Bdeemo official rebuild thread 1996 xr600r PIC HEAVY

Ok I've got threads all over the place here so I figure I'll make just one for this bike. Picked it up like last May or June in Turlock CA, about 3 hours from me. It was a piece of crap. One kick and the muffler fell off. I'll start with pics.

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The Bike when I first got it.

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Muffler pipe totally broken off

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Ground down the JB Weld patch to find this nice lil hole here

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All the way ground down.

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Patched up

 

I rode it a bit, then I had to get ready for a trip to the dunes. So I went and got my registration all figured out, which required me going through the wiring just to make the lights work. What a piece of $&(# job was the wiring. Tusk enduro kit gone bad. Some idiot did it, and the kit is horrible to begin with. So I just got it so that it would work for inspection.

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The wiring mess, and crf fender and tool pack I put on. Also maier hand guards and rox risers.

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Got new Maier rear fender, installed the crappy lights and just freakin zip tied my plate on for a minute. Took my suspension out to get revalved and resprung by the local professional guy, really awesome guy who does all of the local racers. Paton Performance.

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Finally ready to ride the dunes. It was a total blast. This is where I absolutely fell in love with my xr and it's ungodly power! Freakin ripped past all the wussy crfs, yzfs, whatever f's... XR power. Only problem was that I was in such a hurry to get the bike to the dunes I didn't realize I didn't have my clutch adjusted tight enough, so it was slipping the whole 3 days of riding and finally burnt out on the third day.

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Filed down the notching and installed new EBC clutch kit.

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While oil was drained I put in a new ricky stator

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Found this, a chunk missing on stator cover, causing oil to leak into the chain. I patched it up with epoxy putty and sanded it flat.

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Timing cap thing on stator cover stripped, got a new one, $15 for the dumb thing

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To all of you thinking of riding dunes, let this be a reminder to you to bring a filter sock! and dont oil it lol.

 

 

After replacing the clutch and stator, I took the bike out for a nice dual sport ride in the mountains with my buddies, we went fishing and checked out the little towns and camping. Rode good until I heard a very loud grinding noise that went with the RPM's... This inspired me for a rebuild, because I had no idea how many problems I would fix before I could go on more than one ride!!!

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Enter xr600 teardown

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All the way down to this thing.

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Oops I sandblasted it

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Oops I powdercoated it. Local shop charged me $50 to do the frame, pegs, triple clamp, kickstand, kickstarter, rear brake lever. I sandblasted it all myself, but since my work does business with the powdercoat shop they gave me a deal. They happened to be doing this copper vein color, so I did that one! Thought it was pretty cool. And since it is a weak color in terms of durability, they put a clear coat powdercoat on top, which is EXTREMELY durable. Couldn't scratch the dang thing with a knife!

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Enter the engine, Found this cam, likely because of oil starvation, freakin ripped through the cylinder in the middle which is supposed to act as a stationary bearing I think?
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Found this in the clutch case, which happened to be the kickstarter bearing. Found more pieces, need to order that.

Ok these next three pictures were from tonight. I opened up the head and checked stuff out.sdfas (1).JPGsdfas (2).JPGsdfas (3).JPG

Carbon build up, scratches on cylinder sleeve, more carbon build up. What should I do about this guys? How do I clean up the carbon or do I need any new parts? Hone the cylinder or not? Or.... I don't know anything about motors haha

Hone the cylinder. If it needs to be bored the machinist will say so. Id hone and rering unless you planned on getting a new piston. A wire brush and a cleaner of some sort will clean the carbon. And once its clean see if your valves leak. Unless you planned on getting those machined too(seat cutting, etc) .

The powdercoat looks awesome!

Good work so far the thing is people dont know really how good the bike was! Will take 10X the abuse say a CRF450 will I know been there done that! They say they are TOO heavy well how long did XR628 domante Baja? And how many GNCC Championships did Scott Summers win? And with all the parts that is avalable you can do a LOT! Why do you think Honda is still making XR650L that really is the same bike?

 

If wiring is really F'ed up just ebay a harness and redo it. You have dual sport kit so wire the Ricky stator for one 200W coil, Also If you dont really need a key Ricky Stator and Trailtech has new reg/rec that have built in relay that will turn on/off lights automaticly with motor. Get you a 4cell Antigavity battery it will fit on top of airbox and you will have a bulletproof elec system!

 

Heres some pics to give you some ideas I know its a 650L but they are the same bike really.

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As far a motor get you a JE 640 piston kit from XRs only Hotcam have head rebuilt new valves etc. and you will be set. Then think about gettin a FCR carb for it and it will come alive

That is a really clean setup mastera. As far as wiring, I forgot to mention that I bought a high output reg/rec from Ricky that can handle 250w. Thanks for the suggestion on the battery. I'm gonna make a Baja designs harness from scratch with my trail tech bullet connector set and some automotive plugs.

Thanks for the input Eric. Yeah I'm leaning more toward a hone and new rings. How do you check for leaking valves?

A few questions on engine upgrades:

If I didn't get a new piston, would I want to get new rings, new wristpin, anything else?

If I did get a new piston, would I need to get a new rod if I stayed with a smaller bore like 610 or 618?
Also how do you bore the cylinder? Or do you get a new sleeve? Do you just have a machinist do it?

