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Bikes in the snow.

By runnybunny,
in General Dirt Bike Discussion

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Hans Schmid
Hans Schmid

I've seen quite a few different tire/stud combos used. Some work better then others, some cost more, some do more damage then good etc etc. IMO, the Trellaborgs are the way to go just because they are

yellow ketchup
yellow ketchup

Couple thousand studs

Leroyracing
Leroyracing

Riding on studs is some much fun! You get traction everywhere. Once the snow gets deeper than a foot we don't ride but anything under a foot of snow you can ride pretty easy.

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Landcrab

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Snow is like girls, they come in many forms!?

 

We ride on mixed snow/dirt/rocks and do fine without studs. If you're talking compacted, big studs are pretty mandatory. Compacted snow is like ice! ouch, been there before.

 

Have you ever seen a Timbersled or Explorer track in action? They are the price of a really nice used 450 bike, but the amazing videos I've seen would make it totally worth it if you ride and have the snow around to optimize its performance. Google 'em!

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runnybunny

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I'm thinking both. I know how slippery compacted snow is but I'm thinking of bombing down some roads, animal trails, and snow covered fields, just messing around mostly. I tried this in the past with regular mx knobbies but my groin is only so strong and so stretchy. Ouch.

Speaking of compacted snow, on the farm it gets so packed you can literally ice skate on it. 12 wheel tractors are driftable easily lol.

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runnybunny

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I have a spare tire that I could throw some ice studs on, are the DIY studs good? Someone said studs have traction everywhere. How much? Power wheelie on ice?

Also how about overheating issues? Do the rads plug up quick? And issues with water getting in places that ought not to be wet?

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Leroyracing

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We take a old tube and cut it and wrap it around the carb to keep it from freezing. I never had any over heating problems in the snow. I can climb hills with my studs in winter that I cant climb in the summer with knobbies. Get traction ust everywhere but watch out for rocks its like riding on ice with studs

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gimped up

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I'm thinking about putting some money into my cr250 to winterize it. Do any of you ride a lot in the snow? Are studded tires ect worth it or is it still barely rideable? Anything else I should know before I take it into the snow?

I would just buy a snow bike conversion kit.

Ski and track system.

Then let'er snow a/hole deep to a giraffe!

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Hans Schmid

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Bikes work awesome in the snow, really deep snow they struggle in but in anything under 8inchs with studded tires is EPIC, the traction is flat out amazing. You can lay the bikes right over and hold it pinned...

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4r24ZDFd6u4

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PaONTKjMbBM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EQ4SRZJDtmg

 

Im selling a set of nearly brand new studded Trellaborgs for $500....These factory made studded tires with a specialized rubber compound that allows them to still flex in cold weather....PM if interested,

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Hans Schmid

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I have a spare tire that I could throw some ice studs on, are the DIY studs good? Someone said studs have traction everywhere. How much? Power wheelie on ice?

Also how about overheating issues? Do the rads plug up quick? And issues with water getting in places that ought not to be wet?

 

Custom made studs 9/10 times just rip out.......never had a overheating issue running both my 4ts and 2ts....

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runnybunny

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Bikes work awesome in the snow, really deep snow they struggle in but in anything under 8inchs with studded tires is EPIC, the traction is flat out amazing. You can lay the bikes right over and hold it pinned...

Im selling a set of nearly brand new studded Trellaborgs for $500....These factory made studded tires with a specialized rubber compound that allows them to still flex in cold weather....PM if interested,

Oh you tempt me. Unfortunately I can't justify that to myself.

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Grand Master

gimped up

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Wut????

I've used an old tire with 1/4" grade 8 bolts nuts and washers.

Drill and install bolts from inside out obviously. Tighten nuts tight. Will work for a season.

If you use cheap bolts they break and go flying.

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avocasingletrack

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I'm thinking about putting some money into my cr250 to winterize it. Do any of you ride a lot in the snow? Are studded tires ect worth it or is it still barely rideable? Anything else I should know before I take it into the snow?

