the tranny and forks in the left side, and then putting on the right case over the whole lot and pressing the case into the crank using the crank puller installer.  This is a stress full procedure for the uninitiated as the crank likes to pop loudly as its fitting on the bearings (this typically happens in several small stages), and you need to make sure the main, and counter shafts fit into their respective places, along with the shift fork shafts.  REally sounds complicated but its not!!

 

Other posters here please feel free to put your two cents worth against my opinion here.  Us couch mechanics can't see it all and are only guessing to a large extent.

 

 

Clucth lifter rod.jpgPicture.jpgClucth lifter lever.jpg

Edited by bikedad1

The Rod is a straight shaft with no ends, nubs or protrusions is it not See first image part#10?  your clutch lifter lever has a scooped structure in the shaft that levers on the rod and pushes it out  see third image part #6.  Sounds to me like this is grabbing the rod, or the shaft is bent.  If the shaft is bent then it would likely not protrude out the center of the hole in the main shaft.  If ithe rod can be turned it would scribe a small circle in the air at its end if it was bent.  If you need to split the cases you should get a flywheel puller $12, Clutch holder $16.00 (Impact wrench works too),  case splitter 60.00 and crank puller/installer 60.00.  I can save you about 25 bucks of Rockymountain atv if you like, PM me.  Then of course you will need seals, and gaskets and a tough stomach to handle what ever else you may find worn LOL.  Also be careful pulling the crank in and out, you can mis-align it very easily and make sure it centers up when you install it.  Just did the bottom on My RMZ450 and the tusk complete gasket kit had everything for 30 bucks-ish.  I thought they were very good quality, but have not tested them under running conditions yet.

 

Can you put a Die on the end of the rod and thread it (clutch center removed)? and then use a pipe and washer to pull it out.  This may leave bits of rod behind With the clutch center removed you may be able to shine a bright light into the mainshaft hole??  .  Were you able to remove the Clutch lifter lever?  Does it move at all (this is important)?

 

BTW, go for the case split.  I like to use a story board made from a piece of 2x10 or 2x12, to store my bolts and small engine parts on.  Its a tiny bit more work but making it slows you down and gives the brain time to think between stages.   Also its totally..er nearly  kid proof, and if you drill the holes the right size it acts as a thread cleaner too! 

 

I think the split should work with the shaft in place, since I think its binding with the lifter lever (left side) and you split from the left (pretty sure).  the main shaft and rest of tranny and shift forks will remain with right case... or should.  Assembly of the case proceeds with pulling (not hitting) the crank in from the left (mag side), putting the tranny and forks in the left side, and then putting on the right case over the whole lot and pressing the case into the crank using the crank puller installer.  This is a stress full procedure for the uninitiated as the crank likes to pop loudly as its fitting on the bearings (this typically happens in several small stages), and you need to make sure the main, and counter shafts fit into their respective places, along with the shift fork shafts.  REally sounds complicated but its not!!

 

Other posters here please feel free to put your two cents worth against my opinion here.  Us couch mechanics can't see it all and are only guessing to a large extent.

 

 

attachicon.gifClucth lifter rod.jpgattachicon.gifPicture.jpgattachicon.gifClucth lifter lever.jpg

The rod appears to be that way. but after 25min of tapping the vice that is clamped on to the end of the rod the little end piece will pop off.  The rod in the pic is the new rod. If you look closely in the pic, the rod has a little line going around it towards the end of each side. That is what popped off4d3a9358-6052-4e1e-92d8-b45dc92e9ffd_zps

 

 

 

The arm came right out. BUT when the arm is in the position is was on the bike, the rod will not budge. What I mean by that is whenever the arm is lifted out of the engine I can put my magnet on a stick on the rod and pull/push the rod. and the rod will go in/out about 1/2 an inch. Here's a pic of the arm in the engine when the rod does not budge.

 

450clutch005_zps4d8ebd52.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Heres a pic of the rod that is stuck in my 450 :lame:

 

03e3ab9d-d873-49ca-a564-3267e1f664dd_zps

 

 

 

 

 

I can spin the rod in circle whenever I have my magnet attached to it. I have shined a light in the mainshaft hole and could not see anything out of the ordinary. I could see all the way down it. I do not have a tap and die set so I have not tried that idea yet. Are there certain pics that could help you help me? please let me know!

Thanks a ton! Cant wait to hear back!

Make them less blurry!, or are my eyes getting worse since this morning (50-years old).  did you try wiggling the clutch lifter lever?  My vote is that it has grabbed the rod!

 

Or... the rod likely slides through a hole in the case, to hold it in the right position to nestle inside the notch on the lifter lever.  The rod has some how mushroomed out on the end and will not pull through the hole????  What happens if you tap the end of the rod, does it move or otherwise contact the liter lever.  again does the lifter lever move, you should be able to slide it out, once the rod end is no longer nestled in the notch located on the lower part of its shaft.

