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Just bought a 2000 xr650r

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I paid 2100 for the plated supermoto. Came with an extra clark tank, extra set of plastic, dirt rims and tires, with some ectra sprockets.

Now... the bike sat for a year. Ir started up but I haven't really gotten to ride it. It was hard to start amd kept flooding then died on me when I pulled in the clutch to turn around on the road.

I'm going to do oil and filter, new spark plug, clean carb and filter. What else should I do before trying to drive again?

I admit I didn't do a good inspection and prematurly bought it. I knew I could part it out if needed. I don't think its anything bad though. Hopfully just a tune up

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I work overseas so I am away from my XR650R for months at a time. I learn through the hard way - drain the fuel completely from the carb!. It gunks up like you cant believe and you end up having to soak the carb and clean it thoroughly before she will start let alone run properly. Chances are almost 100% that is your problem. Fuel turning into whale snot. 

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This is what the plug looks like. Is it running rich?

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While takimg apart the carb to clean I didn't notice where this nut was. Where should the nut be when tightened down. I'm assuming this is the main jet? Is this nut a way of adjusting?

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That is the  emmulsion tube if i remember correctly,,it tightens down,,no adjustment........it`s running rich probably because of crud holding the needle open on the float...clean the needle end with alcohol and adjust the float properly...clean ever passage with carb cleaner,,run a thin wire through every hole and blow the bugger out of everything with a blowgun..

 

Drain the carb if you don`t run itv for more than a week...

 

B

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You don't need to get the needle out..Just stick that tube back in where it goes after cleaning all the small holes up the side of it and the center hole with as Brian says a strand from a wire brush or a B or E string from a guitar. That tube screws into the center part of the carb in the float bowl area. The main jet then screws into that tube. The pilot jet is in a hole next to those bits..Unscrew it and give it exactly the same treatment as the emulsion tube.

 

If the things puking gas everywhere when it's simply sitting with the fuel turned on then the needle valve is had it..It's attached to the float by a small metal hooking system. A  pin on the actual valve goes up and down when the float rises/falls..Replace that valve. That valve is what Brian's referring to when he says needle,,confusion has occurred in terminology that's all..

Edited by Horri

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change all fluids, clean air filter, change oil filter, remove carb from bike and clean all jets etc, dont get carb cleaner on any gaskets or diaphrams...   wash tank, make sure the petcock valves is working properly and isnt falling apart, it will get the float needle stuck open and overflow the carb...

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Thank you very much. I cleaned it all out. Got it all put back together and put the new plug in. Its tool late to start it up right now, but tomorrow we will see.

Now as far as jetting goes. It has a kn air filter and an fmf slip on. Its had a 168s pilot and a 175 main. I think... I took pictures. If it is still running rich what should my next steps be? Replacing the parts you listed above?

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I'm still going to replace oil and filter tomorrow when I get a chance. Before driving it. I looked at my dipstick and its only about s fourth of an inch wet. Its low. But I'd that only because it's been sitting? Did it need to run for a few to register a correct reading?

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Think you'll find that's a 68S pilot not a 168,,that was the favoured pilot for the 650r..No you don't need to replace that needle valve attached to the float unless when you turn the fuel on and allow the bike to sit for say 2-5 minutes gas starts pissing out the overflow tubes onto the ground..No overflow then leave it alone..Maybe go down one size in the main or pilot..Hard to say without knowing how rich it is or how the motor sounds or whether it's blowing any black smoke out the exhaust..Plug looks a little rich but not excessively in my book..

 

Yes the bike has to be shut down after say a 10 minute ride to check levels..Once back from the squirt round the block or your leaving it to idle for say 5 minutes instead of the ride you then immediately check the oil level on the dipstick..Dipstick is not screwed home for the check,,it sits atop the hole..Levels aren't checked cold.,,Least I think that's the way 650r oils checked,,wait for confirmation or I'll check the manual in a second or so..Checked,,Do the oil check as stated..

 

Change the oil when the engines still hot/warm..flows out easily..more comes out..don't do it with a cold motor.

 

Manual...pdf..Save it to your pc..Open with adobe or some other free PDF viewer..

 

http://xr650r.barbershack.com/Download.html

 

mmm..7.5mb..can't be the full manual..get it anyway and have a look..One I have is 143mb..full manual.

