Rear brake lacks feedback ?

[MidlifeCrisisGuy]

I really dislike the rear brake on my 2012 WR450F. Its plenty powerful, but I find it has no feedback.

I can't really feel the pedal with my riding boots and I find it very hard to modulate the braking power, especially when going down steep hills.

I think I wish that the brake pedal needed more travel to actuate and it needed more force too.

Does anyone else feel this way ? Is there a way to modify it for more feedback ?

[FORMA MOTO]

Yes.

The 'standard' method is to cut cross hatches in the pads using a hack saw. This will make the pad less grippy.

Two 'X''s side by side all the way to the edges.

 

The other is to induce air into the hydraulic line. This is an old KTM trick. It will add back in some 'mush' we all try so hard to get out of our brake lines.

 

Lowering the position of your brake pedal also helps .

 

You should also visit your rebound adjuster and your high speed compression.

If using the rear brake results in any wheel hop, your rebound is too slow for normal trail riding.

Because you SSS suspension, a little bit of 'pogo' is accepable at low speeds. Not too much, or you will loose traction.

If it does it only on square egde bumps, back you high speed off 1/4 turn.

[MidlifeCrisisGuy]

Yes.

The 'standard' method is to cut cross hatches in the pads using a hack saw. This will make the pad less grippy.

Two 'X''s side by side all the way to the edges.

Interesting.

 

The other is to induce air into the hydraulic line. This is an old KTM trick. It will add back in some 'mush' we all try so hard to get out of our brake lines.

How do you recommend doing this in a controlled. precise fashion ?

 

You should also visit your rebound adjuster and your high speed compression.

If using the rear brake results in any wheel hop, your rebound is too slow for normal trail riding.

Because you SSS suspension, a little bit of 'pogo' is accepable at low speeds. Not too much, or you will loose traction.

If it does it only on square egde bumps, back you high speed off 1/4 turn.

I was playing around with both on our last ride. New springs go in both ends this week.

Great advice as usual, Krannie. Thanks for taking the time to reply to my posts.

Edited October 8, 2013 by MidlifeCrisisGuy

[FORMA MOTO]

Interesting, yes. You can actually buy EBC organic pads with the 'cuts' already installed.

 

Adding air is pretty easy: with the pedal all the way down, open the banjo on the caliper. Lift the pedal a small amount, and close it back up.

It works pretty good and stays 'linear' for quite a while. I did it on my KTM and my CR. Of course I sold the evil Orange Menace.

[MidlifeCrisisGuy]

Thanks, Krannie.

 

Of course I sold the evil Orange Menace.

LOL ! Tell us how you really feel ! Oh wait... you already did ! LOL. Edited October 8, 2013 by MidlifeCrisisGuy

[MidlifeCrisisGuy]

I introduced some air into my rear brake hydraulic system as you suggested. It worked really well. Now the pedal has 1/2" of mushiness before getting hard. Its perfect for my liking.

I didn't cut my brake pads.

Thanks for the tip.

[Pooley]

You could try to use a heavier spring to increase overall tension on the brake pedal.  I have a friend who did this to increase his overall effort to push the pedal down, which in turn increased his feel for what was actually going on.

[MidlifeCrisisGuy]

You could try to use a heavier spring to increase overall tension on the brake pedal.  I have a friend who did this to increase his overall effort to push the pedal down, which in turn increased his feel for what was actually going on.

That is a good idea too. Where could one get a spring, or should I just run 2 stock springs ? Would be hard for them not to bind together, but maybe that doesn't matter ? Edited October 16, 2013 by MidlifeCrisisGuy

[vlxjim]

Hammerhead makes an adjustable one for the WR.

Edited October 16, 2013 by vlxjim