TUbliss--pros and cons

[LovingOffroadPain]

becareful using TOO MUCH SOAP/WATER. That mixture will break down the sealing properties of the SLIME. Use SLIME on the beads as a lubricant.

I wonder if that depends on wut kinda soap. Hand soap vs dish is less robust, for instance

[El Liebre]

As I said. I ran mine with ZERO pressure all day on a rocky surface. No dents and grip to spare. I look for the smoothest lines but always do that anyway

 

BTW. I use SM Pro Platinum rims. Stronger than A-60's and almost as light

 

Tu-Bliss kits, SM pro platinum rims, Talon Carbon hubs with Bull Dog SS spokes on a small bore bike is an UNBEATABLE combination. I'd say around half the normal spinning mass at least  ?

 

Not a cheap combo but IMO well worth the coin  .

 

Here's the best part of Tu-Bliss. A flat will actually make you faster?

 

"Pro's and Con's".  What Con's ? IMO, there are None ? .  

 

You need to edit the threads title  

 

I run pretty much the same system.

Tu-Bliss kit, SMpro Platnum rims...except I use stock Honda hubs and stainless Bulldog spokes with Dunlop MX71's.

So far it's a bullet proof combo!

[Chas_M]

I wonder if that depends on wut kinda soap. Hand soap vs dish is less robust, for instance

 

 

Forget the soap and use only Slime as the lubricant.

I wonder if that depends on wut kinda soap. Hand soap vs dish is less robust, for instance

 

 

Forget the soap and use only Slime as the lubricant.

Edited October 18, 2013 by Chas_M

[AddictedToBling]

Grease is better to use than Slime IMO.

[detox]

Grease is better to use than Slime IMO.

Really? Are you using something like wheel bearing grease, or maybe lithium based, or Di-lithium crystal based grease?

 

My front really leaks, and I don't have any sealant in there. I didn't clean the rim bead surface perfectly when I installed. Seems like I should be able to get some grease in there.

[detox]

Beyond my leaky front, I really like riding with the Tubliss. Takes the worry out of flats. Low tire pressure is nice, traction seems better.

[AddictedToBling]

Really? Are you using something like wheel bearing grease, or maybe lithium based, or Di-lithium crystal based grease?

 

My front really leaks, and I don't have any sealant in there. I didn't clean the rim bead surface perfectly when I installed. Seems like I should be able to get some grease in there.

 

 

I'll have to ask my mate. He does mine for me and I wash his bike in return  ?  

 

The one time I did my own was the time I rode with zero air in both tires for the day? .

Edited October 18, 2013 by AddictedToBling

[AddictedToBling]

I decided to have a go at fitting my Tubliss kits myself.

 

Has anyone had to drill a new hole in the rim for the rim lock or valve? If so, what did you do with the rim lock or valve hole you didn't use?

[GHILL28]

I've run these on two different bikes now for a couple years.  Love them, but had some growing pains with them.  Mostly my fault really.

 

No matter what you read on here, do NOT expect a serious desert tire like a Desert IT or a Parker DT to mount up any easier.  If anything, it'll be harder because you don't have as much of the low center of the rim for it to drop into.  Aside from that, read and follow ALL the directions.

 

You can run stupid low pressures.  You can also mess up rims really fast.  I run mine just slightly lower than normal.  For racing I still run 15psi front/rear.

 

As far as leaks, if you're already using Slime, replace your valve cores, and verify the torque on the rimlock.  The cores seem to suck, and changing the valve cores fixed a lot of my slow leak issues.

 

The single biggest benefit of these is being able to keep the tire on the rim when you flat them.  You can still puncture just the same (if you puncture these, you would have likely punctured with a tube as well) and you can still pinch flat the tire if you hit something hard enough, especially in a lean.  I have two tires with sidewall snakebites just below the rim.  But if you flat, oh well, slow down a little and just keep riding.  

[Qqqqqqqqqqqq]

I run pretty much the same system.

