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Crf230 Starter Clutch Issues?


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My 2007 230 was recently bored out to the specs in order to outfit it with the BBR 240 kit with camshaft. It ran fine but made a ticking noise for a while (possibly relevant). It sat after one long day of riding for about a month and when I started it up yesterday it started up like usual but shut off when I pulled the clutch in about 10 minutes into riding it and now when I attempt to start it the starter kicks much faster than usual and the bike won't start. I also tried bump starting it but the rear wheel merely locks up and skids. I changed the spark plug to be safe and have confirmed that I have spark. I changed the gas, checked to see if anything looked out of place in the wiring, and eventually thought it may be the starter clutch. I checked the starter reduction gears and they look fine, as well as the starter idler gear. I don't have the tools to pop out the starter clutch but the teeth look fine on the gear from just looking at it behind the flywheel. There are a few very minor dings in the smooth outer surface of the flywheel as if something scraped it, but I'm not sure if that would affect it. I am at a complete loss, so any information will be helpful. The best part is that the bike broke down while I was trying to sell it. I had the cash in my hand and then this happened!

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My 2007 230 was recently bored out to the specs in order to outfit it with the BBR 240 kit with camshaft. It ran fine but made a ticking noise for a while (possibly relevant). It sat after one long day of riding for about a month and when I started it up yesterday it started up like usual but shut off when I pulled the clutch in about 10 minutes into riding it and now when I attempt to start it the starter kicks much faster than usual and the bike won't start. I also tried bump starting it but the rear wheel merely locks up and skids. I changed the spark plug to be safe and have confirmed that I have spark. I changed the gas, checked to see if anything looked out of place in the wiring, and eventually thought it may be the starter clutch. I checked the starter reduction gears and they look fine, as well as the starter idler gear. I don't have the tools to pop out the starter clutch but the teeth look fine on the gear from just looking at it behind the flywheel. There are a few very minor dings in the smooth outer surface of the flywheel as if something scraped it, but I'm not sure if that would affect it. I am at a complete loss, so any information will be helpful. The best part is that the bike broke down while I was trying to sell it. I had the cash in my hand and then this happened!

 

The way you describe the ticking sound and the increase in cranking speed it sounds like you may have bent a valve and lost compression. Since the starter appears to be working properly, you stated..."now when I attempt to start it the starter kicks much faster than usual" I think I would run a compression test. If compression is low (dry) run a second "wet" compression test before you take anything apart. Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you are trying to say, I'm not really sure of your terminology when you say the starter "kicks".

 

Tech25

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I meant to say that the starter sounds like it is spinning faster than usual. I am going to have a mechanic look at the bike on Friday but I think the problem is most likely as you stated. For the sake of optimism, is there a chance that the valves just need an adjustment or am I beyond that stage?

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I meant to say that the starter sounds like it is spinning faster than usual. I am going to have a mechanic look at the bike on Friday but I think the problem is most likely as you stated. For the sake of optimism, is there a chance that the valves just need an adjustment or am I beyond that stage?

Is it possible who ever installed the 240 kit/camshaft had the cam timing off? Loose valves will make a ticking sound, and so will valves if they are just touching the piston if the cam and crankshaft are out of phase. Valves that are tight are quiet (no lash) but won't seat properly and will eventually burn the valve face and valve seat (loss of compression) The ticking would have to be pretty loud and the valves awfully loose to keep the engine from starting. If you rotate the crankshaft does the camshaft also rotate and valves open/close? Are both the rocker arms loose (have lash) at TDC on the compression stroke? Could be cam timing and or broken cam chain too. In your post it kinda makes it sound like it ran only for one long day of riding, then sat for a month. How long did the bike "run fine with the ticking noise" after the 240 kit/camshaft was installed...hours, days, weeks, months?

 

Tech25

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