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Clutch lifespan

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Hi  Guys,

 

I was just curious what the average clutch life is on a DRZ.

 

Mine definitely isn't slipping  yet, but I do  feel as though  it doesn't bite as hard as it once did.

 

My bike currently has 7300 miles on it, and I assume the OEM clutch.

 

Any input would be greatly appreciated!  Maybe I just need to tighten up my cable a bit?

 

Thanks!

 

:ride:

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I changed mine out at 7000kms(4349miles) it wasn't slipping yet according to my butt meter but the dyno showed a 5 hp loss. I did a check of the plates and found that my fiber plates were at the lower limit.this was probally caused by doing 3rd gear wheelies all the time

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Got over 40K on mine

Life depends entirely on the amount of abuse it gets

The more you slip the clutch, the hotter it gets and the oil burns onto the face of the cork plates, and eventually it will start to slip or the steels will warp from the heat

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so do you guys think a little tightening up on the cable would do me some good?  i certainly don't beat on my clutch by any means.  ive never launched my bike or done a wheelie, im pretty much still a noob on my bike.  I go very easy on it.  it just doesn't seem like when i shift it bites into gear super hard.

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so do you guys think a little tightening up on the cable would do me some good?  i certainly don't beat on my clutch by any means.  ive never launched my bike or done a wheelie, im pretty much still a noob on my bike.  I go very easy on it.  it just doesn't seem like when i shift it bites into gear super hard.

 

 

you don't tighten or loosen the cable, you adjust it so it's not dragging the plates, or slipping when released. there isn't much leeway here, it -will- burn a clutch quickly if improperly adjusted. 

 

 

mine = original with 28000 miles, 50% dirt 50% street

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you don't tighten or loosen the cable, you adjust it so it's not dragging the plates, or slipping when released. there isn't much leeway here, it -will- burn a clutch quickly if improperly adjusted. 

 

 

mine = original with 28000 miles, 50% dirt 50% street

 

 

hmmm, that's good  to know...haha.  i suppose i won't touch the lever adjuster then!

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hmmm, that's good  to know...haha.  i suppose i won't touch the lever adjuster then!

 

 

sorry, i wasn't clear... 

 

adjusting for free play, and ensuring the clutch is completely engaged (not allowing slippage) is important. if the cable has a little tension on it when the lever is released, it will slip, with or without you noticing. 

 

a quick and easy way to test is to line up against a tree/wall and shift to 5th, then let out the clutch slower than you would leaving a stop sign. if it stalls immediately, good. if it whines, then stalls slowly, it's not right. 

 

we're not abusing the clutch here, we're checking to make sure the cable is moving freely, the endplay is adequate, and the plates are engaging thoroughly. do it on a warm bike. 

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sorry, i wasn't clear... 

 

adjusting for free play, and ensuring the clutch is completely engaged (not allowing slippage) is important. if the cable has a little tension on it when the lever is released, it will slip, with or without you noticing. 

 

a quick and easy way to test is to line up against a tree/wall and shift to 5th, then let out the clutch slower than you would leaving a stop sign. if it stalls immediately, good. if it whines, then stalls slowly, it's not right. 

 

we're not abusing the clutch here, we're checking to make sure the cable is moving freely, the endplay is adequate, and the plates are engaging thoroughly. do it on a warm bike. 

 

 

hey thanks man, i will try that out when i get home, i have a nice cabinet 2x4 right inside the garage i can try it out on real quick.

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I changed mine at around 10,000 just because I was in there adding a kickstart, not much wear probably 1/3 gone. Could have saved them but changed just because it was open.

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