Tu-Bliss kit, SMpro Platnum rims...except I use stock Honda hubs and stainless Bulldog spokes with Dunlop MX71's.

So far it's a bullet proof combo!

?

[Chas_M]

I decided to have a go at fitting my Tubliss kits myself.

 

Has anyone had to drill a new hole in the rim for the rim lock or valve? If so, what did you do with the rim lock or valve hole you didn't use?

 

You shouldn't need to drill a completely new hole.  If you are currently running a single rim-lock, all you need to do is to enlarge either the original valve stem hole or the rim-lock hole for the Tubliss valve stem.

[lotus54]

I asked Tubliss about this.

The spacing between is very important they said.

My rim lock is the other side of the rim from the valve stem, so I'll need to drill a new hole also for my new bike.

My KTM didn't require a new hole, just open one up a little bit.

Mark

[AddictedToBling]

I asked Tubliss about this.

The spacing between is very important they said.

My rim lock is the other side of the rim from the valve stem, so I'll need to drill a new hole also for my new bike.

My KTM didn't require a new hole, just open one up a little bit.

Mark

 

 

Yeah, my Beta was the same. Had KTM Rims on it.

 

They make a point about the rim lock and valve being only 4 spokes apart in the Instructional Vid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gmrEFqFk1yo

 

How do you plan to plug the unused holes?

 

EDIT: I just ordered some rubber plugs specifically made to do the job. Same as they use for Moose tubes   ? .

Edited November 4, 2013 by AddictedToBling

[lotus54]

Where did you get them?

[AddictedToBling]

Where did you get them?

 

 

I would think the local tire service would have them but I called the bike shop to get the Info and just decided to get them through there.

[JPD855]

Yeah, my Beta was the same. Had KTM Rims on it.

 

They make a point about the rim lock and valve being only 4 spokes apart in the Instructional Vid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gmrEFqFk1yo

 

How do you plan to plug the unused holes?

 

EDIT: I just ordered some rubber plugs specifically made to do the job. Same as they use for Moose tubes   ? .

The TUBLISS kits come with plugs too. They are in the bag of rim tape (that go inside the rim under the tape).

[lotus54]

HA! I hadn't looked in the that yet. I'll take a look

[Chas_M]

I asked Tubliss about this.

The spacing between is very important they said.

My rim lock is the other side of the rim from the valve stem, so I'll need to drill a new hole also for my new bike.

My KTM didn't require a new hole, just open one up a little bit.

Mark

 

Even though Jeff at Tubliss recommended not doing this, I installed a 18" Tubliss on my '08 bike over 4 years ago with the valve stems 180 degrees apart with no issues.  Initial installation is a little trickier with a greater chance of damaging the inner tube but once installed the Tubliss is in there permanently.  One advantage here is that the wheel is in better balance and takes fewer balance weights to balance the wheel.

Edited November 4, 2013 by Chas_M

[JPD855]

Even though Jeff at Tubliss recommended not doing this, I installed a 18" Tubliss on my '08 bike over 4 years ago with the valve stems 180 degrees apart with no issues.  Initial installation is a little trickier with a greater chance of damaging the inner tube but once installed the Tubliss is in there permanently.  One advantage here is that the wheel is in better balance and takes fewer balance weights to balance the wheel.

And if you do mount them 180 apart you need to be VERY CAREFUL when changing tires to make sure the high pressure valve stem is pushed into the rim (so the bead of the tire is pressing against the metal stem) If it is not, the bead will try to shear the Metal Stem from the bladder when it is being pushed into the drop center of the rim.

[Chuck.]

Good thread; 39 posts and lots of questions, opinions, and advice.

I've run Tubliss systems on several bikes since 09 with good results.

Slime can be your friend:

For mounting tires.

And for sealing the inside of tube tire casings when they begin to leak, just paint the inside of the casing.

 

Low TP increases traction and the Tubliss system clamps the bead to the rim so tightly that tire slip is no longer a problem at low TP so you can have your cake and eat it too.