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Lower chain guide really necessary?

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I put a 13 tooth on the front and just recently put a 48 tooth on the back.  When I installed the rear sprocket, I had to get a longer chain but also noticed that I had to remove my lower chain guide because it just didn't work or fit with the new larger sprocket.  Took it for a short ride and all seemed fine.  Is the lower chain guide truly necessary?  Thanks for any help...

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I like having them in place and blocking twigs/rocks from chunking through the chain  or even a body part  LOL

 

yours is  just derlin  (plastic like )  ?  I didn't have to do anything for a 14/52   from 15 / 48 sprocket change on my XR  but if my guide wouldn't have fit  I would clearance it  with a grinder  or see if I could change it up at the mount

Edited by Zimman
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I put a 13 tooth on the front and just recently put a 48 tooth on the back.  When I installed the rear sprocket, I had to get a longer chain but also noticed that I had to remove my lower chain guide because it just didn't work or fit with the new larger sprocket.  Took it for a short ride and all seemed fine.  Is the lower chain guide truly necessary?  Thanks for any help...

 

All you need to do is cut a slot on the top portion of the guard to allow the sprocket clearance. Others have done it. If you stay on the street that guard is not as important but, just like Zimman said ... it is there to prevent something from getting between the chain and sprocket causing derailment. You do not want to throw a chain in the woods. 

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All you need to do is cut a slot on the top portion of the guard to allow the sprocket clearance. Others have done it. If you stay on the street that guard is not as important but, just like Zimman said ... it is there to prevent something like your foot from getting between the chain and sprocket causing derailment. You do not want to throw a chain in the woods or anywhere else, engine case damage can result. 

 

 

Fixed it for you.  ;)    :cheers:

 

Here is a quote from a different thread about this matter also. :)

 

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1007160-gearingsprocket-selection-what-are-you-using-or-intend-to-use/page-11?hl=%2Bchain+%2Bguide+%2Blower#entry10724841

 

 

Here's my update on the gearing.

First, I changed to a 13t on the front. It was a very pleasant change, but a very slight one as well. I believe 13/40t should've been the factory setting. Bike feels much happier accelerating from stop. No significant improvement off the road but a little less revving in first gear.

I'm not sure what I have messed up, but after the first ride with the new 13t, chain started to stretch out badly. I've adjusted it two more times (always with a decent slack) and it stretched out after each ride.

I didn't lament much after the stock chain because I had a new chain ready.

Then I put the 48t one the rear and (stock) 14t on the front with the DID VX2 chain. Only five links out of 120 were cut.

As many have reported, sprocket bolts are tightened beyond reason. Two of us used quality tools and took great care not to strip the heads but it happened on two bolts. It's almost inevitable. Hex heads on those bolts are rubbish. I searched for a replacement but I could only find tall-head bolts (witch do not clear the axle) and the OEM. For now, I'm riding with four sprocket bolts. :banghead:

Ironically, even if they strip easily they are of extremely hard steel. We ruined two decent drill bits trying to drill them out. At the end we welded a nut/screw on the top and managed to get them out.

jUD6DO4l.jpg

Sprocket and chain clear the upper chain guard, but the lower guide needs to be adjusted. We made an aluminium bracket moving it forward by a few centimeters and also flipped the rubber guide for a little more clearance.

Black bolt and the middle bolt go through the chain guide and the third bolt just goes through the swing arm hole.

wNj6vXWl.jpg

nk8kwkYl.jpg

After quite a bit of money and time spent, the result is fantastic.

I have yet to try the bike on the track but it finally feels alive. Only now do I feel that there is a chance to lift the front of the ground. There is a lot more shifting of gears but I don't mind that. All gears are still usable and torquey. Speedo is waaay off witch is kind of fun (I can do 20km/h in reverse in my yard :lol: . I also got 120km/h when I'm sure I wasn't going much over 80km/h). It can be a nuisance if you need to stick to the speed limits. Bike can still be ridden on the street with this setup. It even feels quicker.

