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Another DRZ400E FCR help thread

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Hi guy's,

 I've searched and have been reading threads for over a week and still in the dark. Hoping you guy's don't mind another bad idle thread. Here's the story

 

2000 DRZ400E with the stock FCR39 on it. Has the snorkel removed and a high flow baffle in the stock muffler. Carb has a dynojet stage 2 kit in it but it idled terrible with the stock jet's in it also. The DJ kit uses the stock 45 pilot but say's one turn out. I've tried all fuel screw settings from 1 turn out to 3 and still idles like crap. No intake leaks I have checked this many times. all good. I removed the CE and it did nothing. Bike runs exactly the same with the TPS connected as well as disconnected. Also the idle adjust screw is all the way in. Any setting away from full in the bike dies. And because of this the idle hangs up when blipped.

 

Hoping I can get some sort of help on here. I'm about to buy a new carb from the TT store (which I can't find by the way) just to rule out the carb as being old and worn. Any help would be greatly appreciated and again I apologize as I know this has been covered so many times.

Edited by shift96

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DynoJet kis never worked good in the FCR carb.  However even that should not have a big effect on the idle.

 

The key to your story is "the idle screw is all the way in".  What that means is the carb is not idling on the idle circuit at all.  It is idling off the main circuit.  So clean or replace the 45 pilot jet.  If that does not solve the problem, the problem is more complex than I can resolve from here.

 

Verify the floating slide plate is installed correctly (what looks like an arrow point points up).  Verify the rubber seal between the roller slide and the floating slide plate is in good condition.  Has the carb body ever been immersed in caustic carb cleaner?  If so, not good.

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Hi Noble,

 Thank you for the very good info. I will replace the 45 and check the slide and the seal like you suggest. What I did do tonight is took the tubing off connecting the 2 ports on the carb from where the CE was (one has a jet in it) and although not cured it did seem to run better. I do not know if it was ever immersed since I just bought it a couple weeks ago. Also where can I get the rubber seal and possible a new slide? from Sudco only?

 

Thanks again

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Hi Noble,

 Thank you for the very good info. I will replace the 45 and check the slide and the seal like you suggest. What I did do tonight is took the tubing off connecting the 2 ports on the carb from where the CE was (one has a jet in it) and although not cured it did seem to run better. I do not know if it was ever immersed since I just bought it a couple weeks ago. Also where can I get the rubber seal and possible a new slide? from Sudco only?

 

Thanks again

 

What pilot air jet is installed?...should be a 60 if you connect the ports with hose....Without inspection , you could try capping the carb ports and see if that makes a difference, maybe there is a 100 paj fitted...

Follow nobles suggestions and report back....

You may want to try an OCEMN needle, I am also not a big on dynojet needles in fcrs

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You should see no difference in running with the tube connected or not.  The nipple with the jet does not care if it draws air from the other nipple or outside air. 

 

Keep in mind a new carb from TT is a kit to fit an S/SM.  It will not fit your E model directly.  You will need a different carb adapter for the air boot or use an S boot. And you may need to use S throttle cables.

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I have the nipple with the jet in it plugged. both nipples on the carb have caps on them. So it is the same as connecting them with the tube?

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No.  The nipple with the jet needs air assuming the pilot air jet is 60.  If you replace the 60 jet with a 100 jet, then you plug both nipples.

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You should see no difference in running with the tube connected or not. The nipple with the jet does not care if it draws air from the other nipple or outside air.

Keep in mind a new carb from TT is a kit to fit an S/SM. It will not fit your E model directly. You will need a different carb adapter for the air boot or use an S boot. And you may need to use S throttle cables.

i believe the belmouth of the stock fcr is removable and installed on the fcrmx and e cables will work but I had to install both locknuts on one side of the the throttle tower to get free play with e cables Edited by mickeydee

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Update. I installed a new slide seal and pilot jet and it's night and day better. Bike runs pretty good now at aidle. Thanks for all the help guy's

Edited by shift96

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