Mystery Drz, Could use a few pointers

Hey TT, got a very cheap kind of beat up drz. Guy I bought it from only had it a few weeks and didnt know anything about what the original owner did. I think its a 2001, kick only. I havent worked on biked before and was thinking of taking it on over the winter.I got the cyclepedia manual to help, known problems are

  1. Bike wont start unless pushed
  2. Trying to kick choke on or off w/o touching throttle floods, strong gas smell
  3. When trying to kick oil "flows" out of behind the counter sproket

I pushed it on and rode it the first day, after it sputtered out the and warmed up it was great, an absolute blast to ride seemed to have plenty of power. But then i noticed a good amount of oil burning off the engine and went home right away. My intentions are to fix it up and get tired and have a street legal dual sport/ supermoto kicker with tire changes. 

 

First question is whats the blue thing at the bottom of the carb? I havent seen any other carbs with that on it, Also i found there is a nail shoved in the bottom of one of the hoses?? But the carb looks ok, a little dirty on the outside but looks clean inside so far. One thing i was worried about is there was only one cable connected to the carb, the second one was non existent. 

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Theres an ebc brake sticker  but i think they look stock, looks like its been dropped plenty 
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This is where the oil leaks from, behind the sprocket in the center, drips on to shifter 
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Looks like a fmf pipe of some kind, not sure if header is oem or not 
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I thought all the drz's had cooling fans on the radiators, guess i was wrong
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Not sure what this bracket it called, hopefully it wasnt from wrecking too hard 
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Last two things, should there be more coolant in the reserve? And i found this stamp on the engine, it starts with k4, could that be a lead to its year origin?
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Just moved to the mountains and stepped up in cc, hopefully i can get these things fixed over winter and be enjoying some colorado supermoto come spring. Any help indentifying things or where to go from here, especially with the oil leak would be much appreciated. Thanks all, Tony. 

1. Adjust your valves. And if it has the ACCT replace it with the MCCT ASAP.

2. Clean your carb. Float bowl is sticking.

3. Your CS nut is loose, read the FAQ on the loc-tite fixes, there is one for there.

Congrats on the purchase, welcome to the forums.

Edit, I believe thats a hot start knob. I could be wrong I've never dealt with slant body FCR's from E models.

Edited by Brandon B

one failed

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1. Adjust your valves. And if it has the ACCT replace it with the MCCT ASAP. 2. Clean your carb. Float bowl is sticking. 3. Your CS nut is loose, read the FAQ on the loc-tite fixes, there is one for there. Congrats on the purchase, welcome to the forums. Edit, I believe thats a hot start knob. I could be wrong I've never dealt with slant body FCR's from E models.

Ok Great thanks, Ill get started on those things one by one, And as for the know hmm ok the guy thought it was a high alititude mode of some kind, ill have o ty and dig up more info

Any idea on what the heck the nail sealing off a line in the carb is all about?

Edited by Tony_Pine

I can't see your image. And I would pull your jets and needle out to figure out what he jetted for.

Any idea on what the heck the nail sealing off a line in the carb is all about?

Can you identify what hose it is in? Looks like the overflow hose. Previous owner saw fuel coming out and blocked it off instead off properly fixing the issue. Would cause the bike to be difficult to start, flooding, and not to run properly. 

If that's the case there could be a few possible causes. Simple as float height out of adjustment, or gunk/dirt making it stick. Could be float valve or seat, couple other causes could cause that as well. 

 

The picture of the rear brake look like EBC pads. Can't see how much pad material is left from the picture but from the looks of the rotor marks they are probably due!  

 

The two throttle cable system is common pull/return. Previous owner maybe had one fray and break and found it still worked with the one so removed it. May as well replace them while your in there!

 

To me that looks like the stock header.

 

While your at it you should change out the countershaft seal, easy job and you don't know if its ever been done.

 

There should of been a odometer cable guide attached to the fork there, looks like the cable isn't there.

 

I haven't had any of my E's come with a fan.

 

If I remember correctly, there is a marking on the overflow bottle. Almost looks like I can see it on yours, a small arrow on the bottom right? I can't recall that exactly.

 

And +1 on the MCCT suggestion from Brandon.

 

There are a lot of DRZ experts on this forum that can help you out more then I can, Its been awhile since I've had one but would love to get another one day. I'm a little rusty on all my DRZ facts so correct me if I'm wrong on anything!

Good luck with everything, good find!

Edited by small_and_fast

Double post

Edited by small_and_fast

It was coming out the lead attached to the very bottom of the carb. The carb is upside down in my lap, the vertical stud is the one, not sure if thats the overflow or nt. Also im a little bit of a hippie, can i use a degreaser like simple green to clean my carb instead of standard carb cleaner?

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Took the carb apart tonight, Super clean everywhere inside. No gunk at all in the bowl or and stickyness around the float and all the jets were clean, some gaskets could use replacing. Couldnt find any reason for the carb issues other then maybe that random plugged up hose. Yup got a throttle cable set ordered. Ok great ill add countershaft seal and pads to the list.Ok ive never messed with the guts, ill have to figure out how to locate if a mcct is there already or not. Ill also look into the odometer cable thing, one i get its mechanically checked and sound ill start working on installing a trail tech and the stuff to hopefully get it legal. Thanks so much! This has helped so much already

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