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How do you drain ALL of the oil out?

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I just did an oil and filter change on my XR650L.  It was below the bottom on the dipstick, so I barely got more than a quart out of it.  It took almost two and a half quarts to top it up after.  I ran the engine a bit to check that all was okay, and the oil was already a bit darker than the stuff I had just poured in there.

 

Where else does oil sit in the engine after you open the two drain plugs?

 

Could I have gotten more of it to come out of there?

 

(I'm asking for next time...)

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Lean the bike over to the ground on the right then left side when the case plug is out, then set it back upright.

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931 posts
Location: California

Posted 01 October 2013 - 09:24 PM


"I've solved my problem.

 

I sold the bike.  The new owner is going to take it all apart, including the top end of the engine and make sure everything is perfect, then take it to Baja for a month or two.  It never did misfire while I was showing it to him."

 

I thought you sold it???? :excuseme:

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Nah..Scott had a couple bork,,one's gone..Anyway..oil is black with ten minutes of engine running,,No point trying to imagine getting the last drop of the old stuff out will change the fact..it won't ..It goes black end of story.. :blink:..It's still good oil.,,just black oil :devil:

Edited by Horri

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Alot of oil stays in the stator case Scott.......as said already lean the bike over to the right some,,let it sit a few minutes,,have the engine drain plug out and set it back up on the sidestand quickly with a drainpan under it,,it`s surprizing how much oil comes out even after you though you drained it all...some stays in the head too..

 

B

Edited by brianhare

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Most of the time mine is red, whats up with that??

Oh ya, it's Klotz, starts out red just gets dark red after while. It shouldn't get black in 10 minutes(or even after an hour or 2, Maybe 10-15 hours of hard use. As far as bike and quad motors goes, it should take a while to turn black, at least I've not had one do that other than when I first buy a used bike and change the oil(I'll use some cheaper stuff) it will turn black quite fast, but then I change it again(this time using good oil)and it'll stay clean(er). Maybe I just change my oil often enough to not have all that black stuff in there.

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I may have to try leaning it next time.  I'll probably end up with even more oil on the garage floor. :censored:

 

 

LOL...........my drain technique is this:

 

Lift the drain pan up to the loosened downtube bolt,,pull the bolt,,as the oil flow slows set the pan down,,when itstops re-install the frame downtube bolt...move the pan to the engine drainbolt...

 

Loosen the engine drain bolt,,if you have a skidplate  loosen the bolt till it just clears the threads so the oil hits the bolt and goes straight down to the pan........once it slows to a drip i lean the bike to the right resting it on my knee for about a minute then quickly uprigt it to the sidestand,,more oil comes out and once it stops i install that plug...

 

Put the drainpan under the clutchcover.......remove 2 of the filter cover bolts....crack the third loose,,don`t loosen it anymore yet..

 

Lean the bike towards you on the right quite a bit...have the drain pan directly below under the oil cover...loosen the third cover bol till the cover pops out and the oil drains out of the filter cavity,,once it stops dripping upright the bike again to the sidestand and pull the oil filter and reinstall.i barely get a drip anywhere this way,....easy peasy...

 

B

Edited by brianhare

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We need an experiment done on this I can see..Get a brand new engine,,fill it with oil,,take it for a ten minute ride..Pour oil into a container so we can see it. Putting a drop on your finger won't cut it..it always looks nice in small drops..Where's the volunteer with the new bike????..Brian,,what about your engine as the guinea pig..and no cheating.. :naughty:,,film the event so we can see you're doing it correctly. :lol:

Edited by Horri

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I'm also after one of these damper rods when you're done with the oil film.. :lol:,,snapped end,,,right side..or possible repair suggestions..Must surely just be pressed on that end..

 

 

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Edited by Horri

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Since I had just changed the oil on several of my bikes(the last one was the XL with just over 400 miles on it since my rebuild, the oil was still in my drain tub, this is standard non syn due to the rebuild, Yamalube . chunks are from bugs in the garage. Definitely more than 10 minutes.

