The Hooligan Mod Thread

So I thought I would do a write up on the “Hooligan mod”.  This will be the first post  in the series as I build up what I emailed out.  I was an early adopter.  I had only ever seen 1 set posted on TT and that started the changes.  At the time SM rims were stupid expensive so this was a great deal.  It continually freaks people out to see it.  This was really the genesis of the mods on my DRZ.  Now I have a home built carbon fairing, Eddie 470, and so many other changes.  Good luck.  May the mod's be with you.

 

I have followed lots of guy’s doing it and there has been great success.  The big thing here is it was always just easier to email out a package rather than spend the time doing the write up.  Well I am not spending the time here anymore so I thought I would do a write up and turn it over.  To help the collective.

 

Part of this is parts.  What year and model you get drives what you need to do.  The basic information and approach is here.  The fiche on parts websites are your greatest allie.  YOU need to figure it out based on what YOU buy.  If you want a no brain cookie cutter mod, buy SM rims and walk away now.  This is not cheaper, nor easier, nor lighter.  It is simply a different approach to make a unique mod.  The unique part means YOU need to think it out and maybe take a chance.  Lets put it this way.  GS wheels used here were 7 years old when I started.  They are 17 years old now.  The GSXR rim I used is 24 years old....

 

Rims

GS500 front and rear up to 98

GSX Katana front and rear up to 97

GSXR (750 & 1100) rear 88-89   90(?) 91 (nooo)

Brake caliper bracket 99 to 2005 RM 125 or 250

Spacers 89 GSXR750 and they were then cut to length 1 OF 20.8x27 (ID X length) 09180-20103 another part number is 09180-20104

 

Rear build up (GSX600 Katana rim, GS500 cush drive) 17” with a 3.5” width

 

On the cush drive;

 

The retainer (spacer) or mushroom shaped spacer for the rear hub to cush drive was 64733-27A00 again cut to length

 

This is the short cush drive (GS500) some bikes had a deeper cush drive so there is a very big difference in fit. 

 

Trim the seal side down to where it is approximately flush with the bearing face this is about 0.23” removed.  This will still leave enough clearance for the head of a low profile bolt from the swingarm.  I just used a belt sander.

 

The stock sprocket bolt head is notched and there is a matching face inside the hub.  Drill or reverse spot face the internal bolt mount so that a locking nut can be installed internally.

 

Most street bikes were a 530 chain.  The DRZ is 520 so it took some searching but a 520 sprocket that fit the cush drive hub was 39T   474S-39.  That's a sprocket specialists part number. 

 

DSCF0005.jpg

 

Rim (GSX and GS rear 3.5 inch)

 

File (grind) the mounting face for the disk brake by 0.125”.  That dimension gave me a sprocket to disk (outside to outside) dimension of 6.5” same as the stock DRZ hub.

 

For the disk brake I bought a GSX600 Katana brake on e-bay.  It is 250mm, the RM caliper is set up for a 240mm.  My father in law has a lathe so we turned it down to 240mm.  We also took the thickness of the disk to 0.180 ish ( removed 0.040) this step is not required I did it mainly because the disk was a little rough and it reduced the disk thickness to match the stock RM.  I do not know of another source which will fit this rim bolt pattern. 

 

I trimmed the GSXR bearing spacers down to fit the rim and cush drive and install the new bearings.

 

Spacers - disk side was 0.77” and the sprocket side was 0.27” (0.75 and 0.3 probably okay)

 

DSCF0006.jpg

 

Rear build up (Bandit 400) 17” with a 4.0” width
(This also likely applies to 94-99 GSXR 600 / 750)

 

(caveat; information supplied by smcalpac)

 

Worked great, no machining to the wheel required at all.

Just had to clearance the caliper bracket a little more, space the sprocket out about 5/16" (could maybe use a bit more but oh well, the chain would not be straight then) and make new spacers which were about 3/16" wider. All the bearings, etc are the same.

