Swingarm bearings?

So I'm doing the swingarm bearings on my drz for the first time ever. When I removed the swingarm what was left of the bearings (not much....) fell out of the swingarm and I didn't really have a chance to see how they fit in there. The bearing kit i ordered wont be here till the end of the week so i cant even compare them to the new bearings. Does anyone have a picture of the placement order of these bearings? I did a search but only thing I could find was old threads with dead pics. Oh and there is a collar in the center of either side of the swingarm, am I supposed to press these out? I hit it with a MAPP torch but couldn't get them to budge. Thanks!

Edited by Gsxrstuntdrz

Don't take out the collar! It keeps the bearings from moving further in. Use a sharp punch and chisel them out. No heat.

Don't take out the collar! It keeps the bearings from moving further in. Use a sharp punch and chisel them out. No heat.

Cool everything but those collars came right out, I wasn't sure if they were supposed to stay in since it looked like the bearing kit came with new ones

Don't take out the collar! It keeps the bearings from moving further in. Use a sharp punch and chisel them out. No heat.

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There is no "collar" to be retained or pressed out.

 The swing arm has a smooth bore.

 The caged needle bearing (#2) with a shell is pressed in to that bore.

 

Once the needle bearing is pressed out, there will be nothing in the swing arm bore.

 

Once out and clean, Needle bearing #2 is pressed in to the correct depth.

Torrington bearing #3 is set in next.

Then the grease seal # 4

On that same side.. but on the inside...

Grease seal #4 is pressed in.

The the spacer is slid into place.. (the spacer is also the bearing "cone"... or where the other side of the needle bearings ride. )

 

The aftermarket kits do no use a Torrington thrust bearing.. but a thrust washer.. Some are a single piece plastic type, some a three piece steel washers sandwiching a composite center "washer"  

 

 website%20swing%20arm%20teflon%20correct

The FAQ does a good job of explaining disassembly. Not so much on the assembly side of things. All it's says is "in the reverse order" and my bearings all ended up on the floor in millions of tiny pieces so I had no clue what the reverse order would be haha.

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This is what I was referring to as a "collar" sorry this is the first time ive done this and as you can tell I am unfamiliar with it. Maybe you should consider adding that post to the FAQ Erik, that was extremely helpful

Edited by Gsxrstuntdrz

No worry's ,, not flaming ya.. just trying to get you the assistance needed.

 

That is not a collar, it is the bearing shell, and needs to come out.

 

 The pic above and my text I "think?" shows the order to be installed.. If not.. please tell us what is still confusing and I'll try and go farther. 

Quick question, I got the moose kit with the thrust washer.

ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1382480929.335055.jpg

I get that this replaces #3, but in what order?

  • Engine Case
  • Silver T-Spacer 
  • Seal
  • Needle Bearing
  • Flat Washer (silver)
  • Thrust Washer (yellow teflon coated side facing outward, toward frame)
  • Flat Washer (silver)
  • Seal
  • Spacer (gold)
  • Frame

Or specific to your question... #3 is replaced with the gold spacer>steel washer> teflon thrust washer> steel washer

Perfect thanks. So the thick washer in my pic is number 11 on the fiche?

Edited by Gsxrstuntdrz

Courtesy of bmwpowere36m3

IMG_06291.jpg

That's how I had it just double checking. That pic is awesome by the way.

 Maybe you should consider adding that post to the FAQ Erik, that was extremely helpful

Good idea.. Done

Pivot Works does use the correct Torrington thrust bearing like the OEM. All balls use a plastic thrust washer.

Pivot Works does use the correct Torrington thrust bearing like the OEM. All balls use a plastic thrust washer.

 

True, but the picture above is an All Balls kit that I was going to use and the thrust washer is steel, just coated with teflon on one side.  So not just a plastic washer... though I can't comment on its performance/longevity in this application.

I was just trying to point out that the PW kit is more correct to the OEM. PW also uses exact duplicates of the oem seals which is actually more important than many people realize.  

Erik:

 

  Once out and clean, Needle bearing #2 is pressed in to the correct depth.

 

Would you please tell us the correct depth?

 

I assume it's pressed in from the outboard side, yes?

 

Is there a depth tolerance?  That is, for arguments sake, lets say I pressed it to a depth of 1/2 inch, measured from the side of the bearing to (external outside barrel of swingarm?), and it should be 3/4" inch... So, maybe 1/4 inch is acceptable tolerance?  Like that, that's what I'm asking about, the acceptable tolerance of the press depth...

 

if I use a slide hammer to get the old one out, do I use that same hammer to press in the new one? or, do I have to buy a correct sized drift also? (if yes, I have to buy the drift too, what size is that?)

 

The FAQ shows a picture of a cleaned and greased bearing. It looks to be swabbed on, prolly with a finger.  Is that the way of it? just goop it on with a finger, or is there some method of pressing in the grease like an automotive wheel bearing?

 

Thanks for your patience with me!

Erik:

 

 

 

 

Would you please tell us the correct depth?

It,s not critical, like say the water pump impeller depth setting.

 

The swing arm bearing is pressed in from outside to in, so that it is about .25mm past the edge of the bore (below).

 

The edge of the bearing needs to be below the edge of the swingarm bore, so the thrust bearing washer is not touching the pivot bearing. 

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 No do not hammer them in... A length of all thread, large nuts and stacks of various sized washers does a nice enough job of it. 

 

I use a driver that I made on my lathe... but bottom line, "pushing" it into place is the better idea then pounding it in.

 

Grease is moderate to heavy coating with a  good water proof grease like BelRay

Don't use a slide hammer for install... Get a piece of all thread, two nuts and some washers. Use a socket the same size as the bearing and a socket larger than the bore to make a press. The bearings will slide right in, if they don't go in perfectly straight at first a few light taps with a rubber mallet will straighten them out

Thanks Gentlemen.

 

Those procedures are very clear to me now.

 

 

Erik: One more, please.

 

I do not know what a "slide hammer" looks like (to get them out, only).  Could you please show me a picture?

 

Thanks very much...

 

Bob

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