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New DRZ time to jet

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Just picked up a 2000 kicker from a buddy. It has an FCR carb with the CE still on it. I plan on getting rid of this. Also has the 3x3 mod, power bomb header, and powercore pipe. Currently the bike runs great while the choke is out but when it goes in it does within 10 seconds.

What should I be jetted at? Also needle position, pilot screw etc.

 

Currently have 65, 45, 142

Also, I'm at 4,500 feet. Plan on going from 4-8k on rides.

Thanks in advance for any tips guys!

Edited by SierraSmoker

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Buy a brand new pilot jet.

 

Get an extended fuel screw. Stainless or brass - No alloy ones.. Fine adjust with a hot engine to mgive you a perfect idle.

 

See what the current jetting is in the bike, make notes.

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#45 pilot, that is the only jet you need unless you can identify a running issue and provide us with the currecnt jets installed.

 

Just took the whole carb apart and cleaned everything thoroughly.  Checked all my jets and i'm running a 142, 45, 65.

 

Still no luck on the idle at all.  Will run like piss with the choke out but right when the choke goes in its all over.  I made sure to thoroughly check the pilot jet for plugs.  

 

Seems like the only issue is the darn choke! Any help guys? 

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Did you Clean the pilot jet circuit ?

Should I use some canned air and spray it through where the jet goes in to?

Is the pilot jet something suzuki dealers usually stock?

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Should I use some canned air and spray it through where the jet goes in to?

Is the pilot jet something suzuki dealers usually stock?

I recommend spray brake cleaner and mono filament wire , not standard wire .

Most dealers would order them in and charge you accordingly , I prefer to avoid dealers .

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Use brake parts cleaner or eletrical parts cleaner. DO NOT use carb parts cleaner, it is too strong a slovent.

 

Any good dirt bike dealer will carry FCR jets. Same carb is used on 99% of the MX bikes out there and most use a #45 pilot. Cost is about $5. Only buy an OEW/Kehien jet, do not buy a off brand one.

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Use brake parts cleaner or eletrical parts cleaner. DO NOT use carb parts cleaner, it is too strong a slovent.

Any good dirt bike dealer will carry FCR jets. Same carb is used on 99% of the MX bikes out there and most use a #45 pilot. Cost is about $5. Only buy an OEW/Kehien jet, do not buy a off brand one.

Sounds good will throw a new pilot in and report back. What about compressed air cans to blow out the pilot circuit?

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Most cans of compressed air have little power. Solvent will wash out debris.

 

Just got back from the shop, they insisted that my carb didn't exist until I showed them and proved them wrong.  Seems to be I have a really small and recessed pilot jet compared to other FCR carbs that have long ones...  Are they interchangeable?

 

Mine is close to this

 48-0501.jpg

 

Where other FCR Pilot jets are like this  

$T2eC16dHJH!FFmCFbbkdBRzS93E,lg~~60_35.J

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No. It WILL be an issue. I was unaware until I looked it up. You have an old, three screw style float bowl. You must use the short pilot jet.

Thanks for the clear up. I ordered a shorty from my dealer.

What clip should my needle be on?

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......

What clip should my needle be on?

LOL, the one that gives the best performance! 

 

Clip posiition affects operation (steady state, under load) from about 1/4 throttle to about 7/8ths throttle. If you run out of clip spots, then you must buy a different needle. The same area is affected by needle taper. Stock postion is #3 (from the top/flat). Typically, you will not notice with the seat of the pants, a single slot change, so I rec. moving at least two. It will be definitive if it is better or worse.

 

Remeember, never try to fix what is not broken. Too often, I see a running bike no longer run because of a 'repair'. Make a single change and get what ever it is you are doing, done and correct BEFORE trying the next thing. A lot of guys change many things at once, then have a problem and no idea what one thing fouled up the works. So for now, just get the pilot/idle issues perfected. Then consider messing with the needle, if there really is a issue.

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LOL, the one that gives the best performance! 

 

Clip posiition affects operation (steady state, under load) from about 1/4 throttle to about 7/8ths throttle. If you run out of clip spots, then you must buy a different needle. The same area is affected by needle taper. Stock postion is #3 (from the top/flat). Typically, you will not notice with the seat of the pants, a single slot change, so I rec. moving at least two. It will be definitive if it is better or worse.

 

Remeember, never try to fix what is not broken. Too often, I see a running bike no longer run because of a 'repair'. Make a single change and get what ever it is you are doing, done and correct BEFORE trying the next thing. A lot of guys change many things at once, then have a problem and no idea what one thing fouled up the works. So for now, just get the pilot/idle issues perfected. Then consider messing with the needle, if there really is a issue.

 

 

Got the new pilot jet in and tried again...  Same result.  Seems to sputter alittle better right before it dies when I take the choke off.  Awesome.  Also a note that my idle screw nob is basically seized and doesnt do anything so no adjustment there.  Could it be my slide is too low too idle?  

 

Also now my float bowl is leaking from the brass fitting on the bottom when the gas is on.  

 

Any thoughts?  Making no progress and feeling like theres no end in sight.  Bike still runs great on choke.

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UPDATE

The idle screw controlled by the big black knob was not touching the throttle arm. So simple yet overlooked. Idles great now.

The float bowl leak fitting is now leaking now. Any idea on how to fix this?

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