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Replacement Chain Issues

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I looked around a bit and didn't find anything helpful. I replaced my sprockets and chain and now I have a vibration around 40-45 mph. Turns out the chain I bought is a POS according to some comments on some other forums. I got it because it was black and an o-ring type for a good price. I know; you get what you pay for.

When I installed the chain the rivet style master link gave me some issues and didn't set all that easily. I'm concerned the master may have been damaged somehow and this is possibly the cause of the vibration. Everything else checks out; CS sprocket is seated and the nut is tight; the rear sprocket is seated on the hub and the bolts are tight, axle is aligned and chain is rolling straight. No vibration prior to the new driveline pieces and I haven't changed anything else.

Anyone ever run into anything similar? I've ordered a DID chain as I should have in the first place. Any help is appreciated.

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What model motorcycle?

 

Identify what brand chain and sprockets are giving the vibration.  What is the tooth count of the sprockets? Same as before?

 

It could be the chain, it could be the sprockets or it could be an assembly error.

 

Motorcycle on a stand, rear wheel off the ground.  What is the chain slack?  Does the slack change as you rotate the rear wheel?  Any kinks in the chain?

 

Are the wheels balanced.

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What model motorcycle?

Identify what brand chain and sprockets are giving the vibration. What is the tooth count of the sprockets? Same as before?

It could be the chain, it could be the sprockets or it could be an assembly error.

Motorcycle on a stand, rear wheel off the ground. What is the chain slack? Does the slack change as you rotate the rear wheel? Any kinks in the chain?

Are the wheels balanced.

'06 S

Sprockets are JT and the chain is Volar. 15/47 on new sprocket sizes and I was running 14/44 before.

About 1 1/2" of slack as recommended in manual. Slack stays the same and no kinks.

Wheels are balanced. 40-45 mph is a good speed for out of balance to to show but no vibration prior to sprocket and chain install.

I'm pretty convinced the master link got tweeted due to difficulties during install. My research into this brand of chain advised of issues with their masters.

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Put the bike on the stand and rotate the tire. Watch the chain slack as you rotate the tire. See if the chain slack gets tighter and looser as the chain passes a pre selected point

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Found it... As commented by people on another forum the pins used by this manufacture are not quality and are subject to issues. One of the pins in the master link was tweaked. I'm sure I did it during install but I didn't force any part of the install. New DID chain and master link en route.

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Found it... As commented by people on another forum the pins used by this manufacture are not quality and are subject to issues. One of the pins in the master link was tweaked. I'm sure I did it during install but I didn't force any part of the install. New DID chain and master link en route.

 

+1 on the DID!

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Found it... As commented by people on another forum the pins used by this manufacture are not quality and are subject to issues. One of the pins in the master link was tweaked. I'm sure I did it during install but I didn't force any part of the install. New DID chain and master link en route.

 

 

show us the damaged pins on the chain (nevermind the master, we've all seen them damaged) ? 

 

i'd be suprised the chain was causing any vibration, unless there is excessive slack in it and it's slapping while the engine is lugging at 40 mph. 5th gear would be a little too high at only 40mph, and there will be some slapping around of it. try it in 4th and see if it's lessened, or mount a gopro to watch the difference ? 

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show us the damaged pins on the chain (nevermind the master, we've all seen them damaged) ?

i'd be suprised the chain was causing any vibration, unless there is excessive slack in it and it's slapping while the engine is lugging at 40 mph. 5th gear would be a little too high at only 40mph, and there will be some slapping around of it. try it in 4th and see if it's lessened, or mount a gopro to watch the difference ?

As I stated above the master was damaged and appeared to be the only offending part of the chain.

Also as stated above the slack in the chain was adjusted properly.

When I get the new chain installed I'll update as to whether the vibration is still present or not.

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DID chain arrived today. Installed it and went for a short ride. I need to get some more seat time to be sure but I believe the vibration is gone. This chain came with a clip style master. I'm not sold on it but I'll give it a shot.

ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1382743783.935010.jpg

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DID chain arrived today. Installed it and went for a short ride.

 

Which DID did you go with?

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aw man that's no good, throw it away now and put the o-ring chain back on.

yes, i'm serious.

Nope, stays on. Nothing wrong with this chain. Just needs a little lube every now and then. Change the oil, clean the air filter, air up the tires, and lube the chain. An hours work on a Saturday afternoon.

OEM chain was nearly the same and worked beautifully for 8,700+ miles.

And why would I put a chain that had mechanical issues back on???

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No doubt your non O ring DID is a quality chain.  But as you note, it will need more maintenance.  The original chain was O ring so there is no comparison as to the amount of maintenance needed OEM vs your DID replacement.  Carefully maintained it can last as long as the original.  Most people are not that anal about chain lube so sealed chain makes sense for most of us.

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I made the mistake of trying a non oring on the drz( an RK racing chain, its lasted about 3,000 miles, and was stretched beyond recognition.

The best chain I ran was the regina oring heavy one, I got about 14,000 miles before I saw any degrade.

But IMO the higher end xring chains that DID offers are about the best, course DID also produces cheaper ones too.

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