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Bought a DRZ400SM some questions about upgrades on bike

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is there any way to get the popping like the SSW has? My Yoshi pops a tiny bit but i think it might be more plugged. My street bike has a ton of popping with the Delkevic exhaust I bought for it. <3 afterfire pops

When I bought my drz it came with yosh rs3 slip on.  The bike backfired terribly, it was more annoying (terrifying for people around me) than anything.  A mrd with a proper jetting doesn't pop all that much.

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hmm i would say its got a big bore. Tge stock bores have a darker hint to them

Alright, well that said... Should I be running 93 Octane, 91 or just straight 87 with this? Ive been running 93 after my first fillup ~2500 miles (which I didnt think about the possible BB and used 87). It has around 2900 miles on it and seems to be doing fine aside from the battery dying when I leave my keys in it forgetfully ^^;

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Alright, well that said... Should I be running 93 Octane, 91 or just straight 87 with this? Ive been running 93 after my first fillup ~2500 miles (which I didnt think about the possible BB and used 87). It has around 2900 miles on it and seems to be doing fine aside from the battery dying when I leave my keys in it forgetfully ^^;

recomend you run 91

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recomend you run 91

I noticed when idling for a while and not moving anywhere, the bike's coolant temp is coming on. It takes a fair bit of time and will go away as soon as im stopped. I first noticed it when I took it off-road the first time and was going slow along some train tracks. The fan didnt seem to wanna kick on and I wasnt sure if this is a normal thing with these bikes or not. Any ideas guys? I just changed the coolant out with fresh 50/50 premix, and it seems that it lasts a bit longer now before it does it, but it still comes on if im at a very long light.

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I noticed when idling for a while and not moving anywhere, the bike's coolant temp is coming on. It takes a fair bit of time and will go away as soon as im stopped. I first noticed it when I took it off-road the first time and was going slow along some train tracks. The fan didnt seem to wanna kick on and I wasnt sure if this is a normal thing with these bikes or not. Any ideas guys? I just changed the coolant out with fresh 50/50 premix, and it seems that it lasts a bit longer now before it does it, but it still comes on if im at a very long light.

buy the manuel overide switch for the fan so you can always put it on... Ssw sell it or go on ebay as ssw is down the drain atm ahaha

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Alright, well that said... Should I be running 93 Octane, 91 or just straight 87 with this? Ive been running 93 after my first fillup ~2500 miles (which I didnt think about the possible BB and used 87). It has around 2900 miles on it and seems to be doing fine aside from the battery dying when I leave my keys in it forgetfully ^^;

 

If the compression ratio is still stock (~11.3:1) then you can run 87 octane (US octane rating AKI/PON).  Running higher octane wont hurt "per se", other than your wallet.  Actually you want to run the lowest octane possible, while avoiding detonation for best power.

 

I noticed when idling for a while and not moving anywhere, the bike's coolant temp is coming on. It takes a fair bit of time and will go away as soon as im stopped. I first noticed it when I took it off-road the first time and was going slow along some train tracks. The fan didnt seem to wanna kick on and I wasnt sure if this is a normal thing with these bikes or not. Any ideas guys? I just changed the coolant out with fresh 50/50 premix, and it seems that it lasts a bit longer now before it does it, but it still comes on if im at a very long light.

 

You mean the coolant temp light is coming on (RED idiot light)?  If your coolant system is 100%, then the warning light should not come on.  Even when I ride hard, nasty single track, where I creep along in 1st gear I don't get the warning light.  Your radiator fan should come on before the warning light does.  Does the warning light only come on when you sit at idle for a while or ride really slowly under a higher load?  If so, then I’d say it probably just your radiator fan not working.

 

Disconnect the fan (under left side of tank) from main harness.  Carefully apply 12 V to the fan connector and see if it works.  Also look at the contacts for corrosion, clean as necessary and apply some dielectric compound.  Now reconnect to the main harness and check the connector at the radiator sensor (left radiator).  Disconnect the connector and short the connector (two contacts on harness-side), again the fan should come on.

 

If all that works, yet the fan still doesn’t come on, then it’s probably the temp sensor/switch in the radiator.

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If the compression ratio is still stock (~11.3:1) then you can run 87 octane (US octane rating AKI/PON).  Running higher octane wont hurt "per se", other than your wallet.  Actually you want to run the lowest octane possible, while avoiding detonation for best power.

 

 

You mean the coolant temp light is coming on (RED idiot light)?  If your coolant system is 100%, then the warning light should not come on.  Even when I ride hard, nasty single track, where I creep along in 1st gear I don't get the warning light.  Your radiator fan should come on before the warning light does.  Does the warning light only come on when you sit at idle for a while or ride really slowly under a higher load?  If so, then I’d say it probably just your radiator fan not working.

 

Disconnect the fan (under left side of tank) from main harness.  Carefully apply 12 V to the fan connector and see if it works.  Also look at the contacts for corrosion, clean as necessary and apply some dielectric compound.  Now reconnect to the main harness and check the connector at the radiator sensor (left radiator).  Disconnect the connector and short the connector (two contacts on harness-side), again the fan should come on.

 

If all that works, yet the fan still doesn’t come on, then it’s probably the temp sensor/switch in the radiator.

I think im going to run 91, it seems that 91 or 93 allows it to run the best. Im still not 100% positive it has a BB kit, but the guys who saw my video seem to think it does.

 

Ill definitely look at the fan connector and the rad switch. It comes on only when im idling or going very slowly. the fan just never turns on and eventually the light will come on. Thanks!

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See if your Yosh has a quiet insert inside,   if it does remove it,  and see how it does,  if you are really set on the MRD/SSW,  you can always sell your yosh system for around $300+,  add some more and get the MRD/SSW,   you can also get the shorty model,  its 12'' instead of 14'', so does not stick out as much,  sounds great too.  Thats what i have.

 

hmmm was unaware dave offered a shorty model... i simply ordered from wheeling.. (on week 2 now and still waiting to hear something) but seeing that is 12'' or 14" makes me think is it really that noticable of a difference...? kinda late at this point anyway but mind posting up a quick pick of your shorty model ron?

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hmmm was unaware dave offered a shorty model... i simply ordered from wheeling.. (on week 2 now and still waiting to hear something) but seeing that is 12'' or 14" makes me think is it really that noticable of a difference...? kinda late at this point anyway but mind posting up a quick pick of your shorty model ron?

Not my pic, (cant get on photobucket at the moment),  but here you go

 

1072199_10100941215608343_856146808_o.jpI like it cause it does not stick out too much,  cleaner look imo.

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