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2013 crf450 front brake drag

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I know this has been asked a lot , but I just don't have time to find all the threads on it. The one I did find had some Ideas but no fixes. My front brake just started dragging recently. No crashes involved, I do have a oversized rotor on it, it's not grooved or bent,there is a constant drag only one revolution of the wheel when spun. I have replaced the pads,cleaned the rotor,replaced the brake pad pin,and the caliper float pin. I did also bleed the brake. Couldn't see any air in it. The oversized rotor is a floating tusk rotor,it has been on the bike since new. No problems till now. Just looking for some advice,don't know what to check now. I have also cleaned the pistons and the seem to move freely,and they do retract slightly to relieve pressure. So I'm at a loss here. Once again any help would be great

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IMO floating disks have no place on dirt bikes.

Brake drag is as irritating  to me as scraping a wire brush over a road rash scab.

One way to check your brake system is to replace the floating disk back to your OEM disk if the OEM is still straight.

Then see if your wheel will spin without resistance with the OEM setup.

If you still have drag with a good OEM rotor you know your brake system has a problem and there's a few things you can do to get it back in shape.

 

full fluid flush. This should be regular maintenance on any dirt bike.

clean and lube the MC piston including removing the rubber boot

clean and lube the brake lever and pivot bolt, wd40 is good for this

clean the brake caliper

clean the caliper slide pins and relube them with caliper grease. (I have used locktite synthetic grease with good results)

replace the slide pin boots, they will harden and swell over time

clean the caliper pistons with a scotchbrite pad and lube the pistons with brake fluid and work them in and out.

they should retract with minimal finger force.

I also like to bend the spring tab to relieve spring tension on the brake pads.

 

Back in my road racing days we used to go to great lengths to reduce drag to zero. including removing the wheel bearing seals in the interest of eliminating drag.

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Make sure the lever isn't hung up.  I went through all of the steps above, and finally pulled the lever out - problem solved.  The lever was ever so slightly getting hung up with the rubber boot.  I'm guessing you have aftermarket levers?  

 

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I was able to get alittle more air out of the master cylinder, but still drags slightly. It is better just not great. My levers are stock by the way.

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So I finally figured it out. I took everything apart. I meen everything! I cleaned it all. No go. Then I changed it all out to a old oversized rotor I had. It ended up being the hanger bracket from tusk is bent! It worked fine when new,don't even know when I hit it. Anyhow does anyone know where I can get a new hanger bracket ? Just the bracket for a 270 mm disc

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So I finally figured it out. I took everything apart. I meen everything! I cleaned it all. No go. Then I changed it all out to a old oversized rotor I had. It ended up being the hanger bracket from tusk is bent! It worked fine when new,don't even know when I hit it. Anyhow does anyone know where I can get a new hanger bracket ? Just the bracket for a 270 mm disc

CRFStuff sells just the brackets for 270 rotors, looks high quality.

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CRFStuff sells just the brackets for 270 rotors, looks high quality.

I seen those. But damn over a hundred bucks for just the bracket. I may have to buy a whole kit again. Which is a bummer

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Why not see if Tusk can help you a bit on the cost if you send yours in? They can use the damaged one to beef up their design.

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