I sent a guy a nice PM with alotta good info for snow riding. Dont do screws, they will rip out in one ride. Screws are good on pure ice only, like a frozen lake. All i can say is you will have a szhit wagon of fun riding snow...ever crashing is hilarious !
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avocasingletrack

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I'm thinking about putting some money into my cr250 to winterize it. Do any of you ride a lot in the snow? Are studded tires ect worth it or is it still barely rideable? Anything else I should know before I take it into the snow?
I found the PM to the askin about snow riding...its long but thorough
I was reading your post in the cyclops LED thread and noticed you are riding this winter in the snow. I rode some single track this weekend in the snow for the first time. We weren't actually expecting snow, but after two hours of driving we weren't going to turn around and go home. We ended up having a blast. I ride a WR250F and was thinking about studding the tires. Do you have any suggestions that have worked well for you or are there good links for I can get more info on winter trail riding. We had so much fun. I don't understand why I've been winterizing my bike all these years.
Yes, Exactly . It's some of the best fun you can have on a bike . I got alot of good advice from http://www.youtube.c...Dav5049915����. (he has some good snow vids) And also Kevin's Cycle in Massachusetts is a good place to buy. You need stud tires for riding the mixed terrain that we all like , (trails, frozen dirt, ice, rocks under snow ) , screws will last only one ride for trail riding , you want the factory studded tires . . It also depends how much snow you usually have . Here in PA , even with snow, the trails get packed down and we have alot of rock and frozen ground even with the snow , and we also make stops at frozen lakes. For this kinda stuff you want the intermediate studs . They will last 5-10yrs but you have to be careful crossing pavement and if you have to go down pavement, you stay on the shoulder in snow or snow over dirt . You can ride down pavement if there is a good snow pack over it but bare pavement will ruin them. If you can snag a spare wheel set , this makes it really convenient . I have a spare set with studs on them so I can switch them on if it snows or throw regular tires back on if it's one of those mild winters . When the snow is "here to stay" , then I throw the Trelleborg studs on the other set of wheels. They are longer studs which are great when the snow gets deeper but ya dont wana run them if there's a larger percentage of exposed ground or barely covered ground and rock . You really need grip heaters, they are like $30 but you need a stator , which isn't a problem unless you have a YZ . My Ktm and WR powered them no prob . You will be glad yo put them on. You also want winter handguards , I use these http://www.powermadd...SNO.html����the ones with the big square opening are better than the tight round ones , If ya wreck ... and you will , the square ones have a big opening and your hand falls out without a problem . Wrecking in the snow is alot of the fun , ya go "Poof" and everyone has a good laugh ... When it gets really cold, you'll wana make a conscious effort to drag the rear brake quite often bcuz the rear brake likes to freeze up if you dont use it enough . Body temp regulation is another thing to watch. If you bundle up too much, you'll get hot , sweat then get really cold . I've found a few things that work for me . Medium thickness thinsulate socks are good ( rocky sock liners from walmart) and Merlino wool socks also worked good in much colder . I wear a Walls insulated bib (walmart) and under it I wear loose fitting "thin" thinsulate bottoms , thin like a t-shirt . I have similar tops . You can get underarmor , I found the ones from walmart , they call them "baselayer bottoms" work very well . You want the stuff to breath so you dont sweat . I wear a thick Rocky thinsulate shirt over it all , and then a zippered vest over that. You can open the vest and regulate as you get hot . Overheating and sweating is the problem with winter riding. Gloves are another issue , they have to be thin and snug enough to allow good control but also prevent freezing hands . You'll have to experiment . I found medium thickness ones work for me . Same thing for your head , you need a baclava for under your helmet , and not a super thick one . Something like this http://www.amazon.co...a/dp/B0012A8DUG , fyi, they all run small , if you have a medium to big head , can try some at dicks sporting goods but pay more . They also have to cover the nose to prevent nose and mouth exhalation from fogging googles ... its a bigger problem as it gets colder . They make some with a breath gaurd built in and you can get that part separate for pretty cheap also . Well hope that all helps , have fun man ! Edited by avocasingletrack
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