Just test drove a 400 SM for the first time - Looking for Advice

[DudleyCottager]

What a great bike! Local dealer just had a 2007 model in with on 5k on the clock and its mint. Totally standard bike. I'm thinking of buying it but dont know a thing about it!

 

Can anyone give advice to a noob?

 

I LOVED IT!!!! Great bike... but it felt a bit FLAT higher up in the rev range?

 

I dont want mega power and the low down pull in the gears was great.... however I noticed that it after starts to pull strong it just seems to die higher up the revs (like its ran out of air). Overtaking cars was easy for the first half of the car i was overtaking... until it ran out of power and i had to change gears mid overtake which would take a bit of gettting used to.

 

I felt like i wanted it to hold the revs a bit longer... make sense?

 

I'm sure a lot of this is down to the restrictive exhaust and airbox im guessing.

 

I loved the bike to bits... i dont want to turn the bike into a hi maintenance monster.. just a bit more GO...

 

Is it possible that a new full exhaust and set of carb jets would give it more pull and let it rev harder.. or am i kidding myself and to get more power means big spend?

 

Any advice would be appreciated!! Would love to buy it just want to know what im getting into.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

James

[genR8r]

Look in the FAQ for the 3x3 mod. That with a pipe, and you can quite a bit more out of the bike without spending a fortune, but it can get expensive if you want it to.

[ofir2006]

You need to keep in mind that the bike top RPM is 7850, while other bikes, even 250cc road bikes reach around 13k - 14k rpm.

 

The DRZ is very powerful on the low RPM's, because thats his destiny, thats what hes built for, power on low RPM.

 

You dont need and even shouldn't pull the DRZ to high RPM's, you will feel power loss at higher RPM's because the power is on the lower rpm's as mentioned.

 

Must say that the DRZ with the stock exhaust feels lazy, the engine sound is lame, sounds like the engine is telling you "Please leave me alone, I'm tired!"

 

Replacing the exhaust will let the engine breath alot more freely and you will feel difference, from "Leave me alone, I'm tired!" it will become "HARDER!"  ?

 

There are alot of things you can do to the DRZ in order to gain more power, such as 3X3 Mod, FCR carburetor, hot cams and more, but keep in mind that every tuning will reduce the life time of your engine and the rest of the parts.

Edited September 21, 2013 by BlaCk ChaoS

[dave...]

My 08 SM has 3x3, jet kit, and exhaust. I love the low and mid range. It's a bit gutless up top. Doesn't matter to me though as the grunt down low is just awesome.

Edited September 21, 2013 by dave...

[MtnRyder25]

You need to keep in mind that the bike top RPM is 7850, while other bikes, even 250cc road bikes reach around 13k - 14k rpm.

 

The DRZ is very powerful on the low RPM's, because thats his destiny, thats what hes built for, power on low RPM.

 

You dont need and even shouldn't pull the DRZ to high RPM's, you will feel power loss at higher RPM's because the power is on the lower rpm's as mentioned.

 

Must say that the DRZ with the stock exhaust feels lazy, the engine sound is lame, sounds like the engine is telling you "Please leave me alone, I'm tired!"

 

Replacing the exhaust will let the engine breath alot more freely and you will feel difference, from "Leave me alone, I'm tired!" it will become "HARDER!"  ?

 

There are alot of things you can do to the DRZ in order to gain more power, such as 3X3 Mod, FCR carburetor, hot cams and more, but keep in mind that every tuning will reduce the life time of your engine and the rest of the parts.

 

 

i remember seeing in a thread not long ago that the top rpms are around 9000 experts correct me if im wrong? 

[mickeydee]

i remember seeing in a thread not long ago that the top rpms are around 9000 experts correct me if im wrong?

s and sm models cut out around 9500rpm, e and k models cut out at 10500rpm

[MtnRyder25]

s and sm models cut out around 9500rpm, e and k models cut out at 10500rpm

 

thank you sir. i thought 7850 sounded awful low! 

[DrD]

 The right  set of cams would change that and alow it to pull harder up top

[ofir2006]

s and sm models cut out around 9500rpm, e and k models cut out at 10500rpm

 

Thanks for letting me know, I just searched google and used the first result I saw, guess its an amateurs website.

 

Anyhow, the rest of my message is still relevant, the DRZ is pretty powerless on the very high RPM's.

[lowercasee]

The best way to access the upper RPM range on the DRZ is to swap the standard BSR36 carb for an FCR39MX.  Without the FCR, you'll never really get to that sweet top end because the stock carb simply won't allow it.

[ofir2006]

I have a question to the people who replaced the carb to an FCR one.

 

Did it effect your mileage?

[DudleyCottager]

The best way to access the upper RPM range on the DRZ is to swap the standard BSR36 carb for an FCR39MX.  Without the FCR, you'll never really get to that sweet top end because the stock carb simply won't allow it.

Out of interest then... Are there places in the UK who sell these Fcr. Kits... And are there companies who can fit and tune the bike to get the most out of them?

[Supermotomad1]

Out of interest then... Are there places in the UK who sell these Fcr. Kits... And are there companies who can fit and tune the bike to get the most out of them?

just order them in . Not hard to fit... Where abouts in uk are you

[BurnCycle]

You know so many people complain about the DR-Z power in this band width or that. It makes no sense to me. What are you comparing it to? It is a 398cc single cylinder thumper. Tuned for the most part to USA EPA standards. It is not a two smoke or multi piston crotch rocket. It is 33-34hp stock. It is a utilitarian motorcycle even in its SM dress. Yes there are many things you can do to bump its power up a tad to more than double. The tad is reasonable in cost being air box mod, stock carb jetting and a free flowing exhaust (of which the MRDssw is hard to beat for the price). From there the costs go up cuz FCRs, cams, BB kits, labor, etc, ad nausem, are not cheap. Just depends on what you want out of a bike. Any bike for that matter. Yes price is an attracting factor. As with anything you get what you pay for. You are not getting a KTM SM at a DR-Z SM price. Thats why sites and forums like this exist. People working to make a DR-Z like something they should have paid the price for in the first place. I know because I am one of them...