 

 

Rear build up (GSXR 750 / 1100 (88-90) rim, GS500 cush drive) 17” with a 4.5” width

 

Bearings for the GS rear rim and cush drive

they were 17x47x14 they need to be 20x47x14 which is a bearing p/n of 6204-2RS-1

the thrust bearing stays as a 25x62x17 which is a bearing p/n of  6305-2RS

 

Modify the cush drive as above.

 

Rim

The GSXR rear has 20mm axles already so no modification required.  The GSXR disk is also 240mm.  I bought a brand new knock off of the EBC wave rotor for $59 shipped.  Good so far.

 

The cush drive side spacer is sized for bolt clearance so it won’t change, although for ease I reduced it to 0.25”.  The basic hub is way wide so you need to remove around 0.75 from the disk mounts to get the hub down to 6.5”.  I ended up taking the disk mounts down virtually flush and removed 0.1” from the bearing “sleeve”.  The internal bearing spacing is also slightly larger so the disk side spacer should be reduced to 0.34”.

 

DSCF1560Medium.jpg

DSCF1616Medium.jpg

Photo0013_zps9609e419.jpg

Photo0014_zps14a9e67f.jpg

 

 

Front build up (GS500 and GSX600 / 750) 17” with a 3.0” width

 

Bearings required for a GS front rim

they were 15x42x13 (ID X OD X width) they need to be 20x42x13 which is a bearing p/n of 6004-2RS-1

 

I hollowed out the center of the hub to fit the bigger OD spacer.  Fitted the new bearings and spacer.  I also swapped the brake disk from right side to left side of the hub to keep the proper rim rotation.  The GS has a nice little cover for the opposite holes which does not fit with the GS rotor spacing.  I ended up with a fabbed flat "plate" cover for the open side and when I later powder coated the rims I did it as well.

 

The front brake bracket (next post) in the original hooligan mod is spot on for a 310mm disk.  With the 0.6 disk offset the final spacer dimensions were 1.42” for the disk side and 1.08 for the other.  With a 0.30 offset disk I can just swap the spacers from side to side and install the pretty rim cover thing…..

 

Also in this case the wheel is offset in the forks.  This is about 0.25” - 0.30” to the right.  If a reduced offset brake disk is used (Kawi has one that works with a tweak) it will be virtually centered.

 

A note on the rear caliper

 

As stated earlier the rear caliper support I bought was from 01 RM 250.  The existing DRZ caliper bolts on.  That era disk also bolts directly on the DRZ rear hub.  I found a blow out on Moose disks and installed it on my dirt rim hub.  1 less thing to mess with when changing wheels.  While you're at it you may as well do a stainless line and the CR master cylinder mod.  Then you're all fixed up.

Edited by Plane Dr

Here is the next bit.

 

The front brake bracket.  So this is for a 310mm disk.  Most off the shelf brackets are 320mm.  I personally haven't tried one, since I have one that works.  Other than a slight loss in pad contact area I don't see an issue.  In fact my bracket is out a little since it is hand made.  An off the shelf 320mm is likely fine.  Mine is also starting to show some corrosion so I may just buy one.  There are a couple that are a single plate and long spacers for 310mm.  I don't care for them I think there would be too much flex.  My opinion only.

 

The picture with the wrench includes the rear wheel side spacers just so you know.

 

As it is this bracket works stoppies are but a squeeze away.

 

FBrkt_zpsaec7b65c.jpg

DSCF0007_zps0fd5188e.jpg

 

This is a modified Kawi disk (notice no offset).  The hyabusa disk might also work with an adapter/mounting plate.