Even my friend who was a sceptic about CRFL said that it rides like a real (off road) bike now.

After I see how it handles on rough terrain I'll decide wether to put the 13t. (I wouldn't want to ruin another chain)

Cheers.

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My words should have been "guide" and not "guard" as well .... the "guard" is the upper one and the "guide" is the lower ....  :doh:  

The upper "guard" is not as important but would help in the event of the chain breaking. The "guide" helps prevents derailment. 

Edited by gnath9
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My words should have been "guide" and not "guard" as well .... the "guard" is the upper one and the "guide" is the lower ....  :doh:  

The upper "guard" is not as important but would help in the event of the chain breaking. The "guide" helps prevents derailment. 

 

 

How did I miss that part....   :lol:   Well I fixed it part way at least...   :rolleyes:

 

 

:cheers:

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How did I miss that part....   :lol:   Well I fixed it part way at least...   :rolleyes:

 

 

:cheers:

 

Did you make coffee yet this morning ....  :thinking:

 

Coffee%20Morning%20Cat.jpg

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All you need to do is cut a slot on the top portion of the guard to allow the sprocket clearance. Others have done it. If you stay on the street that guard is not as important but, just like Zimman said ... it is there to prevent something from getting between the chain and sprocket causing derailment. You do not want to throw a chain in the woods. 

 

 

I like having them in place and blocking twigs/rocks from chunking through the chain  or even a body part  LOL

 

yours is  just derlin  (plastic like )  ?  I didn't have to do anything for a 14/52   from 15 / 48 sprocket change on my XR  but if my guide wouldn't have fit  I would clearance it  with a grinder  or see if I could change it up at the mount

Thanks a ton!!  Exactly what I was looking for!! Appreciate the help....

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Thanks a ton!!  Exactly what I was looking for!! Appreciate the help....

 

You are more than welcome ...  :thumbsup:  

Post up pic's and share what you get done ... :cheers:

I too am thinking of putting a 48 on the rear and have been looking for a new chain "guide" or modifying the stock one. I am still undecided as to what I will do for sure ....  :thinking:

 

20130408_xrsonly_4406_b_02_2.jpgbrp-chain-block-black-honda-crf.jpgacerbis-chain-guide-honda-crf.jpg

Edited by gnath9
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I got rid of the stock guide and have had no problems. I did end up replacing it with a Zeta guide, however, it is more of a guard than a guide. Now that I re-read the description, I didn't realize it was meant to go on along with the stock guide, looks like I'll be putting that guide back on tonight   :doh:

https://www.wheelingcyclesupply.com/shop/product/zeta-chain-guard-brace/635

 

IMG_1197.jpg

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Thought I would show you all my mods and pic of my latest conundrum with the chain guide....

 

Here is the problem I was talking about... you can see that with the plastic chain guide, the rubber piece really can't fit in there.  Will try the fix later today.

DSC00233.JPG

 

 

Here's how I modified the back tail.  I took off that ridiculous metal contraption that held the license plate and then cut the plastic portion so I could still affix my plate but keep everything else.  Works pretty good and cuts down on the clutter....

DSC00234.JPG

 

 

Installed a FMF Q4 with Powerbomb.  Love it! The old exhaust was incredibly heavy compared...

DSC00236.JPG

 

 

Next is probably my proudest mod... I got burned pretty good on my leg one day by the Powerbomb section when it tipped over on my leg and I only had shorts on.  Not my proudest moment.  Anyway, I went to Home Depot and got a small Strong-tie plate they use in construction and bent the edges using a table clamp so it could fold around the Powerbomb section just a little.  Grinded down and sanded the edges so there were no burrs to cut me and then added a Renthal sticker to make it look like it belonged.  Turned out pretty good. I just used the one stock clamp that was used to affix the last cover on the original pipe and it fit on the Powerbomp pipe fine.  Now it provides a little protection from my pants or leg getting burned and it doesn't get hot at all....not even warm.

