Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

First time revalve

Recommended Posts

Hey everybody, i have always resprung my bikes for my weight and played with the external fork oil level to tune my suspension, but with my current bike (11 rmz250) i still have a very sharp "stiff" sensation at the bars under braking, ive tried all kinds of clicker setting and found some solace but i think its time for me to test my skills with a revalve of the high speed stack in both compression and rebound. Ive done as much research as possible on the proceadure and appart from being extremely organized and clean it looks straight forward enough. So my question is whether i can simply remove one of the shims in the high speed stack? or do i have to replace the shim with a different diameter shim? i do not have access to such parts were i am located and therefore would like to experiment with removing one of shims in the high speed stack of the valving. would this cause play in the valve stack and therefor adversely effect the damping? i appreciate any insight on this topic

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If its any help. Im a midpack b rider and weigh approximately 185lbs with gear. I went down to .45 springs in the forks as well as down to a 5.3 spring in the rear and removed about 20cc of oil from each fork leg which helped with some of the midstroke harshness. Appart from this the suspension is bone stock. essentially the bike is well balanced but has trouble absorbing successive chop especially under braking and somewhat under acceleration.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All I'll say is likely it'll take more than just removing one shim to have a noticeable effect, unless its the clamp shim.... but removing it generally would expose a larger shim underneath.  So you'll end up with "more" damping and not less if that's what your after.

 

Which clicker changes did you make that resulted in a "better" ride?  Are you talking about braking bumps and the forks are too stiff or harsh?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All I'll say is likely it'll take more than just removing one shim to have a noticeable effect, unless its the clamp shim.... but removing it generally would expose a larger shim underneath.  So you'll end up with "more" damping and not less if that's what your after.

 

Which clicker changes did you make that resulted in a "better" ride?  Are you talking about braking bumps and the forks are too stiff or harsh?

 

Yes, braking bumps are my issue. the bike just seems to not use its entire stroke (except for big landings) its as if it locks up, i ruled out packing as i tried speeding up rebound settings and ive also tried both extremes of of compression with different combinations of rebound. i found the keeping rebound at stock and going softer on compression helped to an extent but i still feel that the forks are not functioning. my typical symptom is harshness at the bars and or a bouncy front wheel on entrance and exit of choppy turns.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i guess i can understand your logic about increasing damping as you are increasing the surface area but dont the shims function as a system? meaning that their stiffness is dependent on the underlying shim?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you remove face shims you will loose ls and hs which I feel is what you need

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i guess i can understand your logic about increasing damping as you are increasing the surface area but dont the shims function as a system? meaning that their stiffness is dependent on the underlying shim?

All I'm saying is it'll take more than just the removal of one shim to make a difference, unless that shim is the clamp.

Best bet is to post your current shim stack and let others give you some advice based on what your currently running.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you remove face shims you will loose ls and hs which I feel is what you need

 

so i SHOULD remove the face shims? sorry for not completely following your reply. The valves are stock and i going off of what valvinglogic.com gives for the stock stack:

 

fork base valve

  22 - 30.1  28.1  26.1  24.1  22.1  20.1  18.1  16.1  15.2 b 

 

fork rebound   7 - 20.1    10.1    20.1  18.1  16.1  14.1  12.1  11.15 b   

16.2 

 

fork mid valve bleed   bleed   mv 8 - 20.1  mv 2 - 17.1  mv   mv   mv   mv   mv   mv   mv   mv   mv   mv   mv   mv   above   above   sc 2.35  below 9.2  below 2 - 10.2  below 2 - 11.2 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×