EFI reset - hard starter

I have searched a fair bit online, and through my manual for information
on running resetting the EFI on my bike - 2012 250 xc-f.
So far I can find much other than running the bike without touching it, but getting different information on the duration of this 5,10 and 15mins?

Does anyone know how long for and if it helps?

My bike is up to 30hrs now and about 4months old as left over stock.
It's always been hard to start in gear, and not always great in neutral either, and more so if hot.
I am hoping the reset thing may help as tried a few other things so far including
new fuel filter, checked valve clearances, tps sensor adjusted, idle speed, high output battery, hotter plug, new piston and rings, clutch lever adjusted. I'm running out of things to look at next, but getting pretty cross with it now so any other suggestions are welcome.

Clean the injector

Clean the injector

It's been like this from new, but I will try anyway. Thanks

Anyone got any more info on running the bike to auto adjust the carb/settings? How long etc?

Cheers

I'm running the same bike. From day one it was always hard to start in gear. I changed the battery to a Shorai. It helped start that puppy right over. I have heard on here that some people are backing out the decompression spring and it has helped. Haven't done that. Shorai makes two different bats for the bike. I suggest the stronger power one. It's a lot of money but really helps. And will save one a couple pounds( weight wise) I ride some pretty tough single track. I hit the magic button and fires right over in gear.

And the map setting, I run the trail tech 3 position switch and I was told by trail tech to run, at idle,for 15 minutes. I recommend to put a fan in front of the radiator to keep it cool. Hope it helps you.

I'm running the same bike. From day one it was always hard to start in gear. I changed the battery to a Shorai. It helped start that puppy right over. I have heard on here that some people are backing out the decompression spring and it has helped. Haven't done that. Shorai makes two different bats for the bike. I suggest the stronger power one. It's a lot of money but really helps. And will save one a couple pounds( weight wise) I ride some pretty tough single track. I hit the magic button and fires right over in gear.

And the map setting, I run the trail tech 3 position switch and I was told by trail tech to run, at idle,for 15 minutes. I recommend to put a fan in front of the radiator to keep it cool. Hope it helps you.

 

I put the most powerful turn tech battery in at 5hrs but that made no difference. I may look at the decomp spring further as it is fairly tough to kick over also.

 

Cheers

There must be something else wrong. When I kick my bike over it fires right up. I'd have it looked at. I honestly don't have any complaints about the bike. It's solid. The suspension is taking a bit to figure out, but have it pretty dialed in now. Good luck. Keep me posted. I haven't ran into to many people that comment about our bike.

The idle in 5min for the offroad bikes. Is your idle set a little too slow? They like to idle pretty fast. Cleaning the injector is a good idea, IMO left over bikes that have set with that little bit of nasty fuel stabilizer seem to have more problems with clogged injectors. I've seen brand new bikes that had to have injectors replaced, always older stock that had been setting a while.

The idle in 5min for the offroad bikes. Is your idle set a little too slow? They like to idle pretty fast. Cleaning the injector is a good idea, IMO left over bikes that have set with that little bit of nasty fuel stabilizer seem to have more problems with clogged injectors. I've seen brand new bikes that had to have injectors replaced, always older stock that had been setting a while.

The idle speed is 13 clicks from fully counter clockwise. I'm getting the injector cleaned tomorrow.

Will also order a Golan fuel filter

Clean the injector yourself

9volt battery can of carb cleaner see YouTube

Job done 5 mins

Done loads poor fuel is to blame and even new bikes low hours they don't like being stood ,not used

Clean the injector yourself

9volt battery can of carb cleaner see YouTube

Job done 5 mins

Done loads poor fuel is to blame and even new bikes low hours they don't like being stood ,not used

I've heard this does not always work 100%, but open minded for suggestions

If its been that way from the start ...  get a hold of a UST and put more fuel in ...

 

All this stuff about resetting the FI is bunk ...  My 350 way back ... I put a pipe on and it refused to start.

 

Adjusting the EFI with the UST is the only solution (assuming there are no mechanical reasons).

Stop trying to look for fault that aren't there

Just clean the injector is quick and easy

My 350 was shit from new cleaned the injector every 10 hour to keep it sweet

145 hours later sweet

And run decent fuel

That reset f1 and burn in is a load of bollocks

Stop trying to look for fault that aren't there

Just clean the injector is quick and easy

My 350 was shit from new cleaned the injector every 10 hour to keep it sweet

145 hours later sweet

And run decent fuel

That reset f1 and burn in is a load of bollocks

Yes its looking like the reset thing is not going to do much.

 

I took the injector to a shop that services injectors today as they also test them. 

The connector was corroded and the injector worked intermittently on their machine. 

Once corrosion was cleaned up the injector was tested and was/is working correctly.

If I have time at the weekend I will test the bike again, hopefully this has helped.

Clean the injector yourself

9volt battery can of carb cleaner see YouTube

Job done 5 mins

Done loads poor fuel is to blame and even new bikes low hours they don't like being stood ,not used

that only works if some debris is in the injector, if it is fuel varnish the only way to clean is with an ultrasonic cleaner and pulsing the injector while in the ultrasonic cleaner.

tempurature and type of oil is also inportant to get the cranking speed the engine needs to fire hot or cold. if it is below 40deg f you should use a thiner oil like 5-40. check frame to subframe for poor contact and clean off the paint on one of the subframe mounting points, left lower is easiest. that will make sure the ground side of starter circuit is good. idle must be set properly also. a dealer can reest the ecu for you and make sure the latest mapping for Estart is installed. initialization should be as long as take the bike to get to full operating temp, or until coolant spits out of radiator cap, time isnt as important as engine temp.

Yes its looking like the reset thing is not going to do much.

 

I took the injector to a shop that services injectors today as they also test them. 

The connector was corroded and the injector worked intermittently on their machine. 

Once corrosion was cleaned up the injector was tested and was/is working correctly.

 

The very first thing one should do with the new FI bikes is open every single connector, fill with dielectric grease and snap them back together. It will save tons of grief down the road.

The very first thing one should do with the new FI bikes is open every single connector, fill with dielectric grease and snap them back together. It will save tons of grief down the road.

 yes, but dont fill the connectors with the grease. if you do the connectors will push out the back or spread the connection apart when you push the connectors back together. a little goes a long way.

 yes, but dont fill the connectors with the grease. if you do the connectors will push out the back or spread the connection apart when you push the connectors back together. a little goes a long way.

I was kind of hoping people would be smart enough on the sealed connectors, of which there are only a few, to not force them together.

 

You have a good point though.  :)

That is a good heads up. Never even though about that. Thumbs up!!!!!

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