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2009 TTR 110e charging question

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What I originally thought was a fueling problem may be an electrical issue instead.  With the bike idling I get 6v at the battery terminals (no battery attached at this time).  Battery tests 12.8v on the work bench.

 

I'm testing my stator according to the many youtube videos out there.  The continuity between the phases is okay (no open circuits).  But when I check AC volts while the bike is idling, I get 22v on one leg, 18v on another and 6v on the third.  A visual inspection of the stator looks clean & bright (no burnt wires, melted insulation or burnt smell).  Before I replace a $200 stator, I'd like to check the regulator/rectifier as well.  The generic youtube video shows a diode test with a 5 wire rectifier (red, black & 3 yellow on this sample Honda).  My R/R has 4 terminals (two yellow, a black, and two red attached) in the block.  Can anyone help with detailed steps how to test the R/R?  Thanks!

 

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Voltages should be even between phases on the stator.  Most bikes are very limited on charging at idle speeds and run off the battery but by 2000 rpm the bike should certainly be able to make full output.  To do this properly you need a tool called a Megohmeter which is a DC generator that makes a high voltage (usually you test at double normal operating voltage) but is limited on the amount of current it makes to limit further damage.  You test from each of the three output legs to the metal backing plate for the stator.  I mean I don't know 12v stuff that well but 30 MOhms or less would be considered very questionable for a typical 480v AC motor.  Your 12v stator that probably runs upwards of 65-70 volts and upwards of 130 volts in street bike applications should probably be able to maintain 500kOhm-10MOhm of resistance to ground with 120 volts applied.

 

But that being said at this point you have a bad enough current leakage to ground (the stator plate) that you may be able to detect it with a conventional multimeter if it has the ability to read MOhms.  With only 3 output wires you cannot test for leakage from phase to phase but that could also indicate problems.  It is best to do this with the stator removed from the bike.

Edited by 1987CR250R

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Thanks!  I only have a digital multimeter, but i will at least check again at 2000 rpm instead of idle.

 

Any idea how to test the rectifier/regulator?  thx

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