2011 kx250f major engine mods..need advice

[Dragon67]

I have the idle screw about 3 full turns out. I am going to try turning it out more next time I start it. I'll check the header nuts!

 

As for the comment about the 2013 kx250f, I would have gladly bought a 2013 but I did not have $6000 to spend on a bike. I bought this 11 of mine for 3 and bought a pro circuit head for $750. I built this bike on a budget and it is everything I could ever want in a bike. I have considered the option of the 2013 but this is how things worked out.

I meant clicks out. I'll check mine to see if we are in the same neighborhood. I have $6000 to spend on a bike, and my 11 will be with us for at least another season. Maybe two. Fantastic bike.

[Dragon67]

Oh yes, and I did have to turn the idle up a couple clicks after the last new piston went in. Just remembered.

[croos247]

I meant clicks out. I'll check mine to see if we are in the same neighborhood. I have $6000 to spend on a bike, and my 11 will be with us for at least another season. Maybe two. Fantastic bike.

 

good to hear that there is more believers in the 11 i was 10 clicks out. Let me know how many clicks you have.

[Dragon67]

good to hear that there is more believers in the 11 i was 10 clicks out. Let me know how many clicks you have.

Lol 38. I think we solved this one!

[croos247]

LOL i'll crank her up and see how it goes!

[croos247]

Lol 38. I think we solved this one!

Okay, so I cranked it up and started it. Right around 40 clicks and it started a lot easier. It idled well then I gave it a little gas and the rpms went up and seemed to stay their for awhile then they settled down. I ran the bike for about 4 minutes then shut it off. There was a good amount of coolant coming out of the overflow also, any ideas?

[Dragon67]

Yup, totally normal for the coolant. They get hot quick. I put a high pressure cap on.

You'll have to dial in your idle after break in. Let it warm up, take the high idle off, turn the knob in a click at a time till it dies, then come back 2 or 3 clicks.

Just don't let it sit and idle for more than a couple minutes.

Keep asking if you have questions.

Edited October 11, 2013 by Dragon67

[croos247]

Alright I let the bike warm up for about 2 minutes the first time then let it cool and then 4 minutes another time. I think I am going to do 1 more heat cycle and then head out for a 10-15 minute ride with heavy engine breaking, staying off the rev limiter while varying the throttle.

[Dragon67]

Alright I let the bike warm up for about 2 minutes the first time then let it cool and then 4 minutes another time. I think I am going to do 1 more heat cycle and then head out for a 10-15 minute ride with heavy engine breaking, staying off the rev limiter while varying the throttle.

I don't know who said heavy engine braking, but I'll read back to look. Just never heard that before. We do the 3 or so heat cycles then ride the thing 1/2 throttle around the track for a while. Then it's go time! Anyway, be careful!!

dmm said engine braking. Do it. And wear a helmet every time you get on that bike.

Edited October 11, 2013 by Dragon67

[croos247]

I don't know who said heavy engine braking, but I'll read back to look. Just never heard that before. We do the 3 or so heat cycles then ride the thing 1/2 throttle around the track for a while. Then it's go time! Anyway, be careful!!

Alright, I'll do 2 more heat cycles and then an easy ride with half throttle. I'll keep you posted! ?

[Dragon67]

Alright, I'll do 2 more heat cycles and then an easy ride with half throttle. I'll keep you posted! ?

Read above my edited post.

[croos247]

Okay, sounds good! As for helmets, Ide never ride without one. Safety first!!!

[croos247]

So far I have done a 2 minute heat cycle, a 5 minute, and another 5 minute heat cycle and the bike is running great, the Rekluse clutch appears to be working and it is idling very well. I think I'll get a high pressure radiator cap to prevent boil over however! Should I go with CV4, Tusk, or Mylers? Also, do you think I am ready for a light test ride?

[Shawn250]

I run my bikes in on the first test ride, you shouldn't need a higher pressure cap unless you doing really technical stuff.

[croos247]

Alright guys, I ran my bike and everything worked great! It was leaking a little oil from somewhere (I think the stator cover gasket). I will determine if this is correct this weekend. I can notice a bit of a power change with the 2012 EFI, but I think a remap will help more than anything. Anybody out there know how to use the remapping software?

[dmm698]

Alright guys, I ran my bike and everything worked great! It was leaking a little oil from somewhere (I think the stator cover gasket). I will determine if this is correct this weekend. I can notice a bit of a power change with the 2012 EFI, but I think a remap will help more than anything. Anybody out there know how to use the remapping software?

drzAdam on here did my remap. The reason for wanting the engine breaking is you want to really put a load on the motor to seat the rings. Probably wont be as effective after numerous heat cycles but everybody does their own thing, just saying what works for me. I run a moose 1.6 bar cap, any of them will work. Typically just buy moose for bolt on stuff because its usually re-labeled name brand parts for cheaper. I haven't played with the kawi' mapping at all, have done some pretty extensive stuff with Bombardiers setup with a power commander that has more options than the average consumer one. I've got access to a dyno but it would be hard to retrofit a land and sea dyno to accept a bike. Honestly I think it would be hard to "tune" a bike on a dyno anyways without being able to test it after each change.  I was/am really happy with the setup I got from adam.

 

For what its worth without seeing the kawi software i'm sure its similiar to most, shouldnt be to difficult to figure out. I'm in the middle of running a full fuel/ignition system (ms3Pro) for our team sled and the tuning capabilities are pretty endless while being relatively easy to understand/figure out.

Edited October 29, 2013 by dmm698

[Dragon67]

Here is a link to Drzadam's profile so you can PM him about a remap. https://www.thumpertalk.com/user/176830-drzadam/

You could buy your own software, but I think Adam would be much more cost effective and he has lots of experience with your setup, as does dmm. Keep us posted. I may ship my ECU off as well.

Dmm, any insight as to the general things he did to improve the map for your dual FI 11?

[croos247]

Thanks for the info guys, I will message drzadam later this week. I have already purchased the programming software, I am going to tinker with some of the settings this weekend and see what works for me. I found the software relatively cheap on Ebay.

[Dragon67]

Thanks for the info guys, I will message drzadam later this week. I have already purchased the programming software, I am going to tinker with some of the settings this weekend and see what works for me. I found the software relatively cheap on Ebay.

 

Well then, do keep us in the loop!

[croos247]

Well guys, I got on the gas after jumping a table top on my back yard track and I heard 2 loud clicks. I looked down and oil and coolant were spilling everywhere. The crank snapped….looks like my riding days are over for awhile. Thanks for the help and support everyone, maybe I'll get it right next time.