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Installing HotCams

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Right so how do you guys get a "strait attack" at the valve/tappets on these RMZ's (do you cut/bend the feelers) as the rights are causing a few headaches.

 

Also for those that have installed hot cams did you go with the hot cams recommended lash or that of the Suzuki manual?

 

Cheers

 

 

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Bend the feeler gauge and just slip it in. Use hot cams spec. Typically I just aim for .005 on intake and .010 on the exhaust. Or 4 and 8...whichever. I prefer to he on the tighter spec for valve adjustment. Most times if you were OK with the stock cams,the hot cams will not be off by much-at least she I installed stage 1s. I got a set of stage 2 for my rmz250 but waiting from r big bore to arrive.

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The hotcam spec is

IN .10mm (.004")

EX .15mm (.006")

so I'll go with that.  Cheers

 

Funny thing is when i installed the cams they felt fine at the feelers.  Original set up was A ok.  How much did you end up shimming (up or down) by?

 

Obviously done something wrong though as she wont start.  I'll buy some more feelers later that i can cut and bend for a more accurate feel.

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When installing the hot cams,it will typically be the same clearance as OEM. The lift (lobe) and the duration (size and location) are really the only thing that changes. So,if you are getting good clearance reading with feeler gauges-its probably something else. Thee bike can be a bitch to get timed right. Sometimes gotta hold crank,set cams,then install tensioner and kick bike through and then check timingagain. Then just make sure you gogoats everythk g holked up right. If a connector isn't plugged in or ground off for coil,etc-it won't start. Make sure decompress or is functioning. Does it kick over easy or hard? Does it even cough or backfire? If its got spark and fuel it should at least cough/backfire.

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she tries to start...like a quick fire, fire fire...nothing

 

I'll bend up these new feelers and go again as I've probably been messing up the right hand valve adjustment.

 

Thanks for the replies, i'll post back tomorrow with how it goes

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all good i believe....tip sensor being the black box right above the head with the arrow facing up, right?

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Yep. The start and die made me think was sensor

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Hmmm on the 2012's should there be 12 or 13 pins between the two punch marks.  Getting a few conflicting PM's here

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So 13 pins it is but still no start?  I have bought, cut up and bent a new shim set which helps enormously with those right hand valves but still....fire, fire, fire, dead (if your lucky)?

Feel like a spanner as I've never had problems before.  Never installed HotCams before either.....hmm

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Intake cam .09mm

Exhaust .17

Those are minimum and about where they should be on clearance. Feeler should snugly slide through. 13 pins from top dot to top dot. On intake cam-shoukd say ex or just x and have in or I. Ex faces the exhaust cam and I faces air I take. When timed right lobes face outward-intake can faces intake. Exhaust faces exhaust. Make sure tensioner is functioning properly. Wind it up,tighten bolts and then release so it put tension on chain.check wiring connections. Make sure hot start is free. Go over electrical connections. Check idle knob. Did tPSs get bumped? Confirm voltage at open and closed throttle. Didn't leave a rag in intake? If subframe was removed make sure air sensor hooked up. Make sure water temp sensor hokked up. Sometimes wires can get pinched putting tank on. They got 5 pounds of shit in a 1 pound bag under that tank. Very easy for a wire to get pinched. You can put 12 volts into the harness and back check connections. Pm me max or we can try talking it out here. I'd give you my number but being in usa might cost a fortune. Do you have a small voltmeter? Should read tenths of a volt DC and resistance 1-10k ohm. How does it feel when you kick it? Same as stock,harder or softer? Decompress or should be OK unless spring isnt on.

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Sure the fue line is in all the way? Latched? Only thing k can think of is TPS got bumped if tb was twisted.I'm running out of ideas.

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The little data sheets that came with the cams say:
Intake cam .10mm
Exhaust .15mm
With no given tolerances?

HC intake value is in the realm of the standard lash i.e. standard 0.09 to 0.16

But the HC exhaust value is tighter @ 0.15 when the standard lash is 0.17 to 0.24

I've checked so many times the couplers timing, cam placement, values, tensioner etc its not even funny.  Only other thing i can think of is that the gear could have possibly slipped on the cam?

Its funny at the kicker too.  Some times it feels firm...firmer than before.  Other times it just rushes though the stroke with little resistance.

I'm one more "check session" away from booking it into a tech to confirm my work.

I've got a few pics i'll see if i can't get them up.

Thanks for all the help though.  Very good of you sir!

Edited by maximous35

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Hold hot start a little when starting-if it starts and idles-probably tPS is off. If you take plug out and kick bike over and no firm tight spots-then valves aren't hitting piston-should be good to go. I Dont think the hot cams gear can spin its pressed and has indents.

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Hmm funny you say that...she tries to fire if either a) i kick it a couple of times with the throttle wide open then kick normally b.) if hold the hot start open a touch....either way it still wont start.

 

Well I've just made the call.  She's booked in for Thursday morning so i have until then to figure or pay out for ones  stupidness

Edited by maximous35

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 Give it a quick shot of starting fluid . If it wants to run you know it is a fuel problem. 

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Alright....right now i'd try snake oil, pixy dust...anything...haha

 

I'll get into it again when i get home - recheck everything with fresh eyes

 

Thanks fellas

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