Braking improvements

I have been looking into ways to improve the front braking system of my 2010 kx450f.

The obvious first choice is an oversize rotor kit, however I race gncc and worry about spending $300+ on a rotor that has an increased chance of getting bent.

So I am looking into ways to improve the stock size rotor system and would really like your input

Does anyone have any feedback on braided brake lines, different brands or types of rotors, or brake pads?

Ride engineering sells brake calipers that have bigger pistons and ventilate heat better. Around same price as high end oversize rotor. They say it has a better overall progressive feel than an oversize rotor with more stopping power. Think I saw it on mxa mag.

Hmm.., I've heard about master cylinders, oversize rotors, etc but didn't know about the calipers. Thanks

Buy a 08 or newer crf master cylinder. Other option is the 13 kx250 or 450 master. I have an 11 kx 250 with oversize rotor, stainless like, and rebuilt the master and bled with a vacuum bleeder for hours as well as back bled and the lever is still mushy in the first 20% of the pull. My 13 kx450 with the new master cylinder is ten fold better box stock, and with the oversize rotor on it it's everything I could ask for.

I THINK that the guts "plunger and seals" from the 13 COULD fit in the older master. The casting numbers are the same. I'm busy at school but plan on trying to swap the guts out of the 13 into the 11. That's the only difference I can see is the plunger design... And the 13 plunger is like a Yamaha it has a ball on both ends so it has free range of motion unlike the slave cylinder type of our 10-11 setup which seems to add a lot of resistance.

Edit:

Keep your eyes on eBay... I have a braking barfly oversize kit on my 13 450 that I bought for 100 shipped (rotor and bracket)

Edited by dmm698

I bought a 280mm ebc kit new for 161.00 and bought a complete mint 93 CR front brake setup,love those old CR brakes.

Keep me posted if the guts out of the 13 fit your 11, I actually have a spare cylinder off an 11 that I will change the guts if they fit.

I'll have to keep up with eBay, you can't beat a deal like that.

Edited by ddididistuter

I'm unfamiliar with prior kawi brakes, as my 13 is my first. But the front brake on my 450 is amazing. Huge stopping power and excellent modulation. at the start of the day it's one finger, but as I tire out it takes 2. Oversized rotor will fix this. Not sure why the magazine's slammed the 13s brakes, saying they needed more to stop this beast. I've been very happy and will leave them alone until I get the suspension sorted out.

Rear brake is a different story, it takes to much stroke to get it to bite hard.

Tusk oversized rotor kit works great for me. $115.

 

On the rare chance you bend it, just get another one.

I was going to get the tusk but based on previous experience and my 270lb girth I went for the 280mm rotor.

I was actually thinking about the tusk kit, how sturdy is it? Granted for $115 I could buy another if it bends but I'd rather keep it as long as possible

I have the tusk kit. It is a great value. I felt no difference between it and the oversized braking brand kit I had on it before. I will from now on buy the tusk kit if I need an oversized kit. I now just added a galfer steel line. The combo works very well!

If I did not find my EBC kit for the 161 I would have bought the Tusk,good reviews on it.

I was actually thinking about the tusk kit, how sturdy is it?

I'd say it's at least as strong as the stock rotor, or stronger. The floating rivets are better on the Tusk part. They flex but dont feel so sloppy.

Keep me posted if the guts out of the 13 fit your 11, I actually have a spare cylinder off an 11 that I will change the guts if they fit. I'll have to keep up with eBay, you can't beat a deal like that.

 

It's something I most likely will not get to until Mid December. My season is pretty much done as i'm finishing up my senior year of mechanical engineering degree. Snowmobile project at school ect. Over my winter break i'll play with it and i'll do my best to let ya know..most likely just start a new thread in here if it fits.

I'm unfamiliar with prior kawi brakes, as my 13 is my first. But the front brake on my 450 is amazing. Huge stopping power and excellent modulation. at the start of the day it's one finger, but as I tire out it takes 2. Oversized rotor will fix this. Not sure why the magazine's slammed the 13s brakes, saying they needed more to stop this beast. I've been very happy and will leave them alone until I get the suspension sorted out.

Rear brake is a different story, it takes to much stroke to get it to bite hard.

 

I"m in a tough position to make a definite opinion on this because i've only got 12 hours on my 13, and 110 or so on my 11 250f (the bike is maintained to the T so its still tight).

I'm going to preface this whole thing with this: I am SUPER picky about the feel at the lever. This is the FIRST thing I notice. Which is why the honda Masters always seem to feel really strong to me.

 

When the 11 was brand new I thought it stopped pretty good.The lever feel was pretty nice and progressive, without much initial slop in the pull. At about 10 hours I put an oversize motomaster flame rotor on it. Improved the stoping big time, while retaining the positive feel at the lever. About 25 hours it started getting mushy. 

Changed fluid -- no difference

Rebuilt master-- no difference

added stainless galfer line-- a small improvement.

This whole time The bike still "stopped well" but the initial 3/8 ths of the lever pull was mushy. I vacuum bled, back bled it, tried different fluids no difference.

 

The bike is still kind of mushy to this day. The lever also feels a bit notchy due to the slave cylinder design.

For anybody with a 2013 that's had a hard time finding a brake lever, the yamaha lever fits. The slave cylinder is no longer a "cylinder", but now a thin rod with a ball on both ends. This allows it to rotate freely in different directions at both ends. This fix's the notchy problem as it cant get "hung up" trying to slide into the master from not being pushed perfectly straight.

 

The first time I rode the 13 450 I thought the lever feel was awsome, which is why I want to try to swap the guts and see if it makes a difference. Anyways, it definitely felt like it did not want to stop with all the power it had. I put the oversize rotor on it and all I can say is it's absolutely awsome.

 

 

I'd say it's at least as strong as the stock rotor, or stronger. The floating rivets are better on the Tusk part. They flex but dont feel so sloppy.

It slipped my mind, and I didnt actually even notice until a buddy wanted to see if either of my low hour stock rotors would fit his bike because his was toast but, the 2013 rotor is a solid rotor like the honda's. Its not a floating disc in the front anymore.

Interesting. I now see the 2011 was the last model to have the floating front rotor. That sounds like typical a cost saving change to me.  Which makes the floating 270mm Tusk kit seem like even better value.

If I remember right, the Tusk oversized rotor is I think 100g heavier than my stock 250mm rotor, I hate a vague front end, so I'm paranoid about low unsprung mass on the front of my Kawi, but this 100g is worth it. It gave me new confidence on the bike. Less right arm pump too.

I should have put on one years ago. For years I've had the Honda master (noticeably less spongey than the 2006-12 part) and I've got the Honda calliper too (makes no diff IMO). I've also got a steel braided line and that's a tiny bit better, but the 270mm tusk rotor makes a big difference. As significant as having some great new pads compared to some crappy contaminated pads.

Edited by numroe

I ordered the tusk kit yesterday. Can't wait to get it on the bike

I fixed my kx brakes by taking my gas cap off and driving a new ktm under it!!

Fixed with an oversize rotor and 87 CR master and caliper

Often great gains after machine sanding the rotor friction surfaces, and hand sanding the pads on some course grit paper or abrasive gauze. To remove the glaze of both. 

You know guys I installed the Tusk oversize rotor, new carbon Tusk pads, dragged the front brake while riding until hot & then sprayed with break cleaner to remove any oil/etc, but the when I pull the lever is really mushy. I mean you can feel the pads engaging but you can still get the lever to touch the grip if you continue pulling. It does stop a lot better but the lever feel is annoying. What would you guys recommend?  

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now