Clutch/transmission issues

Ok, so here goes.

 

Since I bought my 06 SM, the clutch has seemed hard to pull. Not too long after I first got it, the clutch cable broke. I assumed it was due to the cable being too tight (no slack at the lever) and it not being lubricated. I replaced the cable, and routed it the same way it was before. Even with adjustment (about a nickel thickness of play) the clutch pull seems pretty hard. I also have issues with shifting, especially when the bike is stopped. When stopped it is almost impossible for me to shift gears, especially neutral. It makes me feel like the clutch is never fully disengaging, but I have the cable adjust as tight as it can be without losing free play at the lever. I don't know what to do.

 

Any tips for me? I will try to possibly take a video on it, but don't hold your breath.

 

Thanks

Is this a New bike, purchased new by you in 2006? or a used bike?

 

If not purchased new by you.. I would ensure you are using a OEM clutch perch,, have a quality cable routed correctly, make sure the clutch arm is on the spline cam shaft correctly, pull the clutch cover and confirm you have OEM springs and disks. 

It is a used bike purchased this year with ~5500 miles.

It is a used bike purchased this year with ~5500 miles.

With the new cable installed... have you compared the lever feel to another DRZ?

Zeeno,

 

I get done with work about 3 today, I'd like to run home and change but I'd be down for a ride tonight, I could meet you around 4 near Bradford?? We can swap bikes for a bit if you want to compare. I'd also like to look at the clutch arm, if it is in fact installed correctly on the spline shaft, if not it might be a good indication the case was split at some point??

Zeeno,

 

I get done with work about 3 today, I'd like to run home and change but I'd be down for a ride tonight, I could meet you around 4 near Bradford?? We can swap bikes for a bit if you want to compare. I'd also like to look at the clutch arm, if it is in fact installed correctly on the spline shaft, if not it might be a good indication the case was split at some point??

I'm down, but I work til 5

So we went out for a cruise tonight and compared the bikes. His clutch pull is much much harder than mine, the clutch cable appears to be routed the same way, no sharp bends or anything and the lever on the spline shaft appears to be at the same location. I drove the bike a little bit and the pull is hard all the way down to the handlebar, and it seems it is not disengaging all the way even at full stroke with the lever. What would cause this?? I would think if there was a problem with the springs it would be easier to pull not harder, maybe I'm wrong.

^ What Turd said. Halp!

So we went out for a cruise tonight and compared the bikes. His clutch pull is much much harder than mine, the clutch cable appears to be routed the same way, no sharp bends or anything and the lever on the spline shaft appears to be at the same location. I drove the bike a little bit and the pull is hard all the way down to the handlebar, and it seems it is not disengaging all the way even at full stroke with the lever. What would cause this?? I would think if there was a problem with the springs it would be easier to pull not harder, maybe I'm wrong.

Do you have the OEM clutch perch? Have you removed the lever, cleaned and lubed the pivot point and the top/bottom where it contacts the perch?

What cable is being used? (brand)  Has it ever been lubed? With what?

 

If someone installed "Heavy Duty" springs that might account for a stiffer clutch pule... But mostly I find it ti be a cable or lever/perch issue. 

The clutch perch is different than mine, and it has aftermarket levers. That being said, it appears to all be lined up and operating correctly. Last night, I loosened up the nut/bolt holding the lever on just to be sure it wasnt binding. While riding it I noticed the clutch lever doesnt want to spring back out as fast as mine either, to the point clutching up a wheelie is not really a possibility.

The clutch perch is different than mine, and it has aftermarket levers. That being said, it appears to all be lined up and operating correctly. Last night, I loosened up the nut/bolt holding the lever on just to be sure it wasnt binding. While riding it I noticed the clutch lever doesnt want to spring back out as fast as mine either, to the point clutching up a wheelie is not really a possibility.

Aftermarket levers and or perches can pull the cable at an angle that causes bind in the perch. 

 

The cable and lever need to come out.. check the perch and lever for any signs of binding or cable drag.. That would be a simple and my first step.. 

 

And I just realized Im talking to the riding buddy,, not the OP .... :lol: 

Check the lever adjuster. Look where the cable comes out of the adjuster where the cable connects to the lever. See if the cable is binding on the adjuster

If the springs in the clutch pack are bad would that affect the lever pull?

If the springs in the clutch pack are bad would that affect the lever pull?

Not unless something really unusually happened like one of them fractured or collapsed and is binding. 

 

Worth a quick look, costs nothing to confirm or deny. 

Not unless something really unusually happened like one of them fractured or collapsed and is binding. 

 

Worth a quick look, costs nothing to confirm or deny. 

The clutch cover is on the right side of the bike right? Will I lose oil if I pull it off?

The clutch cover is on the right side of the bike right? Will I lose oil if I pull it off?

Yes right side

ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1380321524.603347.jpg

You can lean the bike over and lose nothing

And the cover uses an o ring so long as you don't pinch it on install it is reuse able

Btw, my bike has an aftermarket clutch perch. Maybe I will make a video about it.

I tracked my Honda RC 51 last month and was having major issues with clutch slippage going down the front straight. When I got home I pulled the clutch pack out and found worn friction plates. On the RC, the last friction plate is offset and put in a shallower groove than the rest of the pack. Whoever put mine in did not offset the last plate. I don't understand all the mechanics of how that works.

 

The DRZ service manual makes no mention of that, but there are two different thicknesses of drive plate and I bet someone could screw up the order of how those go in. Also the orientation of the spring washers.

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