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clutch lever engagement point (shorten push rod)?

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2011 350 sxf. the clutch pull is just fine, not hard to pull at all. 
But the engagement has always sucked from day 1.
with the bike up to operating temp. the range of engagement is very short.
it's all the way at the end and only requires about 10mm of pull. 

Would shorting the push rod just a bit bring the engagement point a little farther back in the stroke so it's not all the way out at the end?

 

Thanks

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2011 350 sxf. the clutch pull is just fine, not hard to pull at all. 

But the engagement has always sucked from day 1.

with the bike up to operating temp. the range of engagement is very short.

it's all the way at the end and only requires about 10mm of pull. 

Would shorting the push rod just a bit bring the engagement point a little farther back in the stroke so it's not all the way out at the end?

 

Thanks

 

Thats what the adjustment screw is for...?!

 

On 2 years old bike i would still do a replacement kit for the piston (etc) in the fluid container. Does not cost much but gives you better feeling when replaced. Also the lever can have been bent slightly during crashes.

 

Those 2 things made my clutch take all the way in only and very short stroke. Did the replacement (incl new fluid) and all goood again!

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the adjustment screw changes the reach. it has no effect on the amount of pull to modulate the clutch.

The bike has only 13 hours on it, so it doesn't need a rebuild. i have had magura and brembo hydro's from 06 to this 2011 and i no what a failing master or slave feels like and this isn't it.

 

It doesn't matter if you adjust the lever closer to the bar it still only takes a very small amount of pull to modulate the clutch and it's  all out at the end of the stroke .

 

 

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the adjustment screw changes the reach. it has no effect on the amount of pull to modulate the clutch.

The bike has only 13 hours on it, so it doesn't need a rebuild. i have had magura and brembo hydro's from 06 to this 2011 and i no what a failing master or slave feels like and this isn't it.

 

It doesn't matter if you adjust the lever closer to the bar it still only takes a very small amount of pull to modulate the clutch and it's  all out at the end of the stroke .

Im aware of that it does not change actual pull. Just change the position of the lever to get more or less leverage on the lever. I have my clutch lever several cm inside the end of the handlebar to grip it with one finger exactly where i get most feeling.

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i have always moved my clutch perch inward a far as possible and cut my lever so it's a 2 finger lever.

i can no have the lever hitting my the other 2 fingers that on the bar.

 

A push rod is only 12.00, so when it get the bike back together, (waiting on a cam and reflash) I'm going to 

shorten the rod about 5 thousand and see how works.

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I may be wrong in thinking. But if you are trying to change the pick up point, won't shortening the rod just bring the lever in? ?same as adjusting the screw?

What you want is the hydraulic equivalent of "cable slack" that you would have with a normal clutch?

Which to my knowledge is not possible? (If it is let me know! Cos I'd love to get the front brake engagement on my 13sxf closer to the bar!)

I'd say clutch springs may be an option. If not some form of master cylinder ratio changing kit (if they exist)

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And just cos everyone else said their set up, I run my brake perches/levers in as far as possible and use single fingers for both. (Old MTB habit)

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