 

Good old 4strokes,,

 

http://www.4strokes.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=27039

Edited by Horri

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Thank you so much for the input. Its funny how similar yet different bikes are. I can rebuild a wr engine and carb no problem. Its interesting seeing how different brands do stuff.

Ill try and start her up tomorrow and go for there. From what I've seen it doesn't smoke or exhaust. But the turn signal behind it is black because of it.

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it started on the second kick for a few seconds then died. couldnt get it started again. Im waiting a few minutes before I try again. I did buy new oil and filter so I was hoping to get it running so I could do that.

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Ok It seems I can get it started. It will stay on with the choke on the first notch. I let it idle for about 2 minutes then tried to turn the choke off and it dies. happened both times I started it. I feel like it should be warmed up by them but maybe not. Could it be the idle screw? with the first notch on the choke it sounds like it should be idling like that with the choke off.... maybe. Im not sure.

 

When my wr450 was stolen I had to rebuild it due to some POS dumping it in a river.... And when I got everything rebuilt it was doing the same thing. and I later found out all that it needed was adjusted idle. Thats what makes me think it could be that, but I really dont know.

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I don't know..A minute with choke should be about the maximum in my book..after that it should idle if maybe a little roughly. The bikes displaying all the signs of a blocked pilot jet or pilot circuit..Did you remove the Pilot jet from its hole with a screwdriver and clean all the tiny holes up the side of it and also the center hole with the wire brush strand???,,this needs answering..Also when you have that pilot out you should really blow compressed air into the hole it came from to clear any possible blockage up there,,Have you done that??..The bikes running rich somewhere,,we don't know where..A rich condition on the pilot should not make it conk out when you release the choke..Are you certain you are using the choke correctly..When the lever handle end points to the ground the choke is off,,when it points to say the gas tank direction the choke is on..

 

I suppose it's possible the thing has a rooted ACV valve..On the side of the carb you will see a plate with 2 or 3 screws..Undo them while holding your finger on the plate so when the final screws released the spring and stuff doesn't fly out..Ease the cover off then pull the rubber looking thing from in there and hold it up to the light while semi stretching it and look for pin holes or frayed rubber..If you see any it needs replacing..

 

There's also a tiny rubber o-ring in that chamber area..Check which way it;s facing,,flat side goes toward the carb body,,rounded side away from the carb body..

Edited by Horri
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I did clean out the pilot jet with a wire strand. I don't have any compressed air. Would one of those cans of air work? I don't have a compressor any more. I took that side plate off when I was cleaning it. I didn't take the rubber part out though.

As for the choke I've been pushing it down away from me to put it on. And pulling it back up to turn it off.

I did clean out the pilot jet with a wire strand. I don't have any compressed air. Would one of those cans of air work? I don't have a compressor any more. I took that side plate off when I was cleaning it. I didn't take the rubber part out though.

As for the choke I've been pushing it down away from me to put it on. And pulling it back up to turn it off.

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I did clean out the pilot jet with a wire strand. I don't have any compressed air. Would one of those cans of air work? I don't have a compressor any more. I took that side plate off when I was cleaning it. I didn't take the rubber part out though.

As for the choke I've been pushing it down away from me to put it on. And pulling it back up to turn it off.

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I did clean out the pilot jet with a wire strand. I don't have any compressed air. Would one of those cans of air work? I don't have a compressor any more. I took that side plate off when I was cleaning it. I didn't take the rubber part out though.

As for the choke I've been pushing it down away from me to put it on. And pulling it back up to turn it off.

Well your choke operation sounds wrong to me if I understand you correctly. The choke lever is attached to the carb at a pivot point..The end of the lever where you put your fingers should be pointing semi towards the ground when the choke is off (no choke)..The end of the lever where you put your fingers should be pointing towards the gas tank or close to that direction when you are using choke.(choke on),,Seems to me like you are doing things the opposite to what should be happening..You are using choke when you shouldn't be,,thus a rich bike and a possible conk out when the bike warms up or a harder to start bike if it's cold..

 

It's a 3 position lever..off,,half choke,,full choke..Change your method of use and the bike should work properly.

Edited by Horri
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