 

Do I need a new cam? If I got a new cam, do I need to replace the valves too? Well obviously I need a new cam chain, but do I need to replace rockers / valves? Do you guys think I should have the cam seat polished up or machined or anything? Should I have the cam polished up or lathed? 

 

All your do i need new questions can be answered by measuring specs. All those items you listed have a spec. How much the can be worn oit before replacement. Do you have a manual? Ill try to figure out how to send you my pdf. Pm me your email. Are you in socal by chance? I have a really good machinist hookup. I got a free hone ans $200 for port/polish, 3angle seat/valve cut. New guide o rings and stem seals and came back sexy. I used another machinist in anaheim for my crank. $90 to press the new rod...

Pour acetone into the ports. Intake and exaust. Then look at the valves and see if anything seeps through. Like put the head on its side with the ports up and valve pointing sideways.

You gotta measure your cylinder and see if you even need a hone. It might need to be bored. If your stock theres plenty of meat to shave off.

Wrist pin should be smooth and shiny and have no play. Again measure it. Same with cam.

That is a really clean setup mastera. As far as wiring, I forgot to mention that I bought a high output reg/rec from Ricky that can handle 250w. Thanks for the suggestion on the battery. I'm gonna make a Baja designs harness from scratch with my trail tech bullet connector set and some automotive plugs.

I am using that stator what it has is 2 100W coils for lights etc and one 50W for the CDI so you dont count that for what you can run for lights. And you have to wire to 2 100W to get 200W as they are 2 100W coils

Yea I know mastera. Gonna wire it for 200w of output. Ok Eric, thanks for the info. I live in Reno and in sac sometimes

Yea I know mastera. Gonna wire it for 200w of output.

 

Unless you want or need a battery, you can save weight and a failure point by going without.  You would need a small capacitor for the rectifier to function correctly.

 

Be conscious that you'll want to have the headlight on whenever the bike is running to consume some of those 200w of stator output.  Otherwise the reg/rectifier will burn out prematurely.

Edited by heart_of_darkness

Good tip heart of darkness, thanks!

That bore looks to be in pretty good condition, a good measurement to see if it is in spec will tell you if a new piston is needed. Make sure that the bore is measured at multiple places and both inline with the crank and 90 degrees from it to check for out-of-round. I think .0015 is max spec even if the bore is within dia. spec, it would need to be bored. Otherwise a hone and new rings will get you set up .

For valves at minimum they should be lapped in, for a good ,reliable and long lasting rebuild they should be recut ,both seats and valves, then you know they will seal. I like the XR's only setup.

A new cam and rockers would be ideal, but if all surfaces are smooth and in good condition I'd reuse them, they are easier to replace down the road if they wear out, just never run it out of oil and there should be no issues. OH ya, make sure to put those cam bearings in correctly, they have seals on one side for a reason.

Edited by jjktmrider

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To all of you thinking of riding dunes, let this be a reminder to you to bring a filter sock! and dont oil it lol.

i don't know if u guy's have "supercheap" in the US but here in aus we can buy pree oiled filters for XR6 for $9.00 just get 1 of them if ur going over the dunes then throw it out when u get home saves cleaning (depends how offen u go duneing)

Unless you want or need a battery, you can save weight and a failure point by going without.  You would need a small capacitor for the rectifier to function correctly.

 

Be conscious that you'll want to have the headlight on whenever the bike is running to consume some of those 200w of stator output.  Otherwise the reg/rectifier will burn out prematurely.

With a dual sport setup you need a battery to keep lights, signals, brake steady like sitting at lght with signal, brake on motor idling a cap cant do that. The Antigravity 4cell is less than a pound is 6aph will fit on top of airbox hell you can put it in your pocket. And its nice if your on a night trail ride and stop wire a switch so you can turn on taillight and that small bulb thats in all aftermarket headlights so you are not in the dark.

With a dual sport setup you need a battery to keep lights, signals, brake steady like sitting at lght with signal, brake on motor idling a cap cant do that. The Antigravity 4cell is less than a pound is 6aph will fit on top of airbox hell you can put it in your pocket. And its nice if your on a night trail ride and stop wire a switch so you can turn on taillight and that small bulb thats in all aftermarket headlights so you are not in the dark.

Yeah I'm definitely doing a battery. I have a niMH but ill check into the antigravity 4 cell thanks

eh too expensive, ill stick with nimh

That bore looks to be in pretty good condition, a good measurement to see if it is in spec will tell you if a new piston is needed. Make sure that the bore is measured at multiple places and both inline with the crank and 90 degrees from it to check for out-of-round. I think .0015 is max spec even if the bore is within dia. spec, it would need to be bored. Otherwise a hone and new rings will get you set up .

For valves at minimum they should be lapped in, for a good ,reliable and long lasting rebuild they should be recut ,both seats and valves, then you know they will seal. I like the XR's only setup.

A new cam and rockers would be ideal, but if all surfaces are smooth and in good condition I'd reuse them, they are easier to replace down the road if they wear out, just never run it out of oil and there should be no issues. OH ya, make sure to put those cam bearings in correctly, they have seals on one side for a reason.

Thanks for the reply! that's some good info, I would have had no idea about the cam bearings. I plan to get new bearings for that btw. One of them makes noise when you turn it and the other one it hard to turn

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