0504111258a_zps69506fb7.jpg

Edited by Plane Dr

Plagiarized from Thor13

what up .for starters these are only approximate specs a place to start.  Please use a micrometer there so much more accurate then every thing else.


ok lets get started the rear rotor I didn't touch.  I had to completely remove the cush drive bearing, and when it was all said and done had the cushdrive welded to the rim at a propshop.  I believe it or not the axel shafts are the same front and rear.  The front rim was a littlie tricky since it has shouldered bolts for the rotor.  I used chrome spacers and figured them in to my milling depth
if you have the cbr spacers that’s all you need, had the shave them a bit to make perfect.  Sprocket specialist makes the sprocket you need.  Remember you need a 520 chain conversion sprocket as the cbr has a wider chain.  I had to remove the sprocket studs replaced with bolts. had shave the bolt heads to clear the chain block.  The rear brake rotor is same size no trouble there.  The front i used a
ebc
280 kit it gave me a relocater bracket and rotor for dirt set up.  That about covers it.  Oh and remember patience makes perfect and yes the spacers work.  Width shouldn’t change the hub work though because 4.5 and 5 use the same swing arm in 94'and heres's some pics of them on the sinister-z

 

f2wheel_zps849051f4.jpg

 

tnat1

Re: 1993 Cbr 600f2 Hooligan Wheels Done!

 

Front wheel, Disc side machined down 4mm, other side machined downflush to bearing, EBC 280mm rotor caliper bracket. Rear wheel, removed cush drive bearing, machine down the outside of the cush drive flat to the outside of the sprocket surface & machined down the cush drive inner flanges about 7mm & sloted flanges to match wheel cush compartments walls. I bored out cush to fit over wheel hub. I left the wheel hub & bearing alone. I also had to machine down the entire wheel on the cush drive down 5mm & wheel cush compartments the same. I then had the cush drive welded to the wheel with the cush drive flanges interlocking the wheel cush compartments, no chance for forward or backward movement on accelleration or deceleration. I also machined down the rear wheel disc side 3mm to bring the disc in toward center more. Thats it! change out about 15min Max. Having a 280mm front disc on my dirt wheels makes the entire setup an easier change.

Edited by Plane Dr

good write up, still confusing though, i dont understand some of the machine shop lingo..

 

so the easiest rear swap is the bandit?

is it a must to change the bearings?

is it a must to have a store baught/home made relocation bracket for the brake?

DRZ Wheels  ($315 with no rubber)

 Front Rim (From GS)        

42.53

Bearings

were   2 of 15x42x13

need p/n  20x42x13   6004-2RS-1 (12)

                   

SPACER 89 gsxr 750

 1 OF 20.8x27  09180-20103

                   

Rear Rim (from GSX 600)

                 

cush drive

                   

Rotor

                   

Bearings

were 17x47x14

need p/n 20x47x14 6204-2RS-1

 

need p/n 25x62x17 6305-2RS

                

Spacer (89 GSXR)

2 of     20.8X27          09180-20104

1 of     retainer           64733-27A00

       

Sprocket (530 to 520 conversion)

           39T   474S-39

                   

Rear Bracket

               

caliper support   01 RM 250

Edited by 707LAKE

do you have any other info on the bandit400 being very similar to the gsx 600/750 94-99?? 

the specifics im interested in are, whether or not no machining is needed for the gsx 600/750 94-99 setup?

The format got buggered coming from excel. I will clean it up more when I get time. But the life of an adult. Wife and kids got up so I couldn't sit in front of the computer longer

So I spent a bunch of time cleaning this up and clarifying it.  I wish I had specific information but very few folks took detailed notes and fewer still got back to me.  Doing this is time consuming and is a fun mod in and of itself.  Improvising unique mods are always a trip.  All the gents around other parts of the pond will have a better go for parts as the US and Canada were so limited in what got imported. 

 

As it stands I have sent out over 100+ emails with information.  There has to be others who can contribute.  Since I don't spend as much time here anymore my replies may be spread out.  PM me and when I do log in I'll happily reply just not sure what the delay will be.  My DRZ is going nowhere soon, I still enjoy it and happily flog it, but I seriously out of bits to mod so there isn't too much new info here.

 

If you have information to add please do I know someone down the road will appreciate it.  Now off to work.

