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Real E Jetting to tide me over - Opinions?

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So I have my top end and carb on my desk and I'm recording gaps, specs and tolerances for future reference and I notice that my DXP needle clip is on 4th from top and my main jet is 165.


The rest of my setup:


Stock pipe, baffle drilled - spark arrestor removed

Snorkel removed

CE removed  (hose connecting open nipples)

Twin Air foam filter


165 Main jet

45 Pilot jet

Fuel screw at 2 turns

DXP at 4th clip from the top


As far as I know, a 158-160  main jet with the DXP needle clip at 5th from top for an opened up E at the coast is the optimal configuration.


Now my question, should I leave the clip where it is until I can get a 158/160 MJ or put it on 5th from top now?

OR, when I get the correct jets, drop it to 5th position on the needle to raise the needle? 


Thanks in advance.

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I would go clip #5 now for near sea level...


What are your riding conditions and altitude.??....Do you have another needle on order..?


What did you do with your top end, just a rebuild..?

Edited by Craigo 485sm

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I would go clip #5 now for near sea level...


What are your riding conditions and altitude.??....Do you have another needle on order..?


What did you do with your top end, just a rebuild..?

Thanks for the response, I realize that the 5th position is recommended but that is with a smaller main jet, my thinking is that because the main jet is larger, I should keep it on 4th as to not be too rich at 1/3-2/3 throttle?


Conditions are mixed, this is my do-it-all bike so from black top to tight trail, from coast to 2000ft.

I don't have a needle on order, only the main jet which is from a local supplier, I'll do a jet and needle kit when I upgrade the exhaust.


Why is my top end in pieces? Well this is gonna be lengthy one if you care to read it...


I bought the bike with 4000 miles on it, in good physical condition but ever since I got it there were a few things that didn't seem/feel right and the bars were bent. The price was right and the bike pulled strong, so I bought it anyway.


When I got it home I dumped the oil and was shocked to see the condition, and I also found some grey "paste" on the drain plug from an unknown source. I continued to do the stator side loctite fixes expecting to see that that grey paste was from a backed out bolt eating the case, but all was good and tight in there.

I decided that the oil was just so old that it had accumulated a lot of junk over time so I put a fresh filter and quality oil in there. 


Next thing to address, the clutch would judder when cold and generally had a bad action. After I took the clutch pack out to inspect, I found the culprit, it was the judder spring that was installed the wrong way around  :naughty:


Next was a rattle coming from the head area so I pulled the valve cover and checked the valve clearances, all were in spec with the inlet valves being on the tighter side of in spec so I shimmed them a little looser. I checked the auto decomp, but it didn't seem looser than my SM's which didn't rattle.

I then pulled the ACCT and found it to be at the limit which I found strange at such low mileage. 

After I ordered a new chain and installed the MCCT, the rattle was gone, all purring away nicely, but it was stuck in the back of my mind that the cam chain stretched so much in only 4000 something miles. I also noticed I was using some oil, more than my 20 000 mile SM (which doesn't use a drop worth mentioning between changes) so I decided I'm going to just set my mind at ease and pull the top end apart to look for damage, if nothing was found to be wrong it would only cost me a top end gasket set.


Firstly I dumped the oil which only had 1000 miles on it if that much and found more of that "paste" so then I pulled the cams out, and only one had some black substance on it but it came off with parts cleaner and I polished the journals, they all got very shiny real quick so no damage there.


Then I noticed something... the front cam chain guide was, well, not there  :eek:

That explained the slack in the cam chain, and also the rattle but the biggest thing, it exposed the source of the grey "paste"... it was the chain slamming against the case where the guide should be and it was eating away at it  :lame:


I continued to strip the motor because cod knows what else was wrong. 


I ended up taking off the head, jug and carb just to go through everything and to my surprise, the piston and cylinder surface is good, nice and smooth. Upon checking the connecting rod play and clearance, I found it all to be in spec, exceedingly so, and pivoting it on the crank is smooth. The wrist pin also looks good.


After using the manual to check every clearance possible and assessing the damage, all that I'm going to replace are the rings and the wrist pin since I don't like reusing them and obviously the front cam chain guide. I got the clutch side gasket for the primary nut/counter balancer nut loctite fixes so I'll do those while I'm at it.


The rest of the bike is in really good condition, but I have no idea why the head was off and why the front cam chain guide is missing, I measured the cylinder just to check that it didn't perhaps get a big bore at some stage, but it's 90mm, stock standard.


So there you have it, sorry for the long story but hey, you asked  :prof:


TL;DR - Front cam chain guide was missing upon inspection and I pulled it apart to see if anything else was wrong.

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well fair enough...that explains my question very well ...lol


BTW.....For jetting purposes the E model exhaust is classified as a free flow muffler,,,,so your jetting won't change enough to require re jetting for say an ssw/mrd...or similarly open pipe


The stock needle is in my opinion only an average performance deal, I would install an OCEMN for better performance....but it will come at the expense of a slight increase in fuel consumption...


Main jet  affects 3/4 to wide open throttle.... the richer needle setting won't significantly affect that 165 main jet...

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