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removing weight from my 400s

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hi guys,

what can i do if i want to remove weight off of my 2006 drz 400s this winter to get ready to participate in amateur/beginner enduro local races?

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I have a thread talking about this. Lightweight drz parts I think was the title. I bought a house and am still moving so I haven't had a chance to put on all the parts on. I'm aiming for 275 to 280lbs.

Is your bike stock?

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How tall and what do YOU weigh?

 

Follow this chart.

 

Weight-Height-chart.jpg

lol in kgs right?

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I have a thread talking about this. Lightweight drz parts I think was the title. I bought a house and am still moving so I haven't had a chance to put on all the parts on. I'm aiming for 275 to 280lbs.

Is your bike stock?

stock bike with:

mrd ssw

jd jetting

zeta 3 finger brake/clutch lever

rear set of signal light/took off the factory mud guard

items that can be removed:

gas tank / swap for a less heavy

chain protector

passenger footpegs

tires and tube setup / switch for tubliss setup

front fork / ktm fork swap

swing arm / rmz swap

then...?

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Get rid of the glass headlight.

 

Having taken mine apart I would say there's isn't much else you can do beyond what was suggested. The engine is just under 100lbs. The frame, forks, tank, and wheels are the next heaviest parts.

Edited by Bluelunatic

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stock bike with:

mrd ssw

jd jetting

zeta 3 finger brake/clutch lever

rear set of signal light/took off the factory mud guard

items that can be removed:

gas tank / swap for a less heavy

chain protector

passenger footpegs

tires and tube setup / switch for tubliss setup

front fork / ktm fork swap

swing arm / rmz swap

then...?

 

There isnt a lighter tank out there.  You won't save anything with a plastic tank. 

 

Here is my thread.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1036127-lightweight-parts/?hl=+lightweight

 

Tubliss setup i dont think will drop weight either.  Its not like a true tubeless rim setup, it has a high pressure tube setup that presses the bead into the rim and seals the spokes.  I dont know the exact weight of tube vs that specific setup. 

 

Fork swap wont gain you anything either im pressure sure. 

 

Is the rmz arm a swap?  the drz has a really wide hub, the rmz does not.  i have both bikes.  I dont think its a direct swap.  Maybe you mean the rmz style arm from the factory sm?

 

I have a lighter headlight im putting on. i swap the factory gauge for a koso gauge.  YZ front wheel.  I added kick start and i will be removing the starter gears, starter and battery/battery box.  get rid of turn signals/relays etc associated with it.  Maybe drop the DRC edge light and its heavy mouting bracket and put on my fender mounted acerbis led unit and mod the sub frame.  My bike in full stripped down track trim in SM form was 310lbs....

 

The big things that make the difference on other bikes are the little things.  hardware, ti cams, super light exhaust, minimal subframe etc.  You can only do so much.  I am hoping i can get it under 280lbs and i think i can without spending a fortune...

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lol in kgs right?

Thats the 2013 chart,  in POUNDS.     30 pounds over you are considered OBESE,  50 pounds over,  morbidly obese,  100 pounds over just a all around FAT ASS,  lol 

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Best way to shed DR-Z weight??? Get a diff bike altogether. Period. You want a strong backboned bike thats pretty darn reliable. Stick with the DR-Z. The steel frame is a huge factor with the weight. This bike was not design and built like KTMs or Yamahas. That why they are less expensive then the others are. Cutting wieght and sacraficing this and that and switching to aluminium frame all cost extra bucks. Can't turn a horse into an Italian grey hound. Sure you can shed a few parts. Spends lots of money replacing some parts with light material ones but in the end is the weight loss that significant??? Especially for the amount of money spent to do so...IMHO.

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There isnt a lighter tank out there.  You won't save anything with a plastic tank. 

 

Here is my thread.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1036127-lightweight-parts/?hl=+lightweight

 

Tubliss setup i dont think will drop weight either.  Its not like a true tubeless rim setup, it has a high pressure tube setup that presses the bead into the rim and seals the spokes.  I dont know the exact weight of tube vs that specific setup. 

 

Fork swap wont gain you anything either im pressure sure. 

 

Is the rmz arm a swap?  the drz has a really wide hub, the rmz does not.  i have both bikes.  I dont think its a direct swap.  Maybe you mean the rmz style arm from the factory sm?

