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halp - where do I adjust 2008 DRZ400SM chain?


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My chain seems really loose, and I'd like to tighten it a little.  On my last bike there was a nut on the end of the swingarm that would push the axle in or out.  Easy to adjust....

...but it looks like the only way to do that on this bike is from the side (just behind the weld).  Is this true?  Seems a bit odd.  I only have socket wrenches, so am I out-of-luck?

chain01.jpg

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My chain seems really loose, and I'd like to tighten it a little.  On my last bike there was a nut on the end of the swingarm that would push the axle in or out.  Easy to adjust....

...but it looks like the only way to do that on this bike is from the side (just behind the weld).  Is this true?  Seems a bit odd.  I only have socket wrenches, so am I out-of-luck?

Yes you're out of luck if you only have sockets, if you have the OEM tool kit the necessary tools should be in there.

Otherwise you will need to buy a couple of open end spanners.

I would suggest getting the correct tools, doing a complete removal of the adjuster bolts and put either anti seize or some water proof grease on the threads and reassemble..  

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Yes you're out of luck if you only have sockets, if you have the OEM tool kit the necessary tools should be in there.

Otherwise you will need to buy a couple of open end spanners.

I would suggest getting the correct tools, doing a complete removal of the adjuster bolts and put either anti seize or some water proof grease on the threads and reassemble..  

 

Cool, thanks for the reply.  I think I have the OEM tools buried somewhere in my garage, so I guess this gives me an excuse to do some cleaning.

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Of course you need open ended spanners....

12mm for the lock nut and 10mm for the adjuster...

Make sure you have adjuster marks the same on both sides after adjustment, and pick the rotation tight spot of the chain to do you adjusting on....

After you think you done sit on the bike (with a friend if available ? ) and compress the rear suspension to make sure it's not too tight...

Edited by Craigo 485sm
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My chain seems really loose, and I'd like to tighten it a little.  On my last bike there was a nut on the end of the swingarm that would push the axle in or out.  Easy to adjust....

...but it looks like the only way to do that on this bike is from the side (just behind the weld).  Is this true?  Seems a bit odd.  I only have socket wrenches, so am I out-of-luck?

Practically every MX bike and sport bike made adjusts the chain that way... Having the axle blocks inside the swingarm on adjuster bolts (your last bike) has become a bit of a rarity in the last 15 or so years, and even Nautilus cams (DRZ400S style) are few and far between.

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Practically every MX bike and sport bike made adjusts the chain that way... Having the axle blocks inside the swingarm on adjuster bolts (your last bike) has become a bit of a rarity in the last 15 or so years, and even Nautilus cams (DRZ400S style) are few and far between.

 

The SM chain adjustment method is more precise for chain adjustment .....

With the cam style adjusters quite often the chain can be too loose and when you go to the next click it will be too tight..

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Of course you need open ended spanners....

12mm for the lock nut and 10mm for the adjuster...

Make sure you have adjuster marks the same on both sides after adjustment, and pick the rotation tight spot of the chain to do you adjusting on....

After you think you done sit on the bike (with a friend if available ? ) and compress the rear suspension to make sure it's not too tight...

Yeah , if you get enough weight on the bike so that the countershaft , swingarm pivot and axle are in line . You only need 1/2' chain slack at this point .

The chain will be at its tightest when the 3 points are in line .

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My chain seems really loose, and I'd like to tighten it a little.  On my last bike there was a nut on the end of the swingarm that would push the axle in or out.  Easy to adjust....

...but it looks like the only way to do that on this bike is from the side (just behind the weld).  Is this true?  Seems a bit odd.  I only have socket wrenches, so am I out-of-luck?

This is a double bonus for you. You get to go TOOL SHOPPING and work on your own bike.

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got the chain adjusted.... not as cumbersome as I thought it would be.

 

After further examination, WHERE IS YOUR LOWER CHAIN GUIDE? Are both chain rollers in there? This could be why your chain is hanging so much.

 

previous owner removed it (don't ask me why).... I still have it sitting in the "box of parts" which I found the tools in. 

 

I see one chain roller (behind the side-stand)... where would the other one be?

Edited by joey v
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got the chain adjusted.... not as cumbersome as I thought it would be.

 

 

previous owner removed it (don't ask me why).... I still have it sitting in the "box of parts" which I found the tools in. 

 

I see one chain roller (behind the side-stand)... where would the other one be?

Above the swingarm for the top run of the chain, stops the chain from hitting the air box when the suspension compresses..

Chain guide is not needed on the road, it is there to stop the chain from getting knocked off the rear sprocket from rocks and sticks when riding off road.

But it does have the added advantage of keeping your foot out of the rear sprocket in the event of a get off,ask Daryl Beattie about that. 

From Wiki,

Beattie had a lackluster season in 1994 on a Team Roberts Marlboro Yamaha. During the 1994 season at the French Le Mans circuit, he crashed and lost all the toes from one foot after his foot was caught between the chain and rear sprocket. 

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