2007 RM-Z seized up

I am new to the dirtbike wolrd and have been riding for about 2-3 months now on trails, never done any racing. I was riding my bike like normal last weekend when it decided to lock up on me. It didnt make any kinda strange noises or pops or anything like that. It will change gears no problem but the kickstart is stuck and will not go down. When i got home i checked the radiator and there was basically no fluid left. So im figuring everything in the top end got hot and melted together in a sense. (im assuming thats what happened) Was just wondering if anyone else has had this problem and if so what all parts were need to fix this. Would like to know everyones thought on what they think coulve possibly happened. I havent tore into the bike yet but plan to this weekend. Would just like to see what everyones ideas are becuase i know there are people out there who know alot more then i do. Need to know if there is any chance i will get lucky and just have to rebuild the top end and no damage done to the bottom end. Or if its not even the top end and all bottom end. Would just like to get some advice from someone who knows what they are talking about.

Edited by DStacy02

Top end goes first when overheating occurs. If its true overheat from lack of water itll probably be your piston/rings. Thermal expansion. A good thing to read up on. Id get a manual and take it apart. Of course observe your cams and valve. But definitely get that piston out throw itin the trashed and hope to all mighty your cylinders still pretty. It can be salvaged to a point by machining and im willing to bet yoire in that range. If your valve trains decent (measure tolerances)(observe wear) you may get away with a hundred or so at the machine shop. 180 for a piston and 40 for gaskets. And id also spring for a new cam chain. Get as many new parts as you can afford but i say piston and cylinder conditioning.

Now with the piston off look at the rod. Check for axial and radial pplay. Look at your small end. Hopefully it looks good. Stick the old pin in and see if theres play. Measure the pin. If you heard no clunking by your footpegs id say yoir trannys good.

Now clean the garage and start stripping her down!


Welcome to Suzuki forums DStacey


unfortunately the only way to really know is to start taking her apart. start with draining the oil and checking its condition/color. if its milky then you know where your water has gone. Removing the strainers. check for metal shavings. Check also for debris in your oil filter dont be afraid to look between the folds of the paper element to see what kind of debris is in there (your throwing the old filter out anyway so rip it appart.) any bronze colored metal would indicate that the thrust washers in the crank have ground away and that your crank is toast. usually heat/piston seizures will free up the kick starter after they cool down but it is not always the case. whatever happens, this is a very good time to get in there and learn the ins and outs of your motor. if you have questions when tearing it appart dont be affraid to ask, I, as well as many others, have quite a bit of experience with these model RMZ's

ok, So i took the valve cover off and everything looked normal, no chunks of anything that i could find. Drained all the oil and there was not a single metal shaving in it. Was just a little milky but not bad. Kick start will now kick down but still has resistance, gonna put more oil in it and see if it will start up. if it doesnt then ill take it all apart and find out whats wrong. Is this a bad idea?

Edited by DStacy02

if there was no coolant left and it seized, its highly likely you seized the piston or even warped the head. if your valves are fine then your looking at replacing the piston but you will have to look into the condition of the cylinder. i would advise you look into it before causing anymore damage.

Agreed. Pull the head. If your oil was milky thats where your coolants going. Head gasket. Best scenario. Cracked cylinder. Worst.

how do I go about removing the timing chain so I can just remove the top end without having to take out the whole motor? and my oil had barely any milky streaks, but im sure that if there would have been more coolant in the bike my oil would have turned out a lot more milky

how do I go about removing the timing chain so I can just remove the top end without having to take out the whole motor? and my oil had barely any milky streaks, but im sure that if there would have been more coolant in the bike my oil would have turned out a lot more milky

Get yourself a manual, if you would like, PM me and i can send you mine in PDF format. you already removed the valve cover, take note of how the cams are installed, remove the cam chain tensioner and then remove the cam holders followed by the cams themselves, this way the cam cahin is free from the top end and you can remove the head with the motor still in the bike. Just make sure the bike is VERY clean especially under the frame spares that run over the motor (dont want dirt falling into the bottom end when you remove the head)

Ok so I stripped bike down to frame and checked everything in top and bottom end and found nothing wrong or broken. What I did find out is that I need the decompressor that hooks into the exhaust cam. As I feel as I that is where my problems manifested. Would this cause the bike to lock up temporarily like happend? Bikes kick start is still stiff after reinstallation

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