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I will guarantee that I haven't ever drained any oil from one of my bikes that was black after 10 minutes, even after 30hour, NEVER. Like I said maybe I change my oil often enough to never get it black . Ya ,it may not need to be changed that often. Container are always cleaned before draining so I know what come out of each bike/quad.
 

Edited by jjktmrider

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In case you don't have the owner's manual, it says to do essentially what has been stated before, though it doesn't mention tipping the bike to get the stator oil out. Having been in my stator before, it seemed to me that about a cup of oil sits in there.

 

 

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LoL..Put it in a white non see through container jjktmrider..look down through the bottles hole ,,it'll be black.. :devil: ..I change mine about every 1500k,,it's black and black ten minutes after I changed it and have ridden it..We used to go through this stuff when my mate purchased a brand new XL250 back in 73,,he was forever trying to keep his oil supposedly clean (non black),,he gave up in the end and decided,,it goes black.. :lol:

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If you look down into a brand new bottle of the oil it'll "look black"  To me black is like what comes out of my truck, anything that's come out of my bikes have been just a bit darker than what it started, far from black, far from looking black from any carbon which is what causes oil to turn . I'm not trying to keep it from getting black, it just doesn't get that bad,and I usually change in the 1500mi or 30-40hr time frame depending on what powersport the motor is from. This sample was one of the dirtier ones compared to my ltr or ktm, .

Edited by jjktmrider

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Could be right,,maybe my bikes have always run rich..thus,,black oil..I've yet to see golden oil flow from any 4 stroke during an oil change and I've witnessed a few..2 strokes oil ,,well it goes nowhere so should be gold forever..I've never seen an oil change on any super modern 4stks where the engines supposedly tuned within an inch of its life,,therefore I suppose they should have golden oil..Don't they get changed every 5 hrs or so anyway,,Hardly even worth doing..If it's still gold there's nothing wrong with the oil.. :excuseme:

 

We should give this up,,Last thing we need is another oil thread,, :lol:..Call it a draw,,some peoples oils gold,,some's black..

Edited by Horri

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I'm also after one of these damper rods when you're done with the oil film.. :lol:,,snapped end,,,right side..or possible repair suggestions..Must surely just be pressed on that end..

 

 

bllu.jpg

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What's broken is the threaded end that holds the nut onto the midvalve piston assembly?  That whole steel head part is all one piece and is threaded onto the gold coloured aluminium rod, but torqued tightly and loctited into place.  It's a bit of a chore to remove without damaging the aluminium tube because it's difficult to hold the tube while unscrewing the steel part.  And you'll need a torch to melt the loctite.

 

First disassemble the other fork and retrieve that bottom locking nut (from the other end of the gold tube), and use both nuts to "double nut" the broken damper rod.  You'll need to use two spanner wrenches on those double nuts to stop that end of the tube from turning.  Plus clamp the tube gently in a bench vice without crushing it.  Now with your third and fourth hands, heat the steel part and then unscrew it.

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Yeah,,I have the nut,,the forks came separated on that side..So are you saying the piece on the end of the gold rod circled in yellow can be removed...If so that'll be good as I'm sure I could get something engineered to replace whats there..The threads have been snapped off that end.(green is threads).virtually nothing left to get any nuts on there..

 

 

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As to oil changes, I have done the following which some may think is dangerous. After I've drained all the oil, I run the engine for about 20 seconds. Then I open the two plugs again and a fair bit of oil comes out.

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Yeah,,I have the nut,,the forks came separated on that side..So are you saying the piece on the end of the gold rod circled in yellow can be removed...If so that'll be good as I'm sure I could get something engineered to replace whats there..The threads have been snapped off that end.(green is threads).virtually nothing left to get any nuts on there..

 

 

suv.jpg

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Yes, what you have circled there is all one piece and is threaded onto the gold aluminium rod (known generically as the "damper rod").  But getting it off without damaging the aluminium is tricky.

 

When you get it off, you'll see that inside there's a needle which seats against the interior of that steel piece.  I wouldn't try to make one on a lathe; if it's not dimensionally exact inside the rebound adjuster clicker on that fork won't work properly.

 

The threaded end was most likely broken by someone trying to remove the midvalve assembly without grinding away the peened end of the shaft ahead of the nut.

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