2013 rm-z 450 fork height?

So, I have played with fork height a lot lately. Ranging from 3mm-9mm.  What I found is that both the lower and higher settings have pro's and con's, but neither seem to be bad or unbearable.   I'm at 8mm now and it seems pretty good. What have you guys found to be the sweet spot? 

 

I'm at 7 and find it to be ok, don't forget to check your fork sag/preload

with no rider my fork sag is at 35mm w/ 3 clicks of preload.

I think it was Rotaholic that suggested 7mm to me and it was instant magic. Was running them at 5mm prior. 

5

5

5mm ended up being where I felt most comfortable. Going to leave it there for a while

If I may ask, why does everyone suggest 5mm as being the best. My owners manual recommends 9mm.

 

Wouldn't 5mm make it more stable at higher speeds, but harder to turn? The reason I ask is at 9mm, I am not getting that "Suzuki cornering feel".... Help!

If I may ask, why does everyone suggest 5mm as being the best. My owners manual recommends 9mm.

 

Wouldn't 5mm make it more stable at higher speeds, but harder to turn? The reason I ask is at 9mm, I am not getting that "Suzuki cornering feel".... Help!

 

Try them all, it only takes a second. Some people ride over the front more than others, tracks and suspension set up can make a huge difference. I prefer to have a razor sharp steering bike that gets a bit squirly at high speed, others might like a more stable feeling bike at high speed. Don't forget to set your fork preload aswell

So many many variables. Sag, springs, valving, even body position can make turning different. Some guys sit really far up. Others sit middle or back. Dont be afraid to try different sag settingsband spin the clickers. You can always set it back.take a sharpie and write on the frame what u like. You may find a clicker or sag setting better for one type of terrain than another. Just mess with it.its fun and its surprising what you may like and sometimes how small change makes huge difference

I found that on most tracks here in AZ, 6mm seems to work the best for me. There is one smaller tighter track that has good traction, for that track 8mm is great. I usually make 2mm increment changes. I start at 3mm and go up till the head shake is noticeable. Then I go down 1mm till its tolerable.  So what I found is 6mm seems to works at all tracks for me. Sure, it could turn sharper at 9mm or feel more stable at 3mm, but 6mm feels like it has the least amount of compromises. By the way this is with the stock spring set at 105mm.  To the guy that is having an issue with his bike turning in the stock configuration, (9mm).  Try reducing fork preload. Prior to my revalve, I found that the bike turned better with the preload adjuster set at 1-2 clicks as opposed to 5-7 clicks. Also, a slower rebound and softer compression. As with everything else, what works for one might not always work for others.

Hey fellas, are you doing your measurements using the beveled top edge of the fork? 

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