Cr125 2006 - need to revalve?

Hi all, I have a cr125 06 that I'm starting to use for woods, it's got a nice pair of KYB suspension (front/back) ... My weight is around 83kg naked ...

In your opinion need to be revalved/spring changed for wood or is it good as standard?

Thanks

racetech.com

Its always good to revalve for your weight and riding style, what's good for moto isn't always good for trail

Its always good to revalve for your weight and riding style, what's good for moto isn't always good for trail

I'm a standard riden, 82 kg naked and novice ... Do I really need it, will change my way to go? Cheers

Revalved suspension is the best money you can spend on a bike.  Way more than motor mods.  Most humans can't even come close to maxing out a 250, I think only a few pro's can max out a 125.  The suspension on my 450 after I revalved it was like a Cadillac.  I can't wait until I can do the same with my 250.  The only reason I did motor before suspension on my 250 is because in stock form the 06 250 is unrideable.

Revalved suspension is the best money you can spend on a bike.  Way more than motor mods.  Most humans can't even come close to maxing out a 250, I think only a few pro's can max out a 125.  The suspension on my 450 after I revalved it was like a Cadillac.  I can't wait until I can do the same with my 250.  The only reason I did motor before suspension on my 250 is because in stock form the 06 250 is unrideable.

Well said I agree, for 95% of riders suspension will hands down make you faster than motor mods, your weight is a very small part of suspension, when you can tell them the style and type of rider you are and they dial in your setup to be faster or slower harder or softer, and also oil viscosity and springs. Very much personalizes your bike

I'm a standard riden, 82 kg naked and novice ... Do I really need it, will change my way to go? Cheers

The stock KYB suspension is very good the way it is, and it  fine for 95% of any casual weekend rider just out play riding. You don't need to send it off to get a revalve until you have exhausted all the available adjustments provided.  Start by getting the right REAR spring for your weight. The stock rear spring is a 4.6kg/mm, which is fine for a rider weighing between 60-70 kg. But for your weight, I think you will need a 5.0 kg/mm shock spring to be able to get your sag set right @ 100mm rider sag, 25-30 mm static. Right now, if you set your sag w the stock springs, I'd bet in order to get close to a 100mm rider sag, your  static sag is probably measuring between 10-15mm. And, if you try to get 25mm static sag, I'd bet your rider sag is 110-115mm.

 

100mm rider, 25-30mm static are the correct sag numbers that tells you when you are in the ball park for the right rear spring for your weight.

 

I'd leave the stock fork springs in there for woods riding. With it being a softer spring rate for your weight, the forks should sag between 60mm-65mm rider sag, much better suited for woods. 

 

Once you have the right spring, and the right sag set, then set all your clickers, forks and shock, to the stock factory setting. From there, go out 4 clicks all around to set them up a bit softer. 4 clicks per each: fork compression, fork rebound. SHock compression, shock rebound.

 

For the 5th adjustment:

On the top of the rear shock, there's a round red nut that can be rotated 3-312 turns from closed. It's the hi speed compression adjuster. Stock, it's 1 full circle out, if I recall. Whatever the adjustment is that's stock, go 1 additional turns out.

 

Now go ride and see if that helps you any. 

Thanks a lot, sorted now ... Going to ride next week :-)

ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1381057830.964953.jpg

Edited by Giolomba_UK

Minibikedat you were right ....

I have 100mm race sag and 4.5mm static sag ... Assuming I'm a novice riding woods which of the two is more important?

Thanks ... Of course I'm happy to hear from others too...

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