Edited by bikedad1

Sorry you did say the shift lever came out.  Can you shine a light in the countershaft hole and look through the clutch lifter lever hole?  You may be able to see the end of the rod that way.  I think you got some mushrooms in thier!  There is usually a small bearing that the lifter lever shaft rotates in.  carefull not to damage that if you dig around in thier.  I can smell a case split comming on, but don't give up quite yet.  maybee you will get lucky!

 

really stretching here, but if the end of the rod can pop off and is not threadded on, can you use a thinner rod inserted through the the hole in the push rod and pop the other end off.  You may then free the push rod and be able to use a magnet or wire with sticky stuff on it to pull the nub out through the shift lever hole.  If your feel this operation is likely to exceed several hours (lol) with and uncertain outcome, then perhaps its time to dive in and split the cases?

 

Common guys help us out here!

Edited by bikedad1

I would have to agree that the end might be mushroomed. That rod must be aftermarket since its hollow. I own a 06, and a 08 model and the rods are solid.

I had that problem on my cr about 8 yrs ago while swapping clutch parts. The rod wore(old) a small burred groove. I assume from being stationary slightly while the clutch is engaged with pressure on it. Years of wear. I tried the same things to remove it. I had a buddy that had the same problem that showed me. Carefully weld to the tip a threaded rod or something to get more grip on it. Mine only took 5 sec with the welder. Slide type hammer it off or just pull. Mine came with a good yank!!

Basically we just touched the mig welder with a little wire feed at the joint of the threaded rod and clutch rod and it was enough to extract it.

I just got a 450r plated but have not opened it up yet. I'm assuming that rod is steel. Shouldn't be soft metal. Hopefully not titanium. Hope this helps. Good luck, that problem drove me nuts for 3 days!!!

Ill try to find that piece and take a picture. Saved my ass from a split.

In absence of a welder, drill a hole through the rod, thread wire, wind around a hammer and give a few easy and many tugs??  Probably have to start the pilot hole with a dremmel bit? Anyone know what the aluminum structure looks like that may be holding the end of that rod.  anyone with a split case of this vintage that can take a photo of where the rod slides into the right case?  Likely you may loose the end in the process but I don't think it would fall into the tranny since the counter shaft likely goes clean through the tranny cavity.

I had that problem on my cr about 8 yrs ago while swapping clutch parts. The rod wore(old) a small burred groove. I assume from being stationary slightly while the clutch is engaged with pressure on it. Years of wear. I tried the same things to remove it. I had a buddy that had the same problem that showed me. Carefully weld to the tip a threaded rod or something to get more grip on it. Mine only took 5 sec with the welder. Slide type hammer it off or just pull. Mine came with a good yank!!

Basically we just touched the mig welder with a little wire feed at the joint of the threaded rod and clutch rod and it was enough to extract it.

I just got a 450r plated but have not opened it up yet. I'm assuming that rod is steel. Shouldn't be soft metal. Hopefully not titanium. Hope this helps. Good luck, that problem drove me nuts for 3 days!!!

As a matter of fact it sure does look like I have a burr down in there. If I push the rod in as far as itll go, the burred grove is about a 1/2 inch from the end that is stuck inside. Im actually working at an aluminum welding shop right now. They have 1 welder setup for steel. So you think I should tac an "all thread" rod to the end of the clutch rod? Then fight with it for a few min?

Yeah if it's a burr or slight bend, a threaded rod will do. We had drilled a steel plate, attached it to the rod with nuts and washers. Below the attached plate we had a piece to slide into the plate. Well I probably didn't need a "slide hammer" or the threaded rod as it came out with a little wrestling after the weld. But instead of finding out I needed a little force and slide hammer action, I just welded the rod to the end just in case. Hey good luck and let us know if it works. You'll be the 5 person.

clutchsolved010_zps1a5330f9.jpgGOT IT OUT!!!! :jawdrop:

Got a friend to weld the "all thread" rod to the end of the clutch rod. With a few hits of the homemade slide hammer it gave way! Made the hammer from a swingarm spacer, a big/thick washer, another smaller washer, and 2 nuts at the end :goofy:

clutchsolved009_zpsc5994ae4.jpg

clutchsolved006_zps7c9c16bd.jpg

Thank you all for your help and time! Much appreciated! Yall all helped me save my hard earned $$! With that keeping a happy girlfriend ;p :ride:

Do yourself a favor and pull the clutch actuator arm out and look at the cutaway on it that supposed to move the arm back and forth. Ive had a shit ton of these engines apart and for the life of me I cant see how that would get stuck, ever unless something very odd was happening.

 

LIke maybe the actuator arm spring had rotated the arm all the way around so the opposite edge was grabbing the hardened tip of the push rod and simply rotating that lever would have freed the rod up.... :doh:

Stop It !  LOL.   LOL LOL

 

Finding a needle in a hay stack is really simple..... once you know where it is!

Edited by bikedad1

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