 

I have a lighter headlight im putting on. i swap the factory gauge for a koso gauge.  YZ front wheel.  I added kick start and i will be removing the starter gears, starter and battery/battery box.  get rid of turn signals/relays etc associated with it.  Maybe drop the DRC edge light and its heavy mouting bracket and put on my fender mounted acerbis led unit and mod the sub frame.  My bike in full stripped down track trim in SM form was 310lbs....

 

The big things that make the difference on other bikes are the little things.  hardware, ti cams, super light exhaust, minimal subframe etc.  You can only do so much.  I am hoping i can get it under 280lbs and i think i can without spending a fortune...

 

 

buy a different bike for $1500

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buy a different bike for $1500

 

I have a 2012 ktm and an rmz 450.  Both of which i could tag if i really wanted to.  i would love a ktm500, but my drz is good and i wont get the money out of it.  So i could take a few grand hit and sell the drz, or drop a couple hundred bucks in parts and make it a little better.  I dont see a $1500 bike being better unless you find one that i dont know about. 

 

My plan is not to drop thousands of dollars trying to make a ktm killer out of my drz.  Im removing, modding stuff.  Yes i bought a different headlight and a skid plate(needed that) and a few little things here and there.  Everything else my bike already had.  I know the drz wont be a 250lbs enduro.  my goal of 280lbs is realistic.  I am 25lbs away from that.  Headlight, turn signals, battery and battery box, starter motor, starter gears, sub frame mod etc.

 

Everyone should be very aware of what they are doing and what the end goal is.  I own my bike, runs great, good power, i get to ride trails maybe once a month.  Whats $400 in parts :)

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i've seen guys spend thousands on titanium this and that for there bikes to save 3 or 4kg, they themselves were 30kg overweight. sometimes we humans have bizarre logic

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Movable weight vs fixed. Same reason I carry tools and not my bike. Not saying I'm spending thousands on my bike. $500 is my limit before it doesn't make financial sense.

i've seen guys spend thousands on titanium this and that for there bikes to save 3 or 4kg, they themselves were 30kg overweight. sometimes we humans have bizarre logic

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To lighten my plated SM I did all the small stuff including a Ti exhaust sys. Still wasn't light enough. So I bought an unplateable 2001 DRZ Kicker and switched all the kicker components over to my SM frame. Don't really know what it weighs. The kicker manual says 249 lbs dry so with the Ti exhaust at 5lbs lighter than the stock exhaust I figure under 265 wet with 1 gal of gas.

 

I've run it with the origional 21x18 set up and it felt kind of like my 450 GasGas's which says a lot.

 

Moving back and forth from my stock "S" to this bike is like switching to a different brand. It's about as good as it gets for a super reliable lightweight SM.

 

However, for dirt... especially enduros.. nothing like a 210 lb 2 stroke..

 

Tony

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I have seen the speedo cable blanked off and the odometer cluster removed as well. You could remove the seat and stand while you ride!

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To lighten my plated SM I did all the small stuff including a Ti exhaust sys. Still wasn't light enough. So I bought an unplateable 2001 DRZ Kicker and switched all the kicker components over to my SM frame. Don't really know what it weighs. The kicker manual says 249 lbs dry so with the Ti exhaust at 5lbs lighter than the stock exhaust I figure under 265 wet with 1 gal of gas.

 

I've run it with the origional 21x18 set up and it felt kind of like my 450 GasGas's which says a lot.

 

Moving back and forth from my stock "S" to this bike is like switching to a different brand. It's about as good as it gets for a super reliable lightweight SM.

 

However, for dirt... especially enduros.. nothing like a 210 lb 2 stroke..

 

Tony

 

 

you should put it on a scale. i think you'll be surprised how little you've changed it. 

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you should put it on a scale. i think you'll be surprised how little you've changed it. 

Not sure what you mean.

Changed it from what?

 

Looking at the owners manual for the Kicker lists the dry weight as 249 lbs and the "E" @ 262 lbs

 

While the manual for the SM lists the dry weight as 295 lb

 

Just according to the corresponding manuals that's over 45 lbs lighter Kicker vs SM.

 

Tony

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