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Stripped bolt...what to do?

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Hey everyone. So, as I was doing my first transmission oil change on my 150sx, the bolt below the rear break lever that you must remove to drain the oil was stripped and now just freely spins.  The one on the other side is completely fine (150sx's have 2 bolts to drain), and was the one that I removed first.  I'm now wondering what I should do now?  Obviously, I should have it tapped out and re-threaded, but I'm not entirely comfortable doing this by myself (it kills me to say this), so who do you think should do it, and will it be expensive?

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Hey everyone. So, as I was doing my first transmission oil change on my 150sx, the bolt below the rear break lever that you must remove to drain the oil was stripped and now just freely spins.  The one on the other side is completely fine (150sx's have 2 bolts to drain), and was the one that I removed first.  I'm now wondering what I should do now?  Obviously, I should have it tapped out and re-threaded, but I'm not entirely comfortable doing this by myself (it kills me to say this), so who do you think should do it, and will it be expensive?

You should do it, it's not that hard. Also, it's too late now but don't use that one...:) The drain on the brake side strips easily, as you now know. I don't use that one on my bike.

Get a helicoil kit, comes with everything you need to fix it and will cost around 20 bucks. If you are nervous use a piece of scrap steel and practice with a few, it's really simple and will save you quite a bit over having a shop do it. If you were in the area I'd help you out...

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Thanks for the heads up! I'll give it a shot. Yea, I guess the owner before me must have stripped it because when I went to loosen it, there was no resistance which made me think that's not right.

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So, after not being confident with the bolt, I removed it after draining all my tranny oil again.  Turns out, it was already helicoiled and when I removed the bolt, it pushed the threaded piece into the engine. Luckily, I was able to get it all out without it breaking.  Now, I'm not sure if I should helicoil it again, or just get a bolt that is a little bigger and thread it in and silicone it shut for good. :confused:

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So, after not being confident with the bolt, I removed it after draining all my tranny oil again.  Turns out, it was already helicoiled and when I removed the bolt, it pushed the threaded piece into the engine. Luckily, I was able to get it all out without it breaking.  Now, I'm not sure if I should helicoil it again, or just get a bolt that is a little bigger and thread it in and silicone it shut for good. :confused:

Since the drain is known to strip, and you have the magnetic one on the other side I see no major issues with closing it up with RTV or silicone. Not sure if straight silicone will hold up in the presence of oil? I've not had a helicoil fail, not saying they can't, just hasn't happened to me.

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I havent used the sight plug for yrs. The 2 stroke tranny is not under pressure, its just a bath. I over fill it a bit. Then change it when its time. If you measure the anount that you put in, no worries.

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I havent used the sight plug for yrs. The 2 stroke tranny is not under pressure, its just a bath. I over fill it a bit. Then change it when its time. If you measure the anount that you put in, no worries.

 

That is what I do, except for having a check bolt instead of a sight glass.

 

Could JB or epoxy be used instead of silicun t?

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Thanks for the heads up! I'll give it a shot. Yea, I guess the owner before me must have stripped it because when I went to loosen it, there was no resistance which made me think that's not right.

 

 

I would definitely get it helicoiled by a professional mate. Its all well and good to DIY on simple things but if you screw this one up, you're gonna be punching straight through to expensive transmission and crankcases.

 

When it comes to bike repairs, I like to live by this mantra: Tightarsery saves NOTHING! And this is a perfect case. If you decide to save the $50 from taking it in to have the shop do it, you could end up paying $550 for a new gear. Or if you plug him up with silicone for good, you could end up finding out it DOESN'T hold up to hot oil when your transmission explodes on the track.

 

The guy that said don't use the brake ide one, I find it better ot use that one because the countershaft side one typically gets some spray from the chain lube making it easy to strip the head. Just what I've found though. I pressure wash my baby after every use but the adhesive lubricant stays stuck.

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^^^ Personally I would not go anywhere near it with a helicoil, drill or tap without the cases being split. Asking for swarf to get where it shouldn't IMO.

 

A six sided socket would help not damage the head of the bolt.

Edited by BushPig

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^^^ Personally I would not go anywhere near it with a helicoil, drill or tap without the cases being split. Asking for swarf to get where it shouldn't IMO.

 

A six sided socket would help not damage the head of the bolt.

 

 

quite so yes, but sometimes without adequate pressure on the back of hte ratchet, it slips upwards off the head. 

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The guy that said don't use the brake ide one, I find it better ot use that one because the countershaft side one typically gets some spray from the chain lube making it easy to strip the head. Just what I've found though. I pressure wash my baby after every use but the adhesive lubricant stays stuck.

Through research and the advice of others on this site I've heard about too many people stripping out the threads on the brake side drain. I use the shifter side which is a beefier magnetic drain plug. I've use both sides, but the brake side is tucked way in and a bit of a pain to get a wrench on, same goes for the check screw.

My bike gets washed after every ride, and I don't use a traditional chain lube, no gunk or build up on my bike :). I use the shifter side drain and lay the bike on its side to completely drain, measure the proper amount of oil and dump it in. Oh, and of course I tourque it properly as well.

I quit using traditional lube about a year and a half ago. After every ride and wash I dry my chain and give it a good soaking with WD-40. It penetrates the steel chain, keeps it from rusting, and doesn't fling off or attract the dirt that lube does. After 30 hrs on this chain and sprockets there is no mess, and very little wear. I ride in a lot of sand so the chain would grab the sand if I used lube, no problems with the wd.

Also, what model do you have? The 150 has very little room to access the drain and check bolts on the brake side, the one on the shifter side is very easy to access. I know on the 200 and larger bore models have a different placement on the cases...

Edited by poldies4

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