Edited by Plane Dr

Hope you dont mind a couple other pics as well.

My wheels, GS 500 front, using the stock rotor side spacer but built a custom rotor carrier and DRZ400 320mm SM kit. Trail tech bolt and pick up in the pic as well. Wheel is dead center in the forks with the stock spacer

 

 

apcwea.jpg

1zmi7n5.jpg

 

 

 

Rear is most likely a GSX-R750 as outlined above, not entirely sure, I found it at a local bike salvage. As a tip, the 2 bolts that hold the lower chain guide in place can be turned around to keep you from scratching your sexy wheels.  GS500 sprocket carrier, I used the stock sprocket bolts just turned around and cut a few threads off.

 

 

2zhjixl.jpg

17r2tv.jpg

6giuzc.jpg

2l6kbm.jpg

Those 2 bolts on the carrier are a duh moment. It is a PITA wiggling things in.

i keep reading it and i never figured it out. what does the "cush drive" do? 

Standard item on street bikes. Rubber/poly urethane dampers inside the hub. They isolate the drive sprocket from the hub. The rubber then helps cushion the drive line and the rear wheel.

Every time the cylinder fires it sends a "pulse" through the driveline. Conversely every time you stab the brake it sends a pulse through.

The Japanese market DRZ has them. Not a dirt bike thing as they add weight and complexity. They do arguable extend driveline life.

i keep reading it and i never figured it out. what does the "cush drive" do? 

 

There is a view of a Honda CBR600 F2 rear wheel and hub.  The item marked as number "3" is one of the rubber cushions (there are 4 total)  that absorb some of the harshness from the drive system.  Since there is some movement allowed, it buffers the initial movement and puts less initial stress on the chain, transmission, etc.  Also as Plane Dr mentioned, it buffers the pulse of the motor.  The sprocket is mounted on a hub that sits inside the rubber cushions, independent of the wheel.  The stock DRZ wheels have the sprocket bolted solid to the hub of the wire wheels.

Honda%2520F2%2520rear.jpg

The Japanese market DRZ has them. Not a dirt bike thing as they add weight and complexity. They do arguable extend driveline life.

 This is interesting. i would like to get a japanese hub..

just wanted to reply here (already on advrider) too.

 

feel free to copy/paste whatever is wanted or needed from that BR thread. again, i'm giving a big THANK YOU to PlaneDr for posting the original I went from here, and providing a TON of information along the way. 

 

between everything he's included in this thread and other howto's, there shouldn't be any questions left. hell, he even gave a blueprint for a caliper adapter ! sweet ! 

 

the only plug i'll make for who to buy from is my buddy's adapters "yamahamer" for the front caliper. everything else i've used is available at bearing stores or somewhere online. 

 

again, yall make sure to give planedr a big thank you if/when you begin and finish this project :)

just wanted to reply here (already on advrider) too.

 

feel free to copy/paste whatever is wanted or needed from that BR thread. again, i'm giving a big THANK YOU to PlaneDr for posting the original I went from here, and providing a TON of information along the way. 

 

between everything he's included in this thread and other howto's, there shouldn't be any questions left. hell, he even gave a blueprint for a caliper adapter ! sweet ! 

 

the only plug i'll make for who to buy from is my buddy's adapters "yamahamer" for the front caliper. everything else i've used is available at bearing stores or somewhere online. 

 

again, yall make sure to give planedr a big thank you if/when you begin and finish this project :)

anybody needing the relocation brackets.. hit up "yamahamer" ..heres his website

http://greenpondmoto.com/

Would GFS 1200S bandit wheels work ? Mods. Required ?

Edited by Masshole DRZ

How wide is the rear wheel? If it is wider than 4.5 inches, that is a problem. There are a lot of sport bike wheels that can be used but there will be some machine work and new spacers required

Not sure, ill have to ask the seller to measure the wheels . I like the look, and affordability of using sport bike wheels . I have a machinist who could do the work for me , I just want a good starting platform to work with .

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