Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Wheel Bearings?

Recommended Posts

Here's a question.

 When replacing wheel bearings should the spacer inside the hub be snug to the bearing or should there be a small amount of movement. I never noticed or even thought about it before, and the last two front wheel bearings I did, were snug, and made only a few rides till they were shot. I have checked some of my other wheels and there is movement in the spacer. This was the first time I have ever had to replace wheel bearings ever. Yes you read that right, my stock wheel bearings lasted that long!

 

 Did I do it wrong? Or are there other issues with my front hub? There's also the option of, pivit works sucks.

 

BTW  02 YZ125,no pressure washer, no "mud rides", just MX track.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's a question.

 When replacing wheel bearings should the spacer inside the hub be snug to the bearing or should there be a small amount of movement. I never noticed or even thought about it before, and the last two front wheel bearings I did, were snug, and made only a few rides till they were shot. I have checked some of my other wheels and there is movement in the spacer. This was the first time I have ever had to replace wheel bearings ever. Yes you read that right, my stock wheel bearings lasted that long!

 

 Did I do it wrong? Or are there other issues with my front hub? There's also the option of, pivit works sucks.

 

BTW  02 YZ125,no pressure washer, no "mud rides", just MX track.

 

The new bearings should make the spacer inside the hub fit like it did before you replaced them.  My old CR had a spacer that was snug, but after replacing bearings the spacer floated a little bit.  It never gave me issues though.

 

Did you install the snap rings correctly?  Dust seals?  I'm not sure what went wrong, pretty simple operation.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Snug

 

When the axle is tightened, it 'locks' the external spacers to the bearing centers to the internal spacer tube together as a sold mass. This does not mean that the spacer tube should be 'jammed' in there but there shouls be no side to side movement. It is reasonable to be able to poke a finger in the bearing, touch the spacer and push un and down. But it should be difficult if at all.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The problem I see with some bikes and PO's with big wrenches and sockets, if you over-tighten the axle nut, the spacer can be crushed and damaged to effectively shorten it.  Then, even with proper tightening it puts an extreme load on the bearings.   This could result in a very short bearing life.  If you closely look at a spacer, they aren't a very heavy piece so don't over-tighten!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just seat the bearings in the pocket. Ive had loose and snug fitting spacers and the bearings always last. Make sure when you press or hammer the new bearing in, you do so against the outer race. If not, the bearing will be wasted in short order.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just seat the bearings in the pocket. Ive had loose and snug fitting spacers and the bearings always last. Make sure when you press or hammer the new bearing in, you do so against the outer race. If not, the bearing will be wasted in short order.

I think that's why they tell you not to re-use wheel bearings you've removed.  You pretty much gotta beat the hell out of them pounding on the inner race.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If in doubt replace the spacer.  Also be aware some bikes may have additional washers in the hub as well.  Check the parts diagram.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The problem I see with some bikes and PO's with big wrenches and sockets, if you over-tighten the axle nut, the spacer can be crushed and damaged to effectively shorten it.  Then, even with proper tightening it puts an extreme load on the bearings.   This could result in a very short bearing life.  If you closely look at a spacer, they aren't a very heavy piece so don't over-tighten!

 

If in doubt replace the spacer.  Also be aware some bikes may have additional washers in the hub as well.  Check the parts diagram.

 

This I could see, I never used the torque wrench on the wheels, and three of the five wheels are ebay specials. At the same time I have had this bike since new and have just recently ran into this problem. Just put new pivot works bearings in both fronts and one rear, going to ride this weekend, if they are shot Monday, then new inner and outer spacers and OEM bearings will be the next  buy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The cause of short bearing life could also be the bearing isn't seated all the way in the hub.  It could be caused by dirt/crud/shavings between the bearing and the shoulder of the hub casting.  For every .001 the bearing (outer race) is NOT seated against the shoulder, that's .001 the inner race will be pushed sideways when everything is tightened.  There IS a tiny bit of play in a new bearing but it can't compensate for too much if the bearing isn't seated.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×