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2012 RMZ450 build from stock to full on race bike.

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Might not be in the owners manual but should be in the service manual. I would read the entire section dealing with the rear end, sometimes info is kinda hidden in strange little sequences.  

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Anyone know what the rear wheel offset is? I can't find it in the manual anywhere.

It's not in the manual and I didn't measure when I took my wheels apart. Just used an indicator set from hub sprocket surface to the center of the rim.

If you already have the wheels apart, just lace the new rims up, throw them on the bike, and center them the best you can. There is typically a +/-2mm tolerance in wheel true which isn't hard to hit with even a tape measure.

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OMA District X

http://omxa.net/schedule/overall-2013-schedule/

I plan on racing the 2 stroke class, +25 and maybe open B if I can get myself in shape to ride 6 motos in a weekend. I'll be racing "most" of these events.

May try to qualify for Lorretta's for the first time if I can swing the cash to go. Couldn't afford it in the past so I never even bothered qualifying since they don't award points for those rounds.

If you go to Loretta's let me know,that's my old home ground.Great place.

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If you go to Loretta's let me know,that's my old home ground.Great place.

I hope I can qualify... I have a lot of work to do this spring though. I didn't do much serious riding last year due to injuries and moving to the 4 stroke was a bumpy road coming off the 250 smoker.

 

However I am in better shape than I was last year, and have been focusing on my cardio. I need to lose about 10-20 more lbs and I think I will be ready to put in the work and get my speed back this season. Last season after I hurt my knee I was so afraid to jump that I wouldn't even hit the simplest of jumps as can be seen in my videos and it messed my whole flow up so I really struggled towards the end of the season. I have my work cut out for me but the 450 will help with that. Once I get the confidence to jump again and get over my fear of crashing... I think everything else will come back quickly. 

Edited by BDubb106
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Might not be in the owners manual but should be in the service manual. I would read the entire section dealing with the rear end, sometimes info is kinda hidden in strange little sequences.  

 

 

It's not in the manual and I didn't measure when I took my wheels apart. Just used an indicator set from hub sprocket surface to the center of the rim.

If you already have the wheels apart, just lace the new rims up, throw them on the bike, and center them the best you can. There is typically a +/-2mm tolerance in wheel true which isn't hard to hit with even a tape measure.

Thanks guys... I'll be lacing them up this weekend if I get my hubs back today... they should be pretty sick. Best part is that I will have the stock wheels as spares. 

 

Scored a set of stock hubs with fresh bearings on ebay for $50. Having them turned, polished, and anodized as we speak. May even do the spare set if I have the money laying around.

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Thanks guys... I'll be lacing them up this weekend if I get my hubs back today... they should be pretty sick. Best part is that I will have the stock wheels as spares. 

 

Scored a set of stock hubs with fresh bearings on ebay for $50. Having them turned, polished, and anodized as we speak. May even do the spare set if I have the money laying around.

 

Nice! I scored a set of stock hubs and a front Galfer oversized rotor kit for $130. I'm going to have them turned and powdercoated a candy blue and mount some A60s on them....

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Tell me where you find these little piles of money just laying around. Please! :thumbsup: 

Buddy is doing the work for me... only cost me the price of the hubs and rims

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And it begins... temps are finally warm enough to tolerate. Wheels coming off as we speak (I need the rim locks until I can pick up some new ones), hoping to have the new wheels done by the end of the day today and more parts will be in this week.

 

1656385_10152209884067559_1310757086_n.jpg

 

Anyone need a Yosh header? ;)

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trick build Brian. Go with the Talon rim locks if you are so inclined. Nice pieces and functional, even though they are hidden away in a tire.

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Titanium...

 

1622013_10152211671362559_1655646883_n.jpg\

 

Got a nice little care package from AJ today!  :banana:

 

Up next... coolant hoses! 

 

Not quite done with the wheels yet... having trouble getting the front trued so I tore it back down to start over. Will post pics when they are done.

Edited by BDubb106
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I can't wait to see this bike in action Brian, liking this whole thing and having fun watching the progress. Happy for ya!

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Me either man, I just want to ride it so I can get some my final tuning done. So much money invested to have it sitting in the garage for so long because of weather. 

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I will soon... going with red/carbon hubs and red or black nipples.

 

I went for the Red on my 250X. Had Black on my Beta and have Black on my RM125 as well. IMO, Red is the go :thumbsup: .

 

I'm going for the Gold/Carbon Hubs, Black rims and Gold nipples on my RMZ :cool: .

 

I see you use the ASV levers, as do I. Have you tried the Pro Taper clutch? I like the "on the fly"  adjustability in the ASV's but other than that I'm not overly Impressed. 

 

007-2_zps4caf482d.jpg

Edited by AddictedToBling
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trick build Brian. Go with the Talon rim locks if you are so inclined. Nice pieces and functional, even though they are hidden away in a tire.

 

 

Just go Tu-Bliss. they come with billet rim locks, easier to fit and change tires, less spinning mass, etc, etc, etc. I have only positive things to say about them. IMO, there are no negatives.

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