Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

1999 DR200SE Project Engine Help

Recommended Posts

Hey ya'll!

 

I am in need of ya'll help fixing up and getting my bike running. I bought a 1999 Suzuki DR200SE a few months back. Basically, the engine needed a new bottom end. And top end bored etc. Basically engine was shot. Cuz it seized on previous owner. When I opened everything out and drained oil and checked filter there was alot of metal shavings so defintiely got siezed.

 

Anyway, I decided to get the cylinder jug bored out into a  230cc. And I got a new Wiseco LT230 +.5mm Piston set to go with the rebuild. I bought a 2009 complete bottom end and started transferring the other parts from the old engine like flywheel, stator & cover, etc. Put in a new Winderosa complete engine gasket kit in and assembled everything back together. I completed hooking everything back up tonight and tried to get it started but NO LUCK! It would NOT fire up. I know theres gas in carbs and I even sprayed starting fluid to no avail. I know there is spark, I checked that.

 

I saw that an LT230 piston would work on this thing, thats why I went with it since I was having a hard time finding a replacement 200 piston kit at the time. Now I cant figure this out.

 

So any help and advice from you guys would be great, especially from the engine builders here.

 

Ford

Edited by bford_17

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I know nothing about the 200 but........

 

Given even half decent compression, fuel even if not perfect and a spark within 5 deg. of correct timing should give at least a pop.

My guess is cam and/or spark is degreeded wrong.

 

Bruce

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I know nothing about the 200 but........

 

Given even half decent compression, fuel even if not perfect and a spark within 5 deg. of correct timing should give at least a pop.

My guess is cam and/or spark is degreeded wrong.

 

Bruce

Thanks for the input BDM. What your saying makes sense. I'll definitely have to check that now. Also if timing is wrong, wouldn't it hit the valves? I am just wondering as that was my initial thinking so if timing was wrong i wouldnt have been able to rotate the engine by hand or I would have felt/heard piston hitting the valves.

Edited by bford_17

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Perhaps but if the cam is 1 tooth off may not fire and may not touch.

Things I would check would be cam timing and ignition timing (may be related if CDI pulse is off cam).

Also if there is a compression release system, if so I would check it's operation.

Might also check the compression.

 

Lots of things have to be very close to run perfect, but only ballpark to run poorly, pop or kick back, a little fuel, a little compression and a little spark.

 

Bruce

Edited by BDM

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Perhaps but if the cam is 1 tooth off may not fire and may not touch.

Things I would check would be cam timing and ignition timing (may be related if CDI pulse is off cam).

Also if there is a compression release system, if so I would check it's operation.

Might also check the compression.

 

Lots of things have to be very close to run perfect, but only ballpark to run poorly, pop or kick back, a little fuel, a little compression and a little spark.

 

Bruce

Hey Bruce,

 

I checked the compression and I am only getting 60psi (using my cheapo HF compression tester - dont know how reliable this is.). So now I'm kinda lost, I mean new piston and rings already and I also had the valves re-seated by the machine shop. I guess I can try to check if its the rings by squirting oil down the cylinder later when I get home - just to rule out the rings.

Edited by bford_17

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nothing wrong with an inexpensive tester as long as it is seated so air is not leaking out (which you can hear).  60 psi will not get it done, something is way wrong. Hold the throttle full open and crank then try the oil and repeat, it should go up a little do to sight volume of oil and better cylinder sealing but don't think you will see it go to the 100+ psi needed to fire let alone the 175+ of a good build. Can't believe the bore job or valve job would be that poor which leads me back to;

 

Cam timing

broke a ring during assembly

Auto compression release wrong (if any)

Your info about the piston was wrong (doubt it)

 

Engine = air compressor, fuel & spark. Your air compressor is broken.

 

Bruce

Edited by BDM

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×