Buying Questions DR-Z400K

Alright so I have the opportunity to pick up a kicker only 2000 model with some nice mods for a great price (1K) from a family friend.  I am mainly going to be using it as a dual sport explorer that will see a decent amount of street time and off road time.  I have another bike so it won't get all the street time though.

 

As far as getting it legal in Nevada i'm just going to get the TUSK dual sport kit and I should be good to get it plated and inspected.

 

Some questions though...

 

1.  This wouldn't be my first kicker but am I going to regret it?  I have owned moto-x bikes and have never worried about it but for street use it worries me.

 

2.  Will the K model be able to use a key type ignition or speedo?  I would love to be able to have a key when I park it various places.

 

3.  Anyone have experience duallying a K model?

 

Thanks in advance!

Alright so I have the opportunity to pick up a kicker only 2000 model with some nice mods for a great price (1K) from a family friend.  I am mainly going to be using it as a dual sport explorer that will see a decent amount of street time and off road time.  I have another bike so it won't get all the street time though.

 

As far as getting it legal in Nevada i'm just going to get the TUSK dual sport kit and I should be good to get it plated and inspected.

 

Some questions though...

 

1.  This wouldn't be my first kicker but am I going to regret it?  I have owned moto-x bikes and have never worried about it but for street use it worries me.

 

2.  Will the K model be able to use a key type ignition or speedo?  I would love to be able to have a key when I park it various places.

 

3.  Anyone have experience duallying a K model?

 

Thanks in advance!

 

1 kicks easy, if it's not flooded

2 well, you can stick one on there from  a s / sm as a visual deterrent. or wire it in. yes

3 i don't know what duallying is 

1 kicks easy, if it's not flooded

2 well, you can stick one on there from  a s / sm as a visual deterrent. or wire it in. yes

3 i don't know what duallying is 

Basically just using it for on and off road use...

Just to be clear, there is no "K" model.  Officially you are looking at a 2000 DR-Z400 (no post script) and Y for the year code    DR-Z400Y.  Calling it a K is ok as long as people understand you mean kicker.  The confusion is amplified because Suzuki did use the letter K as a year code.  For example a 2001 kicker is DR-Z400K1  (K1 is the year code for 2001 for all models of DRZ400)

 

This really is only important when it comes to ordering replacement parts.

Just to be clear, there is no "K" model. Officially you are looking at a 2000 DR-Z400 (no post script) and Y for the year code DR-Z400Y. Calling it a K is ok as long as people understand you mean kicker. The confusion is amplified because Suzuki did use the letter K as a year code. For example a 2001 kicker is DR-Z400K1 (K1 is the year code for 2001 for all models of DRZ400)

This really is only important when it comes to ordering replacement parts.

Good to know... Thanks for the info. Still wondering alittle more about my questions...

Didn't you just post the same questions in an other post? If not, some one did and the answers are there.

I have a street legal 2002 kicker and used the Tusk kit as well.  It works great for my use (day trips).

 

1)  No, I doubt you'll regret it.  Mine starts on the first kick usually.  It's so easy to start, I could care less about an E start...well unless I crash on a steep hill.  :)  Sure, if you kill it on the street it is embarrassing (been there).  Just feather the clutch a bit more on take off to be safe. 

 

Plus, it's the lightest of the DRZ's, no battery maintenance (other than charging the Tusk battery pack every once in a while), and revs quicker.  I like it a lot better than my buddy's old S model - granted his was stock and had 15/44 gears vs. my 15/47.  Although I'm only going by seat of the pants experience (didn't race each other - he sold it before I got mine), mine feels like it would absolutely destroy his in an acceleration contest.  And it was noticeably less top heavy - still a pretty heavy feeling bike though.

 

2) Yep - Trail Tech Vapor, or you can get an analog/dial speedo that the existing odometer cable plugs into.  You can get a key switch that ties into the kill switch wires (Baja designs, procycle, etc. have them).  There are probably other options also.

 

3) Yep.  The Tusk kit made it simple.  I think you'll need a dual filament headlight bulb though being it is a 2000 if that is required in your state - not sure though.  I didn't hook the hi/low up on mine since we don't need it inspected and I don't ride at night. 

 

You will want to balance the wheels with either another rim lock opposite the existing ones, or with wheel weights.  I used spoke weights.  It shudders/vibrates/pulses at highway speeds otherwise (annoying to ride) and you'll get uneven wear on your tires.  I'm sure it isn't good on the wheel bearings either. 

 

Then just figure out the terrain you are going to ride and pick the gears and tires that will best suite you.  I like 15/47 the best for all around riding.  Read the zillion tire threads to get an idea on where to start there.  I run a Pirelli XCMH on the front, and Kenda Trackmaster II on the back.  I plan to try a XCMH rear next though to see if I can squeeze out a few more miles on the pavement before they're worn out.  I absolutely love the XCMH front for both dirt and pavement.

