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08 crf450r fork height

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I tried to do a google search but couldn't find much.

Do you guys mess with the fork height on your crfs much? How high up into the clamps can you got before you get yourself into trouble?

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I run mine 5mm up in the clamps. My bike turns great. Never needed to move up any more.

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I run mine 5mm up in the clamps. My bike turns great. Never needed to move up any more.

Is the 5mm measured from the top of the fork tube, or the top of the inner chamber hex? Or is it from the "scribe line" that's on the fork tube?

Edited by Groves238

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I measure mine from the where the inner chamber meets the outer/upper fork tube. From what I understand, the scribe line is for running the optional smaller front wheel.

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Are you having trouble with your bike turning or handling?

Yeah it seams to like pushing wide in corners where the ruts really haven't formed... so I have to slow down to much to get the bike squared up before I get back into the throttle.. (I have good bridgstones so Its not the tires)

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Yeah it seams to like pushing wide in corners where the ruts really haven't formed... so I have to slow down to much to get the bike squared up before I get back into the throttle.. (I have good bridgstones so Its not the tires)

Have you checked your linkage bearings? If they have v not been serviced properly, it will cause your bike to not settle properly and get the handling characteristics your seeing. Had this happen with 3 different used bikes I have purchased.

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We recommend the forks flush at the clamps to provide traction on the front wheel nearly on all models.

Not trying to argue with you on this... but doesn't making the forks flush put more weight on the rear tire? Please explain.

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Have you checked your linkage bearings? If they have v not been serviced properly, it will cause your bike to not settle properly and get the handling characteristics your seeing. Had this happen with 3 different used bikes I have purchased.

Im pretty anal on maitenance on my bikes... so I actually did just repack them. But I am starting to get a little up and down play in the rear suspension so its about time for a full linkage rebuild.... (assuming your talking more about it binding)

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Im pretty anal on maitenance on my bikes... so I actually did just repack them. But I am starting to get a little up and down play in the rear suspension so its about time for a full linkage rebuild.... (assuming your talking more about it binding)

What I've noticed on the four used CRF s I've owned is, if the linkage shock articulation is not butter smooth you will have problems with the front end. You can test this by checking your sag multiple times with out adjusting it between measurements. If you do this and get multiple variable readings, most likely something is not correct with the rear suspension.

I ride mainly off road and when my Crf are set up properly and linkage is good the front end sticks very well. Even on hard pack.

Have you taken your front wheel off lately and reinstalled and started having this problem? If you don't reinstall your front wheel properly, your forks can bid and cause the same problem.

Check fork bushings?

I have noticed CRFS ARE very sensitive to suspension changes. 1mm of sag change is a major change for me. (I weigh 225 with gear)

The main reason I ride and race CRFs is because they handle the best for me. I really like how they handle. I don't and probably won't own a ktm because of how they handle.

My $0.02

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What I've noticed on the four used CRF s I've owned is, if the linkage shock articulation is not butter smooth you will have problems with the front end. You can test this by checking your sag multiple times with out adjusting it between measurements. If you do this and get multiple variable readings, most likely something is not correct with the rear suspension.

I ride mainly off road and when my Crf are set up properly and linkage is good the front end sticks very well. Even on hard pack.

Have you taken your front wheel off lately and reinstalled and started having this problem? If you don't reinstall your front wheel properly, your forks can bid and cause the same problem.

Check fork bushings?

I have noticed CRFS ARE very sensitive to suspension changes. 1mm of sag change is a major change for me. (I weigh 225 with gear)

The main reason I ride and race CRFs is because they handle the best for me. I really like how they handle. I don't and probably won't own a ktm because of how they handle.

My $0.02

I will recheck my sag this weekend before I go ride. I have the RG3 link on my bike so I set mine a little different than others.

When my front wheel comes off I use the motion pro tool to make sure the forks are parallel. And I check for forks to male sure they aren't twisted in the clamps quite often.

The forks and shock were recently rebuilt buy ZR1 and inspected so all that should still be good.

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What I've noticed on the four used CRF s I've owned is, if the linkage shock articulation is not butter smooth you will have problems with the front end. You can test this by checking your sag multiple times with out adjusting it between measurements. If you do this and get multiple variable readings, most likely something is not correct with the rear suspension.

I ride mainly off road and when my Crf are set up properly and linkage is good the front end sticks very well. Even on hard pack.

Have you taken your front wheel off lately and reinstalled and started having this problem? If you don't reinstall your front wheel properly, your forks can bid and cause the same problem.

Check fork bushings?

I have noticed CRFS ARE very sensitive to suspension changes. 1mm of sag change is a major change for me. (I weigh 225 with gear)

The main reason I ride and race CRFs is because they handle the best for me. I really like how they handle. I don't and probably won't own a ktm because of how they handle.

My $0.02

 

Just curious, you can repeatably measure sag to 1 mm?

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Just curious, you can repeatably measure sag to 1 mm?

Not exactly. I can tell when I move my tension nut on my shock by 1 revolution

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