If you had $1000 to rebuild blown top end, what would you do?

2000-2001 E model

  • no need for Hot Cams as I already have the aggressive A/B cams of the early models
  • already have a full FMF exhaust
  • thinking of running 2 exhaust cams since I've heard that makes it even more stout, especially since I have 3 sets of cams
  • 3 x 3 and aftermarket filter in place
  • FCR 39 flat slide carb, for those not in the know because of the year and model

top end shot, already have a head that is clean and in good order, thinking of maybe getting some light port and polishing done

 

OK, wish list time, what would you do???

 

The head flows very well in OEM spec , you need a competent tech to perform the work .

A 94mm cylinder works B bore kit would work .

Big bore as above, the ex cam conversion is risky only if you know what you are doing, worth doing if its done right, stick with the old stage 2 hotcam timing for the inlet, and a bit of the shaft needs to be ground back where the decomp unit sits, tread carefully.

Big bore as above, the ex cam conversion is risky only if you know what you are doing, worth doing if its done right, stick with the old stage 2 hotcam timing for the inlet, and a bit of the shaft needs to be ground back where the decomp unit sits, tread carefully.

 

may not mess with it then, especially if it doesn't make a big difference

 

I work at a shop and the owner/heach tech does excellent work, but I also don't want to waste his or my time doing a lot of work for little return

 

as for port/polishing, he is very skilled and suggest it even before the big bore notion came to me so I think I'm going to go 434, P/P and just run the cams A intake B exhaust as is

 

I'm not one to waste time and $$$ on stuff just to say I have it or did it, if it won't make a significant gain then I'm not interested so looks like mostly the 434 kit

Stock head is only a restriction up to about 50-55 hp according to the gurus on here, the current cams will be perfect for the BB, depending on what sort of FMF pipe you have look at it pretty carefully as this may be the cork in the works, it seems the Yoshi Ti system or the MRD SSW is the only way to go for the 48-50 HP at the wheel your proposed combo is capable of making, getting the exhaust to flow is the big thing with DRZs to get them to make good power, the exhaust port flows very well stock, problem is they become bloody loud, hope it all goes to plan for you and enjoy when its done, Im wetting my pants with my 462 build, the bits are in NZ customs as Im typing and I cant wait, I will be re-degreeing my B inlet cam (converted E exhaust cam) again just to make sure its all good, might be the first 462 in New Zealand, I cant seem to track down any others, a few 434s, one 450 Yoshi but no 462s or bigger, the build is my uni graduation present to myself.

2000-2001 E model

  • no need for Hot Cams as I already have the aggressive A/B cams of the early models
  • already have a full FMF exhaust
  • thinking of running 2 exhaust cams since I've heard that makes it even more stout, especially since I have 3 sets of cams
  • 3 x 3 and aftermarket filter in place
  • FCR 39 flat slide carb, for those not in the know because of the year and model

top end shot, already have a head that is clean and in good order, thinking of maybe getting some light port and polishing done

 

OK, wish list time, what would you do???

 

Port and polish is a 2 stroke thing.......4 strokes benefit from head flowing, like especially by a competent head specialist that uses a flow bench to measure current, potential and after gains....

 

Stock valves are good for stock cc and big bore, oversize +1mm valves work better in stroker...

 

+1 on increasing the displacement...and ssw/mrd

Any engine will benefit from head flowing, the higher the "state of Tune" of the engine, usually means bigger is the benefit of head flowing...

 

 

Below is example of a flow chart for exhaust port......

and bottom pic for intake port..

 

 

 

imap_um-mail-services_cch43680@bigpond.n

 

 

 

imap_um-mail-services_cch43680@bigpond.n

 
  AREA UNDER PORTED FLOW LINE 42.75         Date   17/01/2012   No Cylinders 1     Test Vehicle SUZUKI 485 INTAKE   Valve Diameter 37         Valve Stem Diamet 5     Operator   Chesterton       Valves/Cylinder 2  
Edited by Craigo 485sm

That's a Negative on the documentation ....M8

Yep, the little blue question mark hasn't changed AT ALL after the flow work…… That was a big waste of $$ Mr Craigo !!

Ok .. I thought it was just me being unable to read .

I sort of figured the port and polishing / head flowing or whatever one wants to call it might be more $$$ and aggravation than it's worth. I work at a shop and the owner and head tech does excellent work so I may get him to knock off a few sharp angles and edges and nothing more. It seems like it takes a lot of "flowing" to make much difference and I'm not into dumping lots of time and $$$ into stuff for minimal return.

 

I'm all for the mostest for the leastest and a big bore with aftermarket air filter and full exhaust pretty much fit that bill.

 

I don't have a specific HP goal or any specific goal, just rebuilding what some jackasses messed up and figure since I have to already have it torn down anyway I may as well put it back together bigger and better :-)

 

I will put it on the dyno when done and list what's been done to it in detail and post pics of the runs. I figure it will be fairly stout, but I'm not dumping lots of $$$ and time into it to get an extra 2-3 HP

You have a plan....good...

Big bore , ssw pipe , cams , fcr should get into the mid to high 40's......

I sort of figured the port and polishing / head flowing or whatever one wants to call it might be more $$$ and aggravation than it's worth. I work at a shop and the owner and head tech does excellent work so I may get him to knock off a few sharp angles and edges and nothing more. It seems like it takes a lot of "flowing" to make much difference and I'm not into dumping lots of time and $$$ into stuff for minimal return.

 

I'm all for the mostest for the leastest and a big bore with aftermarket air filter and full exhaust pretty much fit that bill.

 

I don't have a specific HP goal or any specific goal, just rebuilding what some jackasses messed up and figure since I have to already have it torn down anyway I may as well put it back together bigger and better :-)

 

I will put it on the dyno when done and list what's been done to it in detail and post pics of the runs. I figure it will be fairly stout, but I'm not dumping lots of $$$ and time into it to get an extra 2-3 HP

How much HP do you expect from the planned mods ?

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