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Bolt identification

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Your link didn't work right, but on the left crankcase cover view, definite on #10 for the engine oil and pretty sure on #26 for the tranny (it is a long bolt, but it's odd it doesn't show a washer as it takes a crush washer).

 

Jim.

Edited by JimDettman

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Your link didn't work right, but on the left crankcase cover view, definite on #10 for the engine oil and pretty sure on #26 for the tranny (it is a long bolt, but it's odd it doesn't show a washer as it takes a crush washer).

 

Jim.

 

Hmmm, works fine for me. But yeah, i definitely thought it was 26 but the no washer threw me off as well. Can use the same washer as the oil drain bolt correct?

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Yes, I have a fuel line copper washer kit I carry on service truck. Last tranny service I did, I used one and it worked just fine. Just make sure the ID is not too loose on bolt.

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Yes, I have a fuel line copper washer kit I carry on service truck. Last tranny service I did, I used one and it worked just fine. Just make sure the ID is not too loose on bolt.

 

Thanks, changing the oil tomorrow. Getting sick of paying $4 a pop for washers at the local shop.

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Thanks, changing the oil tomorrow. Getting sick of paying $4 a pop for washers at the local shop.

 

 FYI:

 

http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/138_144/products_id/3420

 

TT has them too:

 

https://www.thumpertalk.com/shop/cart.php?search=crush+washer&m=search_results

 

but their all universal kits and I'm not sure which one it is.  You need M6 copper and M8 aluminum.   TT is also more expensive.

 

Jim.

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 FYI:

 

http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/138_144/products_id/3420

 

TT has them too:

 

https://www.thumpertalk.com/shop/cart.php?search=crush+washer&m=search_results

 

but their all universal kits and I'm not sure which one it is.  You need M6 copper and M8 aluminum.   TT is also more expensive.

 

Jim.

 

Oh, nice! Thanks, i've been looking on bike bandit and rocky mountain atv with no luck. Didnt even think to look there.

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 FYI:

 

http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/138_144/products_id/3420

 

TT has them too:

 

https://www.thumpertalk.com/shop/cart.php?search=crush+washer&m=search_results

 

but their all universal kits and I'm not sure which one it is.  You need M6 copper and M8 aluminum.   TT is also more expensive.

 

Jim.

 

While the list price might be more expensive on TT, the Thumpertalk store will price match, will ship to most of California in a day AND no taxes for California residents. MORE importantly, you will be helping to fund the awesome forum where you can get help on a daily basis.

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Are we talking about the oil and trans DRAIN or the trans check hole?

 

The Drains both use the same crush washer, if you tighten the bolts correctly they last a LONG time.

 

The trans check hole has a smaller copper crush, you should not have to be removing that all the time though, just measure, or add a full quart.

 

I keep at least a half dozen around cause every bike that come through the shop (unless it's a regular) has crush washers that are smashed to oblivion. The washer should slide off of the bolt, if it does not it is crushed too much and should be replaced.

 

To remove a crush washer that is stuck to the drain bolt, hold the washer with some needle nose or other plier and spin off with drill driver. Take care to tighten drain bolt properly. By hand bring it down to the case and tighten, use a 1/4 drive socket and apply 1/8 turn past snug against engine case. In other words if the wrench handle is pointing at 9 o'clock tighten until the handle points at 10:30. 

Edited by Dust_Devil

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Are we talking about the oil and trans DRAIN or the trans check hole?

 

The Drains both use the same crush washer, if you tighten the bolts correctly they last a LONG time.

 

The trans check hole has a smaller copper crush, you should not have to be removing that all the time though, just measure, or add a full quart.

 

I keep at least a half dozen around cause every bike that come through the shop (unless it's a regular) has crush washers that are smashed to oblivion. The washer should slide off of the bolt, if it does not it is crushed too much and should be replaced.

 

To remove a crush washer that is stuck to the drain bolt, hold the washer with some needle nose or other plier and spin off with drill driver. Take care to tighten drain bolt properly. By hand bring it down to the case and tighten, use a 1/4 drive socket and apply 1/8 turn past snug against engine case. In other words if the wrench handle is pointing at 9 o'clock tighten until the handle points at 10:30. 

 

 Yes, the check bolt is the 6mm, which you skip.  I don't know about using them a long time.   If you torque them to spec, they are crushed down to where they won't slid off right on the first shot.

 

Jim.

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 Yes, the check bolt is the 6mm, which you skip.  I don't know about using them a long time.   If you torque them to spec, they are crushed down to where they won't slid off right on the first shot.

 

Jim.

 

That check bolt should be pulled and sealed with red loctite and a fresh crush, no need to ever use it again.

 

 If you use a large phillips (#3) like intended to tighten it you will not over torque.

 

Torque any of the other outer bolts like that check hole and the oil drains is a bad idea and WILL end with stripped threads eventually.

 

The engine covers can be torqued to 88in lbs but those are the only ones I would do that to, NOT the drains.

Edited by Dust_Devil

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 FYI:

 

http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/138_144/products_id/3420

 

TT has them too:

 

https://www.thumpertalk.com/shop/cart.php?search=crush+washer&m=search_results

 

but their all universal kits and I'm not sure which one it is.  You need M6 copper and M8 aluminum.   TT is also more expensive.

 

Jim.

Just go to Napa Auto parts and get a copper washer kit for $5.00 and be done.

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