 

Black chaos...yes making any changes will affect your mileage. Mostly downward. But a very well tuned and set up FCR with other engine mods can sometimes improve it. But with the fun factor of those improvements the right hand is counter indicated to getting better mileage... ?

Edited September 22, 2013 by Jim BurnCycle Abbott

[lowercasee]

I have a question to the people who replaced the carb to an FCR one.

 

Did it effect your mileage?

 

Swapping to an FCR will have an effect on the mileage, especially if you are hard on the throttle.  The best mpg that I have gotten with the FCR is about 51-52mpg which was achieved by cruising on the highway at a constant 65-70 for about 80 miles.  Under standard riding and having a little bit of fun, I get low-mid 40s.  I'm sure riding hard in the woods would drop the mpg's even more.  IMO, the tradeoff in mpg's for performance is worth it.

[lowercasee]

Out of interest then... Are there places in the UK who sell these Fcr. Kits... And are there companies who can fit and tune the bike to get the most out of them?

 

As mentioned, the best way to get the correctly set up FCR39MX is through the TT store.  It comes with all necessary hardware and jets to suit most all situations, plug and play.  The install, while it can be a PITA, is not particularly difficult.  It just takes time and patience.  There are a ton of good tips on here to make it easier.

[lowercasee]

You know so many people complain about the DR-Z power in this band width or that. It makes no sense to me. What are you comparing it to? It is a 398cc single cylinder thumper. Tuned for the most part to USA EPA standards. It is not a two smoke or multi piston crotch rocket. It is 33-34hp stock. It is a utilitarian motorcycle even in its SM dress. Yes there are many things you can do to bump its power up a tad to more than double. The tad is reasonable in cost being air box mod, stock carb jetting and a free flowing exhaust (of which the MRDssw is hard to beat for the price). From there the costs go up cuz FCRs, cams, BB kits, labor, etc, ad nausem, are not cheap. Just depends on what you want out of a bike. Any bike for that matter. Yes price is an attracting factor. As with anything you get what you pay for. You are not getting a KTM SM at a DR-Z SM price. Thats why sites and forums like this exist. People working to make a DR-Z like something they should have paid the price for in the first place. I know because I am one of them...

 

Black chaos...yes making any changes will affect your mileage. Mostly downward. But a very well tuned and set up FCR with other engine mods can sometimes improve it. But with the fun factor of those improvements the right hand is counter indicated to getting better mileage... ?

 

While the KTM models are certainly much more powerful, lighter, and better race bikes, they still have very short maintenance intervals and typically shorter engine lives.  You can get a used DRZ in decent condition and build it to near 50hp for a pretty reasonable price and you still have reliability and far more reasonable maintenance schedule.  Is it a KTM killer?  No way, but they seem to make most people pretty happy.  I'm not bashing KTM by any means either, I would LOVE to have a new 500EXC.

[Anthon Berg]

... just a 3x3 airbox hole + rejet will make a difference, as will again a carb, as will again cams, and a full exhaust - and there are cheaper carbs you can use than the FCR.

 

There are many ways, and they are variously expensive. There is a LOT of potential in the DR-Z motor, but unlocking ALL of it costs more money than it's worth *to me*. However, you can unlock quite a bit for not much $

 

I'm quite happy with my S with a pipe and 3x3 + rejet. That said, I'm pretty skinny = lightweight = the bike feels funner. (I notice that it's less funner if I simply have a heavy backpack.)

 

I'm going to add a CVK40 carb from a KLR650 (there's a "recipe" on here / drzforums.com on how you fit one to a DR-Z), Hot Cams or E-model camshafts (might do intake only), and then bump the compression by putting in an E base gasket under the cylinder. These are relatively cheap parts,  but they are some work to fit. I'm sure that it's not worth going this way if you are seeking max gains for time * money, but this way is IMO fitting to what the DR-Z is, and to my purpose - which is knowing it in and out, squeezing the most out of the limited money I have, and learning about the bike. In that respect, I don't mind doing a ton of work for relatively little gain.

 

Then if/when engine components fail and need replacement, I plan on upgrading. Big bore if I need a new cylinder, stroker if the crank goes, bigger valves if the head needs a refresh.

 

It can get a bit philosophical ?

 

However, before you go all-out on the power, there are some other cheap upgrades that can be worth doing - lighter/stronger battery, lighter-weight headlight, suspension rebuild. (Suspension can be done DIY. Especially on the DR-Z. Nice hardware, simple, and fine to work on.)

Edited September 22, 2013 by Anthon Berg

[Anthon Berg]

My original point got lost ?

 

It could actually be that the 3x3 airbox hole + rejet kit is enough for you. The DR-Z is jetted reeeal strange from the factory. I think especially so in Europe.

 

It's not instant +100hp up top, but there is power in the mod, throttle response is way better, it's much smoother in the low RPMs, and top speed is increased noticeably. A mate's unmodified DR-Z400S has trouble going much above 125kph, but I've taken mine to 145+, all stock except 3x3 mod - stock exhaust was on that time.

[mickeydee]

I have a question to the people who replaced the carb to an FCR one.

Did it effect your mileage?

your mileage is directly corolated to your right wrist. Usually 99% of all fcr owners will get worse mileage.this is only because you can wheelie with ease and your top end speed is noticeably higher.