 

And do the recommended fixes in the FAQ (loctite, MCCT, case savors, etc.) if they haven't been done already.  My primary nut barely took any effort to get off (probably a disaster waiting to happen).  In fact, the counter balancer nut had more torque on it.  If they haven't been done, get a good gear puller for the kick start lever.  That was the hardest part of the loctite fixes for me.  I fought, cussed, and yelled for a good hour before I got a gear puller.  I even told the poor thing I should have gotten a KTM :).  It came off in a couple of minutes with a puller (grime, etc. makes it stick/bind to the shaft).  Also, get a gear jammer (I used a Motion Pro one) since kickers don't have the square hole in the fly wheel to keep the engine from rotating while you torque the primary nut.  Just make sure the little magnet is still on it when done.  Mine came off and luckily it was stuck to the socket since I had already put the engine cover back on when I noticed it missing. 

 

Radiator guards, skid plate, etc. are also highly recommended.

 

Other than that, I can't think of much.  Maybe a better seat lol. 

 

 

Hey for a 1000 bucks I think maybe it's worth a look..... :thinking:

 

How about some pics..??

Absolutely ... Sounds like a Screaming Deal .

What can you get these days for a grand ?? ...MRD .. FCR ?

What can you get these days for a grand ?? ...MRD .. FCR ?

 

You are BANG on the money there mate....... :thumbsup:

I have a street legal 2002 kicker and used the Tusk kit as well.  It works great for my use (day trips).

 

1)  No, I doubt you'll regret it.  Mine starts on the first kick usually.  It's so easy to start, I could care less about an E start...well unless I crash on a steep hill.  :)  Sure, if you kill it on the street it is embarrassing (been there).  Just feather the clutch a bit more on take off to be safe. 

 

Plus, it's the lightest of the DRZ's, no battery maintenance (other than charging the Tusk battery pack every once in a while), and revs quicker.  I like it a lot better than my buddy's old S model - granted his was stock and had 15/44 gears vs. my 15/47.  Although I'm only going by seat of the pants experience (didn't race each other - he sold it before I got mine), mine feels like it would absolutely destroy his in an acceleration contest.  And it was noticeably less top heavy - still a pretty heavy feeling bike though.

 

2) Yep - Trail Tech Vapor, or you can get an analog/dial speedo that the existing odometer cable plugs into.  You can get a key switch that ties into the kill switch wires (Baja designs, procycle, etc. have them).  There are probably other options also.

 

3) Yep.  The Tusk kit made it simple.  I think you'll need a dual filament headlight bulb though being it is a 2000 if that is required in your state - not sure though.  I didn't hook the hi/low up on mine since we don't need it inspected and I don't ride at night. 

 

You will want to balance the wheels with either another rim lock opposite the existing ones, or with wheel weights.  I used spoke weights.  It shudders/vibrates/pulses at highway speeds otherwise (annoying to ride) and you'll get uneven wear on your tires.  I'm sure it isn't good on the wheel bearings either. 

 

Then just figure out the terrain you are going to ride and pick the gears and tires that will best suite you.  I like 15/47 the best for all around riding.  Read the zillion tire threads to get an idea on where to start there.  I run a Pirelli XCMH on the front, and Kenda Trackmaster II on the back.  I plan to try a XCMH rear next though to see if I can squeeze out a few more miles on the pavement before they're worn out.  I absolutely love the XCMH front for both dirt and pavement.

 

And do the recommended fixes in the FAQ (loctite, MCCT, case savors, etc.) if they haven't been done already.  My primary nut barely took any effort to get off (probably a disaster waiting to happen).  In fact, the counter balancer nut had more torque on it.  If they haven't been done, get a good gear puller for the kick start lever.  That was the hardest part of the loctite fixes for me.  I fought, cussed, and yelled for a good hour before I got a gear puller.  I even told the poor thing I should have gotten a KTM :).  It came off in a couple of minutes with a puller (grime, etc. makes it stick/bind to the shaft).  Also, get a gear jammer (I used a Motion Pro one) since kickers don't have the square hole in the fly wheel to keep the engine from rotating while you torque the primary nut.  Just make sure the little magnet is still on it when done.  Mine came off and luckily it was stuck to the socket since I had already put the engine cover back on when I noticed it missing. 

 

Radiator guards, skid plate, etc. are also highly recommended.

 

Other than that, I can't think of much.  Maybe a better seat lol. 

 

Thanks for the awesome response dude!! Seriously a huge help and i'm pretty much set on picking her up now!!  Can't wait to fix it all up for street use.

 

Got any pics of her?

 

Everyone else, i'll post pics as soon as I go pic it up!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now