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Warning horn/beep when key is on and engine off


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The "kill" switch is for emergency shut down.  Stop using it and use the key.  Stop killing the motor with the clutch, use the key.

 

What you are asking is possible but is going to take more electronic trickery than I posses.

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The "kill" switch is for emergency shut down.  Stop using it and use the key.  Stop killing the motor with the clutch, use the key.

 

What you are asking is possible but is going to take more electronic trickery than I posses.

 

in my opinion not necessarily only for emergency use... it allows you to shut the engine down without removing your hand from the handle bar... and it will not harm the bike at all to shut the bike down this way... just get into the habit of hitting the button and with your right hand instantly reach over and switch the key to off... 

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This shouldn't be too difficult to wire up. A simple 12v NC relay, a small buzzer and some wire is all you need. Use your keyed (switched) 12v as your source power and the 12v leg coming of the stator as the signal wire. When the key is in the on position and the bike is not running the NC relay will send power to the buzzer. When the bike it's running, the stator will send the 12v signal to open the relay stopping the buzzer.

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This shouldn't be too difficult to wire up. A simple 12v NC relay, a small buzzer and some wire is all you need. Use your keyed (switched) 12v as your source power and the 12v leg coming of the stator as the signal wire. When the key is in the on position and the bike is not running the NC relay will send power to the buzzer. When the bike it's running, the stator will send the 12v signal to open the relay stopping the buzzer.

 

thanks clintb00  that is a great idea! In fact aren't there relays that buzz now that I think about it? I can mount it right next to the ign. switch and run  a wire from the r/r.   I did the free power mod so my r/r is connected directly to the battery. But I can tap into it's red wire yes?  I'll take my dmm to my bike this week end to get some readings.

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clint - not so sure that will work.  The signal from the stator will be AC.  And the regulator will be affecting the signal as well.   I know that approach is used for indictor lights on cars but the signal comes from a different place and the regulation is done differently.  Might be worth a try.

 

Ryder- No harm in using he kill switch on a regular basis, except for leaving the key ON.

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clint - not so sure that will work.  The signal from the stator will be AC.  And the regulator will be affecting the signal as well.   I know that approach is used for indictor lights on cars but the signal comes from a different place and the regulation is done differently.  Might be worth a try.

 

Ryder- No harm in using he kill switch on a regular basis, except for leaving the key ON.

 

so i'd probably have to tap in  after the r/r which is dc output as I understand it.

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I was also checking this out...

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et245.htm

 

see the bottom section on that page

 

if this piezo is connected between the red wire out of the r/r and the ign switch...

when the ign is on and bike running, it will recieve current on both sides; no buzz

when the ign on and eng off ergo no current from the r/r then it will buzz.

and when the ign is off and eng off no current flow in either direction ergo no buzz.

 

i just have to make sure its connected right since it is polarized as the article mentions.

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Davey - well, yes that is DC, but it is also the battery which is constant power.  Not going to work to control the relay.  I don't actually know if a relay will work with AC on the control coil.  The other problem is the current from 1 leg of the stator will run to ground via the relay coil. Not sure that is a good idea either.

 

Take a look at what KTM does on a 2013 350 EXC.  They use a time delay circuit to kill the lights.  Like I say, I think you are looking at a more complex electronic circuit to control a warning buzzer.

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No - In that system the lights are not switched thru the ignition switch.  You have 12 volt power on the red wire (all red wires) at all time.

 

What you are look for is a circuit the senses running voltage vs not running battery voltage.  Or in other words 14 volts running vs 13 volts not running.

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Nobel is right, the lead coming off the stator is ac voltage and the one coming off the rr ,12v source, it's hooked to the pos side of battery which would power the relay all the time defeating the purpose. My next guess would be to tap into the positive side of the coil for your 12v signal but it looks like the cdi box uses the positive side to collapse the field... Dang, not as cut and dry as I first anticipated.

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Clint - Pos side of the coil could work if it was set up like a fuel injected car.  A control circuit senses sparks and keeps the fuel pump power on.  If for any reaon the ignition is ON but the ignition is not making sparks (motor not running), it kills the fuel pump. (There is a time delay over-ride for starting) But it is beyond me to design a circuit like that for the DRZ.

 

You could use the side stand to control a relay to kill power.  If the switch was at full deploy, it would not affect the motor like the OEM one does over bumps.

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Clint - Pos side of the coil could work if it was set up like a fuel injected car.  A control circuit senses sparks and keeps the fuel pump power on.  If for any reaon the ignition is ON but the ignition is not making sparks (motor not running), it kills the fuel pump. (There is a time delay over-ride for starting) But it is beyond me to design a circuit like that for the DRZ.

 

You could use the side stand to control a relay to kill power.  If the switch was at full deploy, it would not affect the motor like the OEM one does over bumps.

 

if i understand you noble there would need to be a circuit that senses the spark or perhaps sensing the voltage coming off the coil?

i can use a jfet  that is biased off from the voltage of the coil i think, shutting off the buzzer.

 

this just might turn out to be useful cuz if i can have some type of simple circuit that can sense when the engine is running and when its not may have other applications ?

Edited by daveyedgar
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looking at the schematic i can see that the lead to the coil is hot when the key is on so that won't do. So looks like the only way to sense that the engine is running is through the spark plug wire or coil output or from the stator.

The stator is more practical in this case but will require a circuit. So off the top of my head for the circuit i'll need a full wave bridge rectifier, voltage regulator, both going to the gate of a jfet, the source of which will go to the buzzer and ignition power and the drain to ground. And any necessary resistors. I'll get the componants at radio shack and put them on a bread board for testing. I'll post the results.

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