2000 WR400 Can I use this as a rectifier?

[IndyHooligan]

Hello everyone,

Glad to see there is such an awesome forum for help and community.

 

Background: 

I recently purchased a 2000 WR400F.  I live in Indianapolis, IN and would like to make it street legal (if I can get a title for it).  BMV told me since it never had a title -being  an offroad vehicle before 2005-  I could never get one.  Previous owner says it was never titled and he has no cert of origin.  I have since gotten an application for title online and sent a certified letter to old owner requesting one. The letter has come back unclaimed (since he has no title anyway).    I will be sending  in the application with my unclaimed certified letter requesting the title from him, inspection form, notarized cert of ownership and odometer stuff,etc.  I am not sure if this will get me title or not.   Either way, I want to add lighting and street tires.

 

I have researched the forums and saw where people bought rectifiers and then hooked up a camcorder battery in the airbox to power lights, kits, etc. 

 

As I have seen demonstrated, I would like to take one wire off the stator and run it to a rectifier so I have lighting options.  I have an old "SUN reg/rectifier/CDI"  Model #10-408 from Rick's Motorsport Electrics that I bought for an 86 Radian and never used. 

 

Would I be able to use this to replace the regulator that is currently near my triple tree?  It  has 7 wires ( 3 white, a black, a red, a green and a brown- and a plug).  I know the bike already has a CDI unit, is this even feasible or should I just go buy a regulator/rectifier elsewhere?  No one around my group of friends seems to know anything about wiring bikes. 

 

If I can use it, how would I hook it up?  

Thanks in advance.

Edited September 19, 2013 by IndyHooligan

[RickyStator]

That rectifier wont work as it is a 3 phase rectifier, you have a single phase stator so yo need a single phase rectifier.Like the one in the link. Adding a rectifier would be if you wanted DC power. The rectifier must be used in conjunction with a battery or a capacitor.

http://www.rickystator.com/catalog/regulatorrectifier-wrelay-p-637.html

http://www.rickystator.com/catalog/3700-nimh-battery-vehicle-mount-p-631.html

http://www.rickystator.com/catalog/capacitor-p-621.html

[IndyHooligan]

Thanks!  So if I understand you correctly, I remove the wire from the ground on the stator, lenghten it with spool wire, come up the frame to where the current regulator is, cut it off and replace it with "RS7004RR150" and then I can come out of the new reg/rect with my battery leads and leads for the headlight and tail light? ( I am not sure if this is "floating the ground").   Does your unit come with model specific instructions?   How many watts is it generating?  Enough for Headlight, brake light, signals and horn? I read somewhere 150 Watts should be enough, is the "RR150" in your designation for 150 Watts? 

Edited September 19, 2013 by IndyHooligan

[RickyStator]

the 150 watts refers to the power the r/r can handle from the stator. your stator puts out about 100 watts. you are correct about floating the ground, this will allow you to charge a battery. what type battery are u going to use?

[nuity5]

If all you're wanting to power is lights you really don't need a rectifier. You can run lights with the AC that comes from the stator. What you have now is a regulator which has what I'm thinking is basically a zener diode to contol voltage by pulling it to ground to maintain a set voltage level. If you want DC then a rectifier is needed. You would have to get a wiring diagram for the 86 Radian to see which wires are the rectifier. You should need 4 wires for full wave rectification. You might wind up with something under 12 volts because of the voltage drop through the diodes in the rectifier. That's pushing what I can remember - 10 years ago I was all over it but now I'd have to get some books out to tell you exactly what the diode drop is and what else to do. Hope this helps point you in the right direction but I'm thinking you really don't need to change what you already have since it came with lights from the factory. Clay

[PBDBLUE]

Pretty sure you will have to float the stator ground in order to use that regulator. I have no clue about the wiring. Maybe contact Ricky Stator for that.

[IndyHooligan]

I'm pretty sure I still have some batteries left over from when I owned my airsoft store that would work, they already have leads on them too.  A basic 12v NiMh with the most mah I can get for the size of the airbox.  I have seen batteries as low as $20 with the leads attached.  I just need to know how to hook up the Ricky Stator Reg/Rect once I order it.  I'm guessing there are two wires going in, and then two coming out.  Then I run from the battery to whatever I need powered with DC, such as Acerbis headlight, LED or DOT turn signals, the tail light (has dual filament bulb) horn, and hopefully soon, a VAPOR.  Not sure where the kill switch factors in there or the switch for low/high beam/turn signals.  Am I supposed to come out of the battery, to the switch then to the parts?

 

Thanks everyone for the comments. I noticed this thread was created twice by accident- sorry.

 

Somewhere someone had put up a nice parts list of stuff I"ll need to do the wiring.  Since I work in industrial supply it should be cheaper to obtain! ?

Edited September 21, 2013 by William1