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06 CRF250R randomly shut down on me


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Video 

 

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0wDB5MuHfCw

 

 

Bike would not restart after this

 

1. has spark

2. is getting fuel

3. intake valves were tight, left side tighter than right - reshimmed to .005

4. Bike still would not start. 

 

We pulled head and performed leak test on valves, left side leaked, right side sealed. Also found chain tensioner spring tab to be broken

 

left side valve has noticeable carbon build up, right side is clean

 

null_zps9915ba22.jpg

 

 

thoughts? 

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

rebuilt the head with new valves (ss), seals, springs and new head gasket. 

 

reassembled everything, valves are in spec intake =.006 exhaust is .011

 

Bike still will not start.

 

Cleaned carb and three jets, plug is wet and has spark. 

 

Bike still will not start, not even a pop or fire. 

 

any ideas? 

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Cleaned everything up, new gasket on stator cover.. Reassembled.. Will not start.. 1 backfire after a bunch of Kicks and throttle swtists.

Has compression

Has nice blue spark on every kick

Plug is wet after kicks

... Carb and jets are clean.. However choke will not stay open now if I give it a throttle twist.

Any ideas? I'm friggen stumped.

Edited by lucrestyle
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How did you verify the timing?

Took off cam.. Reinstalled, realigned primary gear to top dead centre on arrow, aligned cam sprocket marks which are in align with head. Cam loabs are facing rearwards.

I rebuilt this engine including new crank, piston, rings and all gaskets and seals 10 hrs ago. Has run flawless since.

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That's not the most accurate way to time the cam to the crank, you should use the left-side flywheel plug/window to check the marks on the crank to verify & validate the crank is absolutely at TDC, then check the cam alignment to the head. Try it, don't cost nuthin'.

Edited by Eddie8v
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That's not the most accurate way to time the cam to the crank, you should use the flywheel plug windo to check the marks on the crank to verify & validate TDC, then check the cam alignment to the head. Try it, don't cost nuthin'.

Will do, it ran great before.. Are you thinking the flywheel key moved and allowed flywheel to turn 180?

Thanks for the help

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I thought you rebuilt the head, installed it, and it wouldn't start. What does it matter how it ran before all that? You could be off one tooth on the chain.

And stop worrying about your flywheel key, for now. We need data. And I assume you properly keyed and installed the flywheel to the proper torque. If you installed your flywheel off-time you could damage something just by kickstarting it.

Edited by Eddie8v
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I thought you rebuilt the head, installed it, and it wouldn't start. What does it matter how it ran before all that? You could be off one tooth on the chain.And stop worrying about your flywheel key, for now. We need data. And I assume you properly keyed and installed the flywheel to the proper torque. If you installed your flywheel odd-time you could damage something just by kickstarting it.

Checked the flywheel marks and they didn't line up with the notch on the window.

The flywheel had rotated, I pulled it off to find a sheared woodruff key.

4CD2A66C-D5E1-43A4-B772-A23EF6AD0D37-697

053C28F9-E416-4A02-884F-8DB24847DD31-697

I'm 100% sure this is the problem, thanks for all the help and remember to check the flywheel timing if you ever experience a random shut down or similar.

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yeah i wanted to finish this topic in case anyone else comes across it in the future, it may be a good one to add to the FAQ. 

 

In regards to the torque specs, when i rebuilt the engine I did everything to spec, I did not add any thread locker to the threads. I don't think it calls for it, however when i re-installed i added a little blue. Should give me a little insurance. 

 

to sum things up.. if you CRF won't start.. you have an issue.. start at the top (valves) and work your way down.. you will find the problem. My bike starts 1-3rd kick EVERY TIME NOW just as it did before. 

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