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2011 rmz 450 stalling

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Hey guys my 2011 rmz 450 is stalling out on me. I just did an engine rebuild on it, and threw it back together to this issue. Ran great before the motor was out. It starts good and it will run for 2-3 min then just cut out. Or if I rev it up then let the idle drop back down it will stall. It always starts right back up though. Something isn't right, im leaning towards a bad sensor. Ive cleaned all the connectors and still have the issue. Anyone have any methods on testing sensors? In the service manual it says to just run a diagnostic check on the bike but I don't have the test light to plug into the harness.

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Yeah I haven't even ridden it cause it would stall constantly in corners but I can get it hot and it will still start and idle for a few min then it will die. Idle is turned all the way up too.


But even with the idle all the way up it is not idling high

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sounds like a bad sensor or injector to me. You should be able to have the local shop run a diagnostic for you at minimal cost. I think my shop charges $10 to plug in the light and read it for you.

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I made a light using a an old "how to thread" in this Forum. It was suprisingly easy to do, of course my bike didn't throw any codes, but it was nice to know. I would assume however that your bike would go into "limp mode" if it was a bad sensor and your bike would keep running and not stall.   

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I made a light using a an old "how to thread" in this Forum. It was suprisingly easy to do, of course my bike didn't throw any codes, but it was nice to know. I would assume however that your bike would go into "limp mode" if it was a bad sensor and your bike would keep running and not stall.   

Any more info on how to make the diag light? I searched around but couldnt find out any info

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Since the bike runs could I plug in a test light to the diag light pin then run the bike, would my test light flash the code out? Or is reading diag codes from the special light more complicated then that?

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Ok so i got the test light hooked up to read codes, and unfortunately it threw no codes. So nothing wrong with the sensors or efi system. With the idle turned al the way up it is still idling really low, I think this is the only issue but its an issue with the idle. If I rev it up sometimes it will be idling really high (like it should with the idle knob turned all the way up) but then all of a sudden it will fall back down to a low idle then stall out. I also just replaced the spark plug today since my other one was old and it didn't help much as I still have this issue. So what could control the idle and causing it to be so low and not adjust correctly with the knob? 

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just an update. I loosened the tps, moved it around then set it back into position and tightened it up. Bike has ran great ever since.

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just an update. I loosened the tps, moved it around then set it back into position and tightened it up. Bike has ran great ever since.

right on buddy..Good job. I hate the TPS

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Pretty cool.  You reset the TPS without any tools?  Just loosened it moved it around and tightened it back where it was?  That is great.  I purposely never touch the TPS on all the EFI bikes I have owned because I don't have any electrical equipment/know how.  I read up on it a little in the KTM forum when I owned the 350 but that is ancient history.  Perhaps someone who knows how to reset the TPS can enlighten us. :rolleyes:

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Pretty cool.  You reset the TPS without any tools?  Just loosened it moved it around and tightened it back where it was?  That is great.  I purposely never touch the TPS on all the EFI bikes I have owned because I don't have any electrical equipment/know how.  I read up on it a little in the KTM forum when I owned the 350 but that is ancient history.  Perhaps someone who knows how to reset the TPS can enlighten us. :rolleyes:

Unfortunately no, I had to use some tools. The TPS was actually out of adjustment so resetting it took care of my issue and it runs great now. I didn't use any Suzuki specific tools, But you will need a multi meter to read the voltage of the tps. Then I just used a jump box and wires and connected power and ground to the service port behind the front number plate to power the tps while I checked the voltage. It was pretty simple. I also checked codes by just connecting a wire to one end of a test light and plugging it into the red wire for the fi light connector and put the test light into the red/white wire. Lit up fine to show codes(although a misadjusted tps did not throw any codes)

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