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Clutch drags

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My 250XCW now has 500 miles, 28 hours and the clutch has dragged from day one.

I assumed when it was new that it would break-in but no change. I tried to pull it off the trailer tonight in gear with the clutch in and could not move it.

I am running Motorex, have not tried bleeding.

Funny thin is that my son's '04 200EXC is the same way.

Is this just the KTM way?

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I don't know if you have the DDS clutch, but I'm still searching for a cure as my 13' 300 dragged since day 1. I've tried some different things, such as different oils and bleeding the fluid. The most success I had though was with removing the retaining clip on the pushrod that contained the thrust bearing. Then I doubled up the thrust washers. Still doesn't freewheel like a proper clutch should but at least I can start in gear with that setup.

I'll be looking at other options this offseason, maybe replace the while assembly with an aftermarket clutch hub (if one exists)... My experience with DDS is Drag, Drag, Stall.

I've read other complaints on this design as well. For example, one guy has had success with a different sized steel plate to take the wobble out of the clutch pack when there isn't any clamping force being applied. Search YouTube for DDS clutch to see it. There doesn't seems to be a cure and I'm wondering how wide spread this issue may be?

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To answer your question: as far as I'm aware it was never a KTM thing.

My 04 450 EXC, 06 200 XCW, 11 350 SXF have all had normal clutch operation, at least similar to any other motorcycle, where you could push it in gear with the bike off and not struggle...

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I have bleed the hydraulics several times. Both vacuum and in reverse through a syringe.

After a lot of trial and error I finally discovered that the master cylinder was partially plugged with debris. After a good cleaning and compressed air it was able to gain acceptable performance.

It still drags a bit too much when cold but when warm and in 2nd gear I can push the bike in gear without much fuss. I'm am more satisfied now with the DDS clutch disengagement than I was in the past.

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I have a 2012 250 xcw and my clutch is the same way. I also tried back bleeding and still the same. It sucks for me cause it drags alot in 1st so some times the e start cant start unless in neutral. I would like a cure for this also.

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has anyone figured out this problem with the clutch drag been looking all over and can't find a good solution.  checked the clutch and filed basket.  back bleed the master cylinder. wondering what another idea is. just want to be able to kick it in gear

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If you have filed the basket have you filed / machined the centre hub ??

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I have a 2012 250 xcw and my clutch is the same way. I also tried back bleeding and still the same. It sucks for me cause it drags alot in 1st so some times the e start cant start unless in neutral. I would like a cure for this also.
I don't think you can expect it to start in gears with the starter , too much drag

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when you bleed, pull the banjo fitting off the slave and fill it with fluid through the hole, then reconnect the banjo and bleed.   All bike clutches drag more or less.  More when the fluid is cold, more when the bike sat for a long time, more with thicker fluids.  Unlike a car clutch the plates are not pulled apart when you squeeze the clutch, pressure is just taken off of them, they can be "glued" together with sticky oil.  I have a 1000ccc bike that will send you through the garage door when you stomp it in gear if it's sat for along time. I warm it up in neutral blipping the throttle with the clutch squeezed to help rattle the plates free.  Might try that ?

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5 hours ago, kevin kresker said:

no I didn't file the center of the hub you think that would make it stop dragging?

Well if you have wear on fingers and hub ( usual ) then if the fingers can catch the plates : so can the hub.... imo. 

I did my lads 65 and it worked . 

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I feel that same thing, a slight drag when clutch is depressed in gear. I have always been abel to kick start it in gear and also push with a bit of resistance. I have chalked it up as normal operation. I guess you could run thinner gear oil. It only lets up after the clutch is toasted. 

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