So originally this bike is meant to run 20:1 mix. So says the manual. Stock carb comes with a 175 main jet, and a 60 slow/pilot. Needle on the 3rd grove (middle of the 5). Bike was junk when i got her so i rebuilt everything and went for 32:1 from the get go. Needless to say that 32:1 made the bike run absurdly rich (more fuel to oil that goes past jet). I was running with the air screw out till it almost fell out and still it was bogging under a good bit f throttle. So finally I bought 170 and 165 main jets (for safe measure i thought) and a 58 pilot. Switched in the 58 pilot and the 170main. Turned the air screw to 1.5turns out from closed (cw = richer, ccw = leaner). Tuned a bit, still had to turn the air screw out some and that ran way better but still bogged and smokked (signs of running rich) a bit near/at WOT. Response was greatly improved. Kept the 58 (idled well still and good response in the 0-30ish % throttle). Switched down to a 165. Reset air screw to 1.5 turns out from closed and Bazzzing! I'll ride it this weekend and tune it a bit. I have a butt feeling i'll drop the needle one grove (2nd from the top, leans out top end) and its all air screw from that point on. Anyways, if you have this old bike i hope this helps... Even as a really good starting point: Bike has probably 6hours on a fresh engine replated and all. Atmospheric conditions here are 300ft and 72deg, low humidity but not dry cause i'm close to the ocean. 165 Main, 58 Pilot, 1.5turns air screw, 2nd grove from top on needle. I'm sure this jet sizes will fit a wide range of height and temperature.. If anything you'll need to go leaner for altitude and warmer weather. With winter coming soon i think the 165 would still do a good job, maybe need the air screw turned in a bit and the needle raised. Anyways the stock carb settings just don't play with 32:1, much less 40:1 if you do plan to run that. Sharing some stoke good night!