DSC00237.JPG

 

A view from above so you can see that it fits nice and tight without touching....

DSC00238.JPG

 

 

Added some Tusk handguards.  Love these and have kept me from breaking the levers on falls.  These are an absolute necessity, so go get some before you break a lever and then end up buying a lever and the handguards anyway.

DSC00239.JPG

 

Had a small crash one day and bent the heck out of my radiator.  Had to buy a new one.  Learned to buy a radiator guard too and it's been great!

DSC00240.JPG

 

A view of how it fits from behind...

DSC00244.JPG

 

 

Added a skidplate from Flatland Racing.  The stock plastic plate was a joke.  This new plate has saved my bacon more than several times.  Also replaced the shifter with one that retracts.  I bent the original on a crash and learned to get the ones that retract and bounce back.  Funny how you try to save money by not buying a bunch of stuff and then you end up buying it anyway, along with an additional piece that needs replacing...

DSC00241.JPG

 

Last but not least, I installed a cig lighter and ran the wire from my battery up under my tank to the front and zip tied it all the way.  Now I plug in my GPS finder easy.  The one thing with this though is that on rough rides when I am bouncing around a lot, the lighter comes out a little and the power goes back to battery on the GPS.  I have had to tape it in before aggressive rides....

DSC00242.JPG

 

You can see here where it comes off easily when necessary...

DSC00243.JPG

 

That's about it!

 

 

 

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Nicely done. :thumbsup:   We like pictures.  :smirk: 
 

Thought I would show you all my mods and pic of my latest conundrum with the chain guide....
 
Here is the problem I was talking about... you can see that with the plastic chain guide, the rubber piece really can't fit in there.  Will try the fix later today.
 
post-366302-0-53738500-1380123957.jpg
 
 
Here's how I modified the back tail.  I took off that ridiculous metal contraption that held the license plate and then cut the plastic portion so I could still affix my plate but keep everything else.  Works pretty good and cuts down on the clutter....
 
post-366302-0-42309200-1380124154.jpg
 
 
Installed a FMF Q4 with Powerbomb.  Love it! The old exhaust was incredibly heavy compared...
 
post-366302-0-49036400-1380124189.jpg
 
 
Next is probably my proudest mod... I got burned pretty good on my leg one day by the Powerbomb section when it tipped over on my leg and I only had shorts on.  Not my proudest moment.  Anyway, I went to Home Depot and got a small Strong-tie plate they use in construction and bent the edges using a table clamp so it could fold around the Powerbomb section just a little.  Grinded down and sanded the edges so there were no burrs to cut me and then added a Renthal sticker to make it look like it belonged.  Turned out pretty good. I just used the one stock clamp that was used to affix the last cover on the original pipe and it fit on the Powerbomp pipe fine.  Now it provides a little protection from my pants or leg getting burned and it doesn't get hot at all....not even warm.
 
post-366302-0-00709000-1380124227.jpg
 
A view from above so you can see that it fits nice and tight without touching....
 
post-366302-0-75640100-1380124267.jpg
 
 
Added some Tusk handguards.  Love these and have kept me from breaking the levers on falls.  These are an absolute necessity, so go get some before you break a lever and then end up buying a lever and the handguards anyway.
 
post-366302-0-79333400-1380124304.jpg
 
Had a small crash one day and bent the heck out of my radiator.  Had to buy a new one.  Learned to buy a radiator guard too and it's been great!
 
post-366302-0-27488600-1380124767.jpg
 
A view of how it fits from behind...
 
post-366302-0-61421200-1380124906.jpg
 
 
Added a skidplate from Flatland Racing.  The stock plastic plate was a joke.  This new plate has saved my bacon more than several times.  Also replaced the shifter with one that retracts.  I bent the original on a crash and learned to get the ones that retract and bounce back.  Funny how you try to save money by not buying a bunch of stuff and then you end up buying it anyway, along with an additional piece that needs replacing...
 
post-366302-0-44428000-1380124802.jpg
 
Last but not least, I installed a cig lighter and ran the wire from my battery up under my tank to the front and zip tied it all the way.  Now I plug in my GPS finder easy.  The one thing with this though is that on rough rides when I am bouncing around a lot, the lighter comes out a little and the power goes back to battery on the GPS.  I have had to tape it in before aggressive rides....
 
post-366302-0-04956300-1380124837.jpg
 
You can see here where it comes off easily when necessary...
 
post-366302-0-71092900-1380124871.jpg
 
That's about it!

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So I took what info you provided on this forum and got to work.  Went to Home Depot again and got a thicker Strong-tie construction piece of metal.  Grinded down the piece into the shape I wanted and drilled 3 holes to match up with the swing arm attachment area.  Here's a shot of the piece and where it's going....

DSC00245.JPG

 

Here's the piece over the two holes with the extra one out front so I can move the chain guide forward to make proper room for my 48t....

DSC00247.JPG

 

 

After attached.  You can see where the rubber guide lifts the chain just a tad, but that should wear down and I figure it's not a big deal...

DSC00252.JPG

DSC00251.JPG

 

 

Final product from the front a little so you can see the first bolt has some space between it.  I'll try to find a metal spacer to put inbetween there just to fortify it a bit. (I spray painted that vanilla plastic piece flat black so it would match a bit better.  Not sure if the paint will hold up, but whatever.)

DSC00255.JPG

 

Here's what it looks like from the side....

DSC00256.JPG

 

Thanks again for everyone's help and advice!

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Nice :ride: ,  What size sprocket is that?

I have a 48-tooth on the back and a 13-tooth on the front.  Stock chain was 106 links, but I had to get a longer chain to accommodate the 48-tooth sprocket.  Now the chain is 110 links.

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You are more than welcome ...  :thumbsup:

Post up pic's and share what you get done ... :cheers:

I too am thinking of putting a 48 on the rear and have been looking for a new chain "guide" or modifying the stock one. I am still undecided as to what I will do for sure ....  :thinking:

 

20130408_xrsonly_4406_b_02_2.jpgbrp-chain-block-black-honda-crf.jpgacerbis-chain-guide-honda-crf.jpg

Gnath... take a look at how I fixed the lower chain guide today. Pics below in the post....

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I have a 48-tooth on the back and a 13-tooth on the front.  Stock chain was 106 links, but I had to get a longer chain to accommodate the 48-tooth sprocket.  Now the chain is 110 links.

 

Is the chain long enough to fit a 14 tooth sprocket with say a tall 4.50"x18" tire???  13/48 would be fun with a 305 kit.  It should be able to pull redline in 6th gear no problem.

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Do you know what your top speed is via your GPS with the 14/48 combo?   :thinking:  

 

p.s. I made the mistake of leaving mine on once when flying on a plane, and the next time I checked the top speed it was 384 mph.  LOL  :lol:

Edited by dkappelm
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Is the chain long enough to fit a 14 tooth sprocket with say a tall 4.50"x18" tire???  13/48 would be fun with a 305 kit.  It should be able to pull redline in 6th gear no problem.

I would think it would be long enough.  There is still some room to move the tire forward a little, but with 110 links it's just perfect for the 13/48 setup.

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Do you know what your top speed is via your GPS with the 14/48 combo?   :thinking:  

 

p.s. I made the mistake of leaving mine on once when flying on a plane, and the next time I checked the top speed it was 384 mph.  LOL  :lol:

I don't know with the 14/48 setup, but I can tell you with my current 13/48 setup that my speedometer is off by about 10-12 mph.  When I had the 13/40 setup, it was exactly a tenth off (so when I was in the 50s mph, I subtracted 5 and knew what I was going.  If I was going 60, I subtracted 6, 70 subtracted 7, etc.)

Gnath... take a look at how I fixed the lower chain guide today. Pics below in the post....

Meant, pics